u/CorgiSplooting

Freezing temps that cause the lake to ice over here are rare in the PNW and winds are also not a factor so everyone here leaves their boats out on the lake in the open all year. Minn Kota, despite making parts for boats, doesn’t seem to know how to waterproof anything. My steering motor died yet again and fortunately I now keep spare steering motors on hand and it only takes a couple of hours to swap…. But it sucks to find out just as you find a rare sunny day in the fall here and want to take the boat out.

Anyone else in a similar situation and how to you protect your boat over the winter if you don’t dry dock it? (I don’t even have a trailer so dry docking just isn’t an option)

I figured it would look like ass but I love the feel. I realized when I was done it wasn’t going to stretch to fit right. I took the steering wheel off to install it but I didn’t put the airbag back on and I should have. Fortunately it came with plenty of thread to redo but it still just looks bad.

Two options: I’m thinking of buying some microsuede cloth that matches better and just using this one as a template. That or maybe buy a black steering wheel. I’d need to buy a black airbag too and those aren’t cheap but it should get me a new crest where the horse isn’t worn off.

I was watching a tech channel and they mentioned this site so I zoomed in to see how bad things are here. Yikes. I also never noticed (paid attention to…) cameras up on 74 where I like to go for a nice weekend drive…. Grrr…..

https://flocksurveillance.org

Valve on top of the tank. It was a PITA to get to and it’s encased in foam. I’ll do a write up later just in case someone else runs into this. I found very little info.

Not usually up this early so thought I’d try to make the most of it!

I front and rear camera feel like they’re zoomed and even after the calibration and stitching process it’s not perfect but very usable. There are no instructions so I think I just need to watch more YouTube tutorials. Anyway. Enjoying for not. The front camera is in the passenger side brake duct. I have the Boxster S center trim pieces on the way. We’ll see when I get them if I want to cut a big hole in the bumper for them. This seems to work even with the camera offset from the center by ~18”

Getting there. So far I’ve only had to drill out that hole in the door connector. It was already there I just had to enlarge it to .205” (slowly… .182 then .193 and finally .205.

Didn’t even make it to the gas station before someone ran up to ask about the color :-)

I don’t have the 360 cameras in yet.

As someone said on my previous thread when I ordered it the screen isn’t bright enough to use in a convertible when sun is at your back but to be fair nor is the factory nav on my C8… it is worse but still good outside those conditions. I got the rear camera in but not the front or sides. I don’t have a garage and the weather didn’t play very nice this weekend. Plus I’m old and work slow :-P. Last I’m still not sure what to do with the front camera. Does it need to be centered because there’s nowhere to mount it in the center of the Boxster.

Oh and OMG the rats nest that lives behind this now is shameful.

I know they will be a PITA but I have a fair bit of aftermarket install experience in my cars over the years. I already put an android based head unit with backup camera in Boxy so the wiring for that is done. I’m really looking for tips on the mirror cameras.

My thought is get a guide string or wire in first then cut the camera wires and stagger them to make the profile small and pull it through. Wire pulling lubricant or will that just make a mess. Any tips for getting the initial guide wire in?

360 camera calibration mats are also on the way.

Is there a canbus to tap into or anything useful to get from it? Rear camera trigger is based on the brake light so I don’t see this one being any different…

New fuel tank level sender came in and has an extra nipple. Do I just leave it capped or did they send the wrong part?

My shim + CA glue + JB weld + zip tie fix is holding so I can wait…. I don’t want to wait but if it’s the wrong part I will.

Well if this wasn’t the cause of my evap leak this definitely made it worse. Now how to find a replacement. Called the local Porsche dealer and left a message. I’m guessing new would be an arm and a leg.

So of course I had AI look at it. It says there are no metal indicators for IMS bearing failures. Also mine was replaced. Also no metal indicators for bore score though I’m surprised it would say that it could be true I was just assuming oil would be a good way to track bore score.

Its hypothesis is that the old owner was taking the car to a quick lube shop like Jiffy Lube for oil changes. It suggests they don’t usually carry 0w-40 but they do carry 0w-20 and that’s probably what they used. After decades of horror stories and investigative reports on how bad lube shops are I can completely believe that. As for not carrying 0w-40…. No idea but seems plausible. On top of that the previous owner was probably running the oil too long between changes. If they’re going to Jiffy Lube I believe this too. Its suggestion is to do another oil change in 2-3k miles and see if the metals go back down to normal levels. Assuming they do I’m good.

What do people here think? Honestly I’ve never done oil analysis before. It was a thing back in my BMW days but I never did it…. I should have with my v10 M6 but that crapped out before my first oil change…. I figured it was good insurance with this car and for $40 I’m going to keep doing it. Probably do it on my C8 too from now on though those don’t have known engine issues.

Ok exhaust valve is a momentary button but the exhaust valve solenoid needs 12v constant to close so the button can’t be wired up to it directly. It needs a latching relay. I got a two pack of these on Amazon for $10 I think. Black wire is ground and yellow wire is the same accessory wire I used for the radio. I just tapped off that. The two white wires go to the button and they don’t matter since it me just a momentary switch and you’re just completing the circuit. Just note the pins they’re connected to on the back of the button. Now the relay can switch AC or DC and since I’m using 12v to power the relay I’m just piggy backing off that with the red wire to the input of the switched side of the relay. The orange wire runs all the way to solenoid in the engine compartment. Carrying 12v to either open or close the exhaust valves.

I’ll post a picture of the wiring in a comment as I can mix the video and an image here but yay! It works! I don’t know how to get the LED to light though. ChatGPT says there’s an IC board inside and it couldn’t find wiring for it online. I’d love to get it working if I could but this works and is so much better than the wireless fob controls (they work just fine but in a convertible I park with the top down all the time on I don’t like easily grabable things.

Also I had to install it upside down. No room on the right side and I didn’t want to try extending the factory wires to relocate any of those buttons. So ya, not perfect but I’m extremely happy here.

Ignore the tablet radio… it’s on my list to replace (PCCM+ clone with 360 cameras!)

Sorry I only have my iPhone for this. The microphone really doesn’t do justice to how much louder it is. I will say I don’t like the sound just off idle but once the revs are up there it sounds great which is why I really tried to keep the revs up in these videos.

Closed course and private roads and all that.

Install tips:

1. PB blaster the night before really helped with the bolts but I should have sprayed the pipe joints too. MAP gas heating helped but in the end I had to cut one clamp off with a grinder.

2. Get new clamps. Worth the extra money

3. Get your biggest hammer (I used my one handed sledge

4. Flare the pipe from the muffler a tiny bit to get the new valved pipes started.

5. Use ratchet straps in strategic places to pull the valved pipes into position for the clamps.

6. Electrical and vacuum was easy.

Pretty quick shipping across the pond. I should be able to install these this weekend. If I had a garage I’d do it tonight but alas I don’t.

I don’t understand why back in this era car manufacturers thought performance car buyers wanted to be quiet. Well, easy fix.