u/DavidAg02

TLDR; Neither Pure Bead or Wax & Dry+ is particularly great on their own, but together, they work really really well. Want more details? Read on...

I'll admit... I'm a big fan of Turtle Wax. I've been a detailing enthusiast for a very long time, and their original Hard Shell Paste Wax was the first detailing product I ever bought with my own money (back in the 90's!), so the brand has a special place in my heart. Because of that, I make it a point to try their new products when they come out.

PURE BEAD: I bought it the week it came out and have used almost an entire bottle. I'll keep the review short... it's good but not great. Everything you hear about the lack of slickness is true. On a scale of 1-10, I'd give it a 4 for slickness. Pretty much everything else about it is good though... beading, self cleaning and application are all great. It's just really hard to get over the lack of slickness, and it's that reason that I don't think I'll buy it again. If only there was a product you could easily apply on top of it for slickness....

WAX & DRY+: There are 2 things that make this product special. First, it can be applied 3 different ways (on dry paint, on wet paint, spray and rinse). All 3 are extremely easy, with only the slightest risk of streaking when applied on dry paint. Second, the waxy glow... us older detailers just love it, and this is the easiest product I've ever used that achieves that look. Beading is solid, longevity is meh but the price is almost too good to be true. It's also very slick after application.

So... where one is weak, the other is strong... and when you combine the 2, you get something really amazing. Beading and self cleaning that, to my eye, are surprisingly close to some of the ceramic coatings I've tried, the ability to easily top it up for very little time and money, great slickness under the towel and a beautiful waxy glow.

The Method: I've tested both of these products extensively on their own, and layered on top of each other. Like I said, on their own, neither is truly great. I achieved the best results by applying Pure Bead on clean, dry paint and then immediately applying Wax & Dry+ on top of it. I maintain the layer of Wax & Dry+ with a once a month wet (drying aid) or spray and rinse application.

The pictures show the results of that method on clean, but otherwise unprepared paint. It's a rental car, so the paint is in terrible condition, but even with those circumstances this product combination produced great results.

Here's the video if you want to see the process and the results:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AJ7Fgb9R1v4

As always, no product links and my channel is not monetized. I'm just doing this for fun and my own education.

If you've tried these products, what did you think of them? Has anyone else combined the 2 like I have?

TLDR; I've been experimenting with a homemade citric acid-based water spot remover spray. For this round, I wanted to see if it would harm some basic spray sealants. The good news, is that even with extended dwell times, it has very little effect on the sealants I tested.

Want more details? Here you go...

My first version of this was just citric acid and water, and it was extremely effective at removing water spots. If you missed that post, it's here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Detailing/comments/1wn13c3/i_made_my_own_water_spot_remover_for_only_010/

Testing Progress: I've been experimenting with adding small amounts of rinseless wash, in an attempt to make a KCx Fse like acidic detail spray. I'm not ready to talk too much about that right now, but it's proving to be a fun experiment.

One of my concerns from the beginning was that this highly acidic concoction of mine (pH 1.5-2) might be harmful to existing sealants and coatings, so that is what this round of testing is focused on.

My Method: I'm doing a very in-depth test of 2 off the shelf spray sealants (Turtle Wax Pure Bead and Wax and Dry Plus), so I decided to use those for this test since I'm now extremely familiar with their hydrophobics and durability. Using a rental car with completely unprepped paint, I applied a single layer of Pure Bead on one door, and on the adjacent door, a layer of Pure Bead followed up with a layer of Wax and Dry Plus. Neither product was given any significant amount of cure time (less than an hour). I then conducted the test in 3 parts:

1. The 1% citric acid solution was sprayed several times around the already wet door handle of each door and was allowed to dwell for 3 minutes, then rinsed off. No effect on the hydrophobics on either door was observed.
2. The same area on each door was dried with a towel then resprayed with the solution and allowed to dwell for another 3 minutes, then rinsed off. Again, no effect on the hydrophobics on either door was observed.
3. The same area on both doors was sprayed again, then agitated with a towel and allowed to dwell for 3 minutes (now 9 minutes of total exposure), and then rinsed. No effect was noticed on the Pure Bead side, while the Pure Bead with Wax and Dry Plus experienced a very minor drop in hydrophobics.

My Conclusion: Based on this limited test with two spray sealants, 1% citric acid showed minimal impact on hydrophobic performance, even with extended dwell times, while still providing the ability to remove water spots and mineral contamination.

Here's the video if you want to see the process and the results:

https://youtu.be/j4CNtZNbPnM?si=jGXtfNY_ZoiGSThS

As always, no product links and my channel is not monetized. I'm just doing this for fun and my own education.

If you decide to try this out, remember that it's still an acid. Use common sense. Don't do this on a hot car or in direct sunlight. Monitor it closely so it doesn't dry. Use proper PPE.

My future plans are to continue this experiment by adding rinseless wash, with the goal of creating an acidic detail spray. Additionally, I'll be adding it to some pH neutral car soap to try and make my own acidic soap. I'm not ready to talk about those results just yet, but I should have something in the next few weeks.

TLDR; I made a very simple water spot remover using citric acid powder and distilled water. It costs roughly $0.10 per bottle, and I was honestly surprised by how well it worked.

Want more details? Here you go...

I've been using a few different acidic detailing products lately (mostly Koch Chemie Fse and CarPro Descale), particularly products designed to remove mineral deposits and water spots. The commercial products work really well, but they tend to be pretty expensive.

So, I decided to experiment with making my own water spot remover, which could hopefully evolve into an acidic detail spray (like Fse) or even a ceramic coating decon product (like Descale).

The start, I did some research, and I discovered that citric acid is the acid used in Descale and many other acidic car shampoos. Citric acid is a mild organic acid that is available at most grocery stores, Walmart, etc. It's cheap, and dissolves completely in water.

I started with a very conservative 1% citric acid solution and tested it on actual water spots and mineral buildup to see what it could do.

The results are pretty surprising. It is as effective as every other acidic detailing product I've ever used. The pictures show the results pretty clearly, but there is a lot more details in the video on the research I did, why I chose those ingredients, how I applied it, etc.

Here's the video if you want to see the process and the results:

https://youtu.be/dbfomREyOnA?is=VTVeEHStY5oDjkFS

As always, no product links and my channel is not monetized. I'm just doing this for fun and my own education.

If you decide to try this out, remember that it's still an acid. Use common sense. Don't do this on a hot car or in direct sunlight. Monitor it closely so it doesn't dry. Use proper PPE.

My future plans for this are to test its ability to decontaminate a clogged coating (open to ideas on how I actually do that), and to try adding something like a rinseless wash to the mix so that it can be used as a mildly acidic detail spray.

TLDR; Once a year, during a regular wash, I will deep clean the glass using P21S Polishing Soap and a synthetic clay sponge (or towel). I then seal the glass with 2 layers of a spray on, rinse off sealant. That protection is maintained throughout the year with a few more sprays during my maintenance washes.

Want more details? Here you go...

I used Rain-X like it was a religion for over a decade. Even by today's standards, it's still a very respectable product. It does what it says it's going to do for a very reasonable price, and it lasts a decent amount of time. My biggest complaint about it has always been the application. It's easy enough to wipe on, but the wipe off process can be frustrating. I can't tell you how many times I've thought I buffed it all off, only to get back into the car and see streaks or haze. I just dealt with it for years because I liked everything else about it.

But for the past few years I've been using a different form of glass protection, and now, I've used it long enough to have complete confidence in sharing it with you all...

The Process: I do this once a year. After washing the glass, I will do 1 or 2 passes with P21S Polishing Soap. It's a mildly abrasive soap that feels a lot like those pumice-soaps that you use to clean really greasy/dirty hands (i.e.: Fast Orange). It's marketed for use on metal, but I've found it works great on glass. No, you're not actually polishing the glass when you do this, but it is very effective for deep cleaning and removing existing sealants. Obviously, keep it away from paint/trim/etc. After that, I apply 2 coats of my favorite (affordable) spray on rinse off sealant - Nanoskin Supercharger. I think the brand of sealant you use here is irrelevant (Wet Coat/Quick Beads/etc.), the process is still the same. That becomes your base layer. After that, you can maintain that sealant year round with a few additional sprays during your regular wash process.

The Pros: Quick, cheap and effective. This can all be done during your normal wash process so you're not needing to set aside much extra time to do this. You're not using any extra towels or anything that you'll have to wash later on. No wiping, buffing, streaking, smearing, etc. And... it's cheap... at least with the products I use. Also, I've never experienced any wiper chatter.

The Cons: Is this the most hydrophobic protection you can possibly put on your glass? Absolutely not. There's better stuff out there for sure and I'm not going to lie about that. However, I'd say it's 85-90% as good as the best glass sealants I've ever used. If you're really particular about having THE BEST hydrophobics and longevity, you could always just take the deep cleaning part of this method and then apply whatever glass sealant you choose later on.

Here's the video if you want to see this process in action, including before/during/after results: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jXyUyFR4-iA

As always, no product links and my channel is not monetized. I'm just doing this for fun and my own education.

If you decide to try this, or if you have your own similar method, please tell me what you think of it. I kind of came up with this on my own after discovering a few off-label uses for the P21S, but I'm sure I'm not the only one doing this. Hope this was helpful!

TLDR; Once a year, during a regular wash, I will deep clean the glass using P21S Polishing Soap and synthetic clay sponge. I then seal the glass with 2 layers of a spray on, rinse off sealant. That protection is maintained throughout the year with a few more sprays during my maintenance wash.

Want more details? Here you go...

I used Rain-X like it was a religion for over a decade. Even by today's standards, it's still a very respectable product. It does what it says it's going to do for a very reasonable price, and it lasts a decent amount of time. My biggest complaint about it has always been the application. It's easy enough to wipe on, but the wipe off process can be frustrating. I can't tell you how many times I've thought I buffed it all off, only to get back into the car and see streaks or haze. I just dealt with it for years because I liked everything else about it.

But for the past few years I've been using a different form of glass protection, and now, I've used it long enough to have complete confidence in sharing it with you all...

The Process: I do this once a year. After washing the glass, I will do 1 or 2 passes with P21S Polishing Soap. It's a mildly abrasive soap that feels a lot like those pumice-soaps that you use to clean really greasy/dirty hands (i.e.: Fast Orange). It's marketed for use on metal, but I've found it works great on glass. No, you're not actually polishing the glass when you do this, but it is very effective for deep cleaning and removing existing sealants. Obviously, keep it away from paint/trim/etc. After that, I apply 2 coats of my favorite (affordable) spray on rinse off sealant - Nanoskin Supercharger. I think the brand of sealant you use here is irrelevant (Wet Coat/Quick Beads/etc.), the process is still the same. That becomes your base layer. After that, you can maintain that sealant year round with a few additional sprays during your regular wash process.

The Pros: Quick, cheap and effective. This can all be done during your normal wash process so you're not needing to set aside much extra time to do this. You're not using any extra towels or anything that you'll have to wash later on. No wiping, buffing, streaking, smearing, etc. And... it's cheap... at least with the products I use. Also, I've never experienced any wiper chatter.

The Cons: Is this the most hydrophobic protection you can possibly put on your glass? Absolutely not. There's better stuff out there for sure and I'm not going to lie about that. However, I'd say it's 85-90% as good as the best glass sealants I've ever used. If you're really particular about having THE BEST hydrophobics and longevity, you could always just take the deep cleaning part of this method and then apply whatever glass sealant you choose later on.

Here's the video if you want to see this process in action, including before/during/after results: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jXyUyFR4-iA

As always, no product links and my channel is not monetized. I'm just doing this for fun and my own education.

If you decide to try this, or if you have your own similar method, please tell me what you think of it. I kind of came up with this on my own after discovering a few off-label uses for the P21S, but I'm sure I'm not the only one doing this. Hope this was helpful!

Two weeks ago I set out to test whether or not the grabby nature of TW Pure Bead actually effects anything other than how it feels when you run a towel across it.

You can find my writeup and link to the video here: https://www.reddit.com/r/AutoDetailing/comments/1v2288x/does_slickness_really_matter_my_initial/

In short, it's a very easy product to apply, beads like crazy, but it does leave the surface feeling slightly "grabby" as most reviewers have noted.

I chose to test it on the wheels of my 2024 VW Golf R, which suffers from incredibly dusty brakes and wheels that will get quickly caked with brake dust if left unprotected. I'm testing it against a product that I know and love, Cerakote Wheel Sealant, which unlike Pure Bead, leaves the surface super slick.

The Results After 2 Weeks: I've driven the car just over 600 miles in the past 2 weeks, and so far, the TW is impressing me. It actually seems to have accumulated less dirt and grime than the Cerakote, and the grabby feeling is completely undetectable while washing the wheel. What impressed me the most, was how easy it was to dry the wheels that had the Pure Bead on them. I was able to get the wheel face almost completely dry with my blower in under 30 seconds. Even though the surface it creates is more slick, the wheels with the Cerakote took longer to dry, which is exactly the opposite of what you would expect.

Water Behavior: After washing all wheels with my usual mix of Meguiar's Shampoo Plus and Superior Products Road Warrior, neither product is beading like it did when it was brand new. I think this has more to do with the heat of the summer (100F+ almost every day where I live) than the products I used. With that being said, both products are still there and protecting the surfaces I applied them to.

Further Testing: I'm not changing anything for now, and will continue to drive the car under my normal conditions. I'll make another follow up once I start to see serious degradation of the Pure Bead. Additionally, I have applied it to my unprepped windshield and will be comparing it to good old RainX as a glass coating. I love RainX but Pure Bead is significantly easier to apply.

Here's the video which includes testing the levels of dirt that have accumulated, washing, rinsing and drying the wheels, along with a deep dive into my wheel washing process and tools: https://youtu.be/po0Rw42TAA0

As always, no product links and my channel is not monetized. I'm just doing this for fun and my own education.

Lastly, if you've used Pure Bead, how are you liking it? If you haven't bought it, what is holding you back? Are there any other aspects and uses of it that you would like to see tested?

Two weeks ago I set out to test whether or not the grabby nature of TW Pure Bead actually effects anything other than how it feels when you run a towel across it.

You can find my writeup and link to the video here: https://www.reddit.com/r/AutoDetailing/comments/1v2288x/does_slickness_really_matter_my_initial/

In short, it's a very easy product to apply, beads like crazy, but it does leave the surface feeling slightly "grabby" as most reviewers have noted.

I chose to test it on the wheels of my 2024 VW Golf R, which suffers from incredibly dusty brakes and wheels that will get quickly caked with brake dust if left unprotected. I'm testing it against a product that I know and love, Cerakote Wheel Sealant, which unlike Pure Bead, leaves the surface super slick.

The Results After 2 Weeks: I've driven the car just over 600 miles in the past 2 weeks, and so far, the TW is impressing me. It actually seems to have accumulated less dirt and grime than the Cerakote, and the grabby feeling is completely undetectable while washing the wheel. What impressed me the most, was how easy it was to dry the wheels that had the Pure Bead on them. I was able to get the wheel face almost completely dry with my blower in under 30 seconds. Even though the surface it creates is more slick, the wheels with the Cerakote took longer to dry, which is exactly the opposite of what you would expect.

Water Behavior: After washing all wheels with my usual mix of Meguiar's Shampoo Plus and Superior Products Road Warrior, neither product is beading like it did when it was brand new. I think this has more to do with the heat of the summer (100F+ almost every day where I live) than the products I used. With that being said, both products are still there and protecting the surfaces I applied them to.

Further Testing: I'm not changing anything for now, and will continue to drive the car under my normal conditions. I'll make another follow up once I start to see serious degradation of the Pure Bead. Additionally, I have applied it to my unprepped windshield and will be comparing it to good old RainX as a glass coating. I love RainX but Pure Bead is significantly easier to apply.

Here's the video which includes testing the levels of dirt that have accumulated, washing, rinsing and drying the wheels, along with a deep dive into my wheel washing process and tools: https://youtu.be/po0Rw42TAA0

As always, no product links and my channel is not monetized. I'm just doing this for fun and my own education.

Lastly, if you've used Pure Bead, how are you liking it? If you haven't bought it, what is holding you back? Are there any other aspects and uses of it that you would like to see tested?

Ok... by now I'm sure most of us have seen a few of the videos on Turtle Wax Pure Bead. I'm sure you've heard about how easy it is to apply, it's great hydrophobics and it's lack of slickness.

So, should you buy it? That's what I'm hoping to help answer.

TLDR; It's great on every household surface I've tried it on... I just don't know if I love it on the car.

Want more details? Read on...

I ordered my bottle of Pure Bead as soon as it became available. I immediately applied it to a section of my wife's SUV, and will be conducting a long term test on it. In the meantime, a bunch of review videos have come out on it, and they all pretty much say the same thing... it's NOT that slick.

Well, here's my take on it: I've used it on so many surfaces around my house that I've actually forgotten everything I've applied it to. I put it on my outdoor gas grill, some outdoor furniture, stainless steel appliances, stone countertops, my laptop, etc. It's hard not to love this product because of how easy it is to apply. The hydrophobics are no joke. Water beads up, rolls off, and carries a lot of dirt and debris with it. In the case of my outdoor stuff, I can see that those surfaces are cleaner after a hard rain. My appliances and countertops wipe clean with ease. I think this stuff is awesome on metal and plastic. In the case of stuff like my grill, it seems to hold up to heat really well.

The downside: Yeah, it's not slick. That's not to say it's un-slick. If I was ranking it on a scale of 1-10, it would be a 4 or a 5. It's more slick than bare paint, but if you're used to products that create an extremely slick surface, then it would be very easy to think that Pure Bead is not slick or even grabby. The sad part is that even though this product excels in other categories, if you're someone that likes to touch your car and you value that slick feeling under the towel, then you may not want to buy this for use on your car.

How much does slickness matter? That's what I'm going to try to test over the next month. I applied Pure Bead on 2 wheels, and on the other 2 wheels I applied Cerakote Wheel Sealant, which is a product I am extremely familiar with. Cerakote is very slick after application, lasts 2-3 months, is very easy to apply and has very noticeable self cleaning properties. So my goal is to see if greater slickness translates to a cleaner surface and/or a surface that is easier to keep clean. I figured the wheels would be one of the best places to test this. I'll be documenting how much the dirt and brake dust accumulates on the wheels and how easy it is to clean them off during the wash process. I expect the whole test to take about a month, so please stay tuned for the update.

In the meantime, here's the video I made showing the application process and my thoughts on the application and overall feel of Pure Bead: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V7Jyn6k-A5Y

As always, no product links and my channel is not monetized. I'm just doing this for fun and my own education.

So, if you've used Pure Bead, what are your thoughts on it so far? What do you think of the slickness (or lack of) that it creates? Is that a deal breaker for you or are the benefits enough to outweigh that?

We’ve all seen the videos where a foam cannon and a "magic" chemical pre-wash make the car almost instantly cleaner and ready for a safe contact wash. To me, it's never been completely clear how much of that is the chemical doing the work versus the power of the pressure washer. My theory is that the pressure washer does a lot more of the cleaning than we assume, and I wanted to see how Bilt Hamber Touch-Less actually performed without that mechanical help from the high pressure water.

My method: I ran a test using my Neburia V2 electric foamer to apply Touch-Less diluted to a 1% PIR, and then rinsed with approximately 60 psi garden hose pressure after a dwell time of 3 minutes.

My takeaway: Touch-Less is legitimately great at loosening and removing heavy dirt and grit on it's own (which is the part I care about most). That said, it’s not a miracle worker. It’s definitely less effective at tackling that bonded road film and those stubborn, dirty rain spots without the pressure washer to help it out. Regardless, I feel good about removing the heavy stuff before touching the paint.

The reality: It’s a solid product and is still the best dedicated pre-wash that I have used, but I think the "Touch-Less" marketing sets some unrealistic expectations for people who aren't using high-pressure equipment. I may redo this test in a few weeks with a 2% PIR to see if that makes any difference in the road film removal.

If you want to see the test and results in video form, you can find it here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zrfyuEM0Bzw

As always, no product links and my channel is not monetized. I'm just doing this for fun and my own education.

Lastly, has anyone found a sweet spot for PIR dilution when using a garden hose instead of a pressure washer? I'll be doing that 2% test next time the car is dirty enough to justify it.

I was downtown today for the Coffee and Cars / Gumball 3000 event and happened to notice this person picking up trash along the banks of Buffalo Bayou. I'm assuming this is just a nice person, doing something good for the city and the environment. Even if I'm wrong and this is some kind of paid job... Thank you for doing this.

I saw all kinds of inconsiderate people today just leaving their trash lying around for someone else to deal with... It was really refreshing to look over the side of the bridge and see this.

I just hit the 13-month mark with Meguiar’s M888 Beyond Ceramic on my daily driven 2024 VW Golf R. Being in the Houston area, this coating has lived through plenty of heat, UV exposure, rain and humidity, but none of the salted roads or harsh winter conditions found elsewhere. I wanted to share the results of how it's holding up after 13 months of daily driving and 54 washes (all done by me!).

My Maintenance Routine: Since application, this coating has been washed exactly 54 times.

• 26 Rinseless Washes using ONR
• 28 Foam-Rinse-Foam Washes: Bilt Hamber Touchless Pre-Wash, Meguiar's Shampoo Plus in Bucket and Foaming Sprayer, multiple mitts/towels
• I have not done any kind of iron removal or other kind of physical or chemical decontamination during this time. Only maintenance washing. No "toppers" or anything that would boost the performance has been applied.

My Observations:

• Self-Cleaning Ability: This was a benefit that I totally did not anticipate when I applied this. The self-cleaning properties are obvious in person and on video; road film, bird bombs and light dust simply don't want to stick, making maintenance significantly easier. Driving through a hard rain will clean the car to about 80%.
• Coating Degradation: After 13 months, the coating is showing no signs of degradation, even on the lower panels. The water beading is still tight. Gloss and slickness are still uniform across the entire car. Creating a sheet of water with the hose will get panels mostly dry.
• Variables: It’s worth noting that this performance could be a result of the strict maintenance routine or simply the environment I live in, lacking salted roads and winter conditions.

The Verdict: Before selecting and applying this coating, I watched as many videos as I could find on it. Auto Detailing Podcast (Jimbo) and Apex Auto Detailing channels both have deep dive videos that cover the application and torture/chemical resistance testing. It did extremely well in those videos. What they didn't cover was real world durability. I can confidently say that after 13 months, in my environment with my maintenance routine, this coating is an absolute winner. Would I buy it again? 100% Yes.

It Can't Be Perfect, Right? The only real negative is that it didn't do well on glass. It works great on paint, trim, and plastics, but not on glass. It just wouldn't cure to the glass evenly, so I quickly removed it. So you'll need a separate glass coating or sealant for that. It's covered in other people's videos, but the application isn't super simple. It's thick and a bit tacky when wiping off. It has a very long working time (10-15 minutes) so there's no real risk of high spots though, assuming you take your time and don't rush. If you've ever applied an old school wax (think Collinite 845), the application and wipe off feels a lot like that.

Here's the video I made which shows water behavior both before and after washing, lots of rinsing, a drying tip and a special bonus (a demo of the Neburia V2 Foaming Sprayer with 1% Bilt Hamber Touchless): https://youtu.be/QPKtCdp2yfk?si=gXsuZehTQjcHb_7G

So, what should I do with this coating now? I'm really tempted to keep doing what I've been doing since it's working so well.

As always, no product links and my channel is not monetized. I'm just doing this for fun and my own education.

I just hit the 13-month mark with Meguiar’s M888 Beyond Ceramic on my daily driven 2024 VW Golf R. Being in the Houston area, this coating has lived through plenty of heat, UV exposure, rain and humidity, but none of the salted roads or harsh winter conditions found elsewhere. I wanted to share the results of how it's holding up after 13 months of daily driving and 54 washes (all done by me!).

My Maintenance Routine: Since application, this coating has been washed exactly 54 times.

• 26 Rinseless Washes using ONR
• 28 Foam-Rinse-Foam Washes: Bilt Hamber Touchless Pre-Wash, Meguiar's Shampoo Plus in Bucket and Foaming Sprayer, multiple mitts/towels
• I have not done any kind of iron removal or other kind of physical or chemical decontamination during this time. Only maintenance washing. No "toppers" or anything that would boost the performance has been applied.

My Observations:

• Self-Cleaning Ability: This was a benefit that I totally did not anticipate when I applied this. The self-cleaning properties are obvious in person and on video; road film, bird bombs and light dust simply don't want to stick, making maintenance significantly easier. Driving through a hard rain will clean the car to about 80%.
• Coating Degradation: After 13 months, the coating is showing no signs of degradation, even on the lower panels. The water beading is still tight. Gloss and slickness are still uniform across the entire car. Creating a sheet of water with the hose will get panels mostly dry.
• Variables: It’s worth noting that this performance could be a result of the strict maintenance routine or simply the environment I live in, lacking salted roads and winter conditions.

The Verdict: Before selecting and applying this coating, I watched as many videos as I could find on it. Auto Detailing Podcast (Jimbo) and Apex Auto Detailing channels both have deep dive videos that cover the application and torture/chemical resistance testing. It did extremely well in those videos. What they didn't cover was real world durability. I can confidently say that after 13 months, in my environment with my maintenance routine, this coating is an absolute winner. Would I buy it again? 100% Yes.

It Can't Be Perfect, Right? The only real negative is that it didn't do well on glass. It works great on paint, trim, and plastics, but not on glass. It just wouldn't cure to the glass evenly, so I quickly removed it. So you'll need a separate glass coating or sealant for that. It's covered in other people's videos, but the application isn't super simple. It's thick and a bit tacky when wiping off. It has a very long working time (10-15 minutes) so there's no real risk of high spots though, assuming you take your time and don't rush. If you've ever applied an old school wax (think Collinite 845), the application and wipe off feels a lot like that.

Here's the video I made which shows water behavior both before and after washing, lots of rinsing, a drying tip and a special bonus (a demo of the Neburia V2 Foaming Sprayer with 1% Bilt Hamber Touchless): https://youtu.be/QPKtCdp2yfk?si=gXsuZehTQjcHb_7G

So, what should I do with this coating now? I'm really tempted to keep doing what I've been doing since it's working so well.

As always, no product links and my channel is not monetized. I'm just doing this for fun and my own education.