u/Duranture

Materials:

2x 8' steel slotted angle (frame) + 1x 4' section (assorted top board bracket material)

1x sheet of MDF board

Paint on truck bed liner (several days drying required, fumes are killer)

8' 1"x1/4" steel flat bar (front supports)

6' Black piano hinge

Assorted 5/16" hardware

Stick on padding for top of hinged board support brackets

Tools:

Drill and bits for steel (cutting fluid recommended)

Impact driver with basic sockets + E torx bits for seat mount bolts

Basic wrenches (one set being ratcheting was invaluable)

Ratchet with extensions

Phillips head screwdriver (piano hinge)

Skill Saw or better (band or jig saw would've helped a lot)

Angle grinder with cutoff wheel and flap disc

Bench vise and hammer (front support strut shaping)

Tape measure, scale, yard stick, and speed square

{Insert whatever I'm forgetting here}

Measuring and design skills (if this gets enough traction I'll post measurements)

The goal of this project was to get away from the DIY wood frame builds easily found online, using a metal frame, while avoiding the expense of the premade kits

THIS DESIGN IS MEANT TO BE BUILT UPON AND IMPROVED.

The flip up driver side is design version 1.5 for me, 1.0 being the bolted down passenger side deck, which has the same frame construction as shown on driver side.

The front to back board length is intentionally shorter than some designs, this allows the seats to be set fully back and reclined, and some easy access behind seat floor storage.

Want to add a few more deck support brackets still.

Pic I didn't get is the front supports, the 1"x1/4” flat bar, front end is single hole drilled and goes between the floor and front seat rear mount bracket, using original bolts. I recommend getting the rest of the frame in and using some type of wire to model the bends the flat bar needs. Finished shape is roughly like a prybar.

If possible, assemble frame with decks before install, getting under the rear to attach the decks to their brackets with the frame installed was near impossible.

This can be a 1-1.5 day project, excluding drying time.

Both sides independently can hold my 225lbs with nearly no flex.

As it is, both sides have limited side and front access to the storage.

Converting passenger side to flip top is the next step.

Possible future upgrades:

Front and side walls to enclosed storage area.

Latches (possibly locking).

Deck material change if MDF doesn't hold up over time.

Further frame clean up and finishing, possibly paint it.

Some type of covering, carpeting... rubber... not sure yet.

Please excuse formatting and mistakes, on mobile.

Learning and working with flux core (pic) and stick.

Making what is seemingly a simple project, flag pole mount, the tube is 1/8 wall and cut at a 55 degree angle, facing 1/8 plate. Cut tube mating surface is constantly varying thickness all the way around caused by the angle.

Should I be setting up to weld the thinnest area? Maybe stopping and adjusting amperage as I go?

Not a critical application, but it presented a scenario that I didn't know how to deal with properly.

Thank you.

Edit: You are all brilliant gentlemen and scholars. This has to be one of the most informative and helpful reddit communities I've ever joined. Thank you.

Setup:

Cheap 110V dual process welder (FCAW and SMAW) with voltage issues running E6010.

Have .035 E71T-11 and GS

Have 3/32 E6013 and E7018

Have 1/4" to 3/8" mild steel, surface prepped, to fillet weld at a 90*, can bevel.

What I've learned about each process so far tells me that the flux core can give good penetration, but can be bad in multiple pass with slag inclusion, porosity, and brittleness. 7018 is strong and great for filling passes and capping, but doesn't get the penetration for root passes.

What potential issues would I face making a flux core root pass and subsequential passes of 7018?

Learning, thank you all for your help.

Edit: Questionable HF 6011 partially to blame, different pack is working with a slightly shaky arc if I wander a little too far off the material. Not used to the different burn rate yet.

Edit: This is a mental exercise based on a likely scenario and given my real world restrictions. I'm also exploring other mixed process ideas for efficiency at where I work, interested to see if attaching an original clevis to a newly machined rod for a hydraulic cylinder repair using tig root with a faster process to fill would be effective or possible. We currently only tig them.

I'm about a month into welding and metal working in general. Got tired of practicing on the ground, so I designed and built this table from scratch. Other than the square tube legs it's all scavenged materials (work scraps, roadside junk, other people's project leftovers.) Legs pin release for storage and portability.

I know it's not pretty, but it holds my weight, is stable, and it's teaching me a lot.

Technically ongoing but usable as is, just added the the wheels.

About 70% E6013 and 30% .035 flux core.

Now, is anyone familiar with the brown coating on those top plates? How to remove it? Trying to grind it is just contaminating my flap wheels and grinding discs

Hoarded my old CB500X's worn brake rotors. Some tack welds, tote lid, hardware, rubber grommets and clock kit.

I have my motorcycle themed shop clock.

I'm split on taking a torch and heat coloring the discs.