After using a Permatex repair kit to try fixing a chip in my car's windshield, the chip and cracks are definitely more visible afterwards.
Does anyone know why that would happen and if anything can be done from here? I care more about keeping the cracks from spreading than I do about the look of the chip, but it seems like the normal result is a less visible chip.
I am considering trading a family member for their 2023 John Cooper Works Mini Cooper Countryman.
I am not much of a car person, so looking through the manual for what type of fuel it uses I'm slightly confused by this.
I can't imagine that there's anything potentially wrong with using the "minimum fuel grade" rather than the recommended. But it lists both grade 87 and 91. So which is the right fuel?
Thanks :)
I was at GalaxyCon Raleigh this past weekend and had a great time as usual. The vendor Planet Shelly was selling a lot of acrylic standees and keychains from different fandoms. And I saw that they had some old limited edition standees from Helluva Boss and Hazbin Hotel, these were collections of standees that were produced in limited number and never again.
So, seeing that they weren't terribly expensive and being a fan, I bought a couple from them. When I looked at them later and opened them...I found that the packaging was not correct (very generic plastic bag packaging) and the printing on what I was given was off center.
I guess they weren't technically advertised as "official merchandise", but the art was exactly the same and it's clear that the standees were supposed to be just like the official ones.
Is there any way to report this? Is there a point? Does it really matter?
I've had one of the newer style bronze bracelets on my Zelos Aurora since it came out and it's a great bracelet... except for the micro-adjust. For that alone I mostly leave it on the rubber strap.
Because the adjust button is on the outside of the bracelet, the button gets pressed anytime I set my arm down and suddenly the bracelet is too big.
Is it just me 😂?
I'm trying to get some colors on some things to be as accurate as I can, and I thought it was a joyous thing to find that old mil-spec documents had specified colors like Dark Brown 382 or Khaki 384....but I cannot for the life of me figure out what these codes are actually referencing. It's not Pantone or Hex Code.
Does anybody know what these numbers mean or what color catalog they could be referencing?
I'm going to be ordering some fabric custom printed with desert night camo to make some things with (the actual fabric in the photos is not the correct type), so I had these samples printed with two different shades.
The lighter shade is taken from a vector image that I acquired from Adobe and does look like many pictures of DNC that I've seen.
The darker one is the same vector, except that I replaced the colors with the DNC mil-spec dark green 425 (MIL-C-44034). I've also seen photos of DNC looking darker. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Not that it's an effective camouflage for anything, but what is the best/correct shade for DNC?
I am wanting to get some codura, hypalon, or something similar custom printed with dazzle camo to make some gear.
Does anyone have recommendations for a good source/service?
I got a button up shirt that I like and I went to add darts to it as I do with most of my shirts.
Then I found that the box pleat it has doesn't work well with darts, they make that extra fabric really bunch up.
Is there anyway to remove the box pleat so that I can make the shirt fit me?
I booked an MSC cruise out of Galveston and booked my flights around this page on MSC's website that says transfer services could be reserved there.
Then after having to contact support to figure out where to even reserve transfer services, I see on the different website that no U.S. ports are offered.
So I contacted support again and they said they don't offer transfer services there.
Does anyone know if MSC offers that or not?