u/DonutOne

https://preview.redd.it/axeq56i52b6h1.jpg?width=2135&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6301a52219d53c2d6edaee378c8889221ae63727

I have this new faceplate that connects the control panel to a stove/range main cpu. The faceplate came with this broken connector. There is still proper continuity. The metallic parts of the connector seem fine. Is the flex connection to the connector electrically and mechanically robust still? Meaning, can I just install this as is or just glue the plastic back in place and proceed with assembly? Or was the plastic a key part of the crimp?

https://preview.redd.it/3shi41jqgd1h1.jpg?width=1431&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cfb1d5e5cf6c716a04a771c4bbaba7a004179376

See above... I assume the "R3-Horza Horizon 5-Official2" is a preset for that specific game.

But: I have Forza Horizon 4, and I found that in some dropdown menu that pops up. See below. However, selecting it doesn't replace the ""R3-Horza Horizon 5-Official2" preset? What does the checkbox for "Forza Horizon 4" do?

https://preview.redd.it/rr5migvxgd1h1.jpg?width=1435&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fa5b88cc5bb480dc9d252b5d2772d35f21cf4b08

https://preview.redd.it/7r3yy3z90txg1.jpg?width=1218&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7f30dce40b2e3aba1be9f83bd059976e1674f0e0

I am rebuilding a 1950's demagnetizer. This is a 120V AC powered device in a bakelite box. Note that I am not selling the thing, this is for my own personal use. I might rebuild another for a trusted friend, but that is it.

This demagnetizer charges a capacitor to about 650VDC. When the user desires, they push a momentary button to send the voltage ringing to zero through a solenoid, to demagnetize whatever is nearby. So I think common practice was to leave this thing fully charged on one's desk until needed. Needless to say, I leave it unplugged and discharged!

As designed, it has no fuse, and no chassis ground. My unit has an non-polarized plug and the ribbed wire goes to what I would consider the hot side of the circuit (at the 220 resistor). The unit components are connected in a "point to point" manner like an antique radio, there is no PCB.

The bakelite box has a metal lamp housing and metal switch that protrude to the outside of the box. These are floating and are not grounded in any manner.

I'm considering rebuilding the device and replacing the ancient selenium diodes with modern ones. While I'm in there, I was considering maybe making some attempts to improve the device's safety.

Here are the mods I am considering.

1. Adding a 1A slow fuse. I'd use a new polarized power cord and put the fuse on the hot side and supply the positive/top side of the circuit with it.
2. I could add a 3 prong cord and connect the metal switch and lamp housing to the ground. This would be relatively hard to accomplish as the devices do not have any ground lugs and there is no metal chassis.
3. Maybe add a 1M bleed resistor to discharge the big capacitor when the unit is unplugged. This does discharge fairly quickly through the old capacitors now but might be a good idea.
4. Add a lamp to indicate when the device was powered.

Do I have these ideas listed in the right order of importance?

Is there anything else I could/should do, outside of rebuilding the whole device in a different chassis?