u/ENTroPicGirl

I usually use her in street 1/2/3 modes, but I want to see what it really could do under throttle. I switched her to straight to “race 3”; mind you I was already going about 28 miles an hour, I whacked that throttle open, giving her all the magic pixies when the front wheel started lifting. I got that front wheel off the ground bout a foot when I thought maybe it would be prudent to back off the throttle so I don’t break the chain or damage my freehub or pull a spike through my HED carbon rim.

I’m not sure I’ve done here but it’s freaking ridiculous. I got 5k watts of power on tap that can be tuned every which way. There are a preset levels of Street 1,2,3 & Race 1,2,3 , those 6 settings are fully tuneable too. I can delay and soften the rate which the motor kicks in under pedal assist and throttle separately. There’s also the option for using a smart watch and app. You can then create your own fitness program where you can adjust your motor to assist you when your heart rate and input wattage dips, giving you a real workout. There is much to learn.

Now onto the final 3 phases this project.

1). suspension Fork; and I’m leaning towards the very stiff Wren because of the weight of this bike.

2). Bigger brakes, I have 180mm f/r but thinking 220 F/200 R with better pads

3). Single track/wheel trailer. I’m looking for a big trailer that I can use to drag a deer out of the woods or carry all my fly fishing gear. I’ve seen some trailers out there, but a lot of them have shitty welds or their back wheel is just poorly constructed. If anybody has any suggestions I’m all ears. It’s just gonna be one of those trailers that attaches to both sides of the axle.

Sidenote: for all of you that are purists and don’t like the E bikes, I’m BKA (below knee anputee) and 51 y/o woman I can only put out so many watts of power.

There will be a complete build list and video coming in the future.

This is what happens when ya have to much disposable income; bout $7k, and a goal to build the gnarliest electric fat bike that ever fat biked. I’ll be posting more in the future with everything that was done the battery set up how to pull off a clean wiring, along with some tips and tricks for making those magnetic brake lever sensors work.

And now I will say I do have some genuine concerns about being able to go forward on Emoto with it . Well, I have a good hub and cassette. I can’t imagine it lasting long if I just start whacking on it with the throttle for now I don’t dare go beyond race 2 and pedal assist with very little throttle. The hubs on my 29 inch rims or DT Swiss but even then I’m not sure it would be wise.

I have two identical batteries bought at the same time; 52v 50amp 10Ah Mini-Max from Electrify Bikes Co., and am going to connect them via ‘Y’ connectors in parallel. Connecting them in parallel is easy, just charge them within .1v<.5v of each other and I’m good to connect. However I’m not sure how to go about charging.

Do I:

Option A:

Disconnect one black lead in the charging dongle to Battery 1 and the red lead on charging dongle to battery 2.

This is how we charge deep cycle 12v batteries using a battery tenders in the RV (shown in image)

Option B: hook charging dongles 1 & 2 together and connect that to charger.

Second question: my charger has a dial that says 80% 90% 100%. Which setting do I choose? The goal is to have them last as long as possible. Speed at which they charge isn’t my concern.

Third question: how often should I charge my batteries, do I wait till I’m down to one bar of power or should I charge when I’m at 50% trying to make these batteries last as long as possible.

Build Spec:

-Bike : Borealis ‘Flume’

-Wheel sizes: 29x2.6 (for late spring/summer/fall) and 26x5 Johnny 5 for spring mud season 26x5 studded Dillinger fives for winter

-Motor: CYC X1 Gen4 52v

-Batteries: 52v 50amp 10Ah Mini-Max Electrify Bikes Co.

Elegant fix for brake sensors on SRAM G2 brake levers and other high end brakes with pull length adjusters.

All it takes is some 8mm x 3mm neodymium magnets, shrink tube and some 3M Super Strength Molding Tape. Install the magnets first. Personally I did the shrink tube twice, did the first one trimmed down the end then used a second layer of shrink tube to be sure it’s not going to easily tear off. Then use 2 layers of 3M tape leave the film on before sorting out the position, once ya get conformation with the red and blue lights on the sensor pull the film off stick em in place lightly pull the brake lever to confirm it’s still working then put firmly and zip tie.

(Note I’m out of small zip ties I’ll have to sort that out later)

And Bobs your uncle…

Before anyone says something about e-bikes I’m an amputee, this is need not a want. For anyone looking to build a fat-e there’s some things to consider and I’ll be posting more on that in the CYC Motor sub, there are a lot of things to consider like chain alignment and how much power can you throw into a 12 speed Eagle drivetrain before it fails, also some hub recommendations not all hubs are up to the task, mine are boarderline but I’m setting her up to be pedal assist not an e-motorcycle so I should be fine. This is a tunable system so don’t have to worry about warping cassettes, snap chains, and pulling spoke nipples through carbon fibre rims.

I do have some concerns about the carbon fiber, fork so if anybody has any experience with the Wren, inverted fork holler at me. I’m open to other forks, but my big concern is service, the Wren needs a little less maintenance and from my understanding torsional stiffer which is important given the weight.

Maiden voyage will be this weekend, I have a bunch of tuning and software stuff to do today.

It really wasn’t sure which way to go with this project, I liked the Photon 2 but the chain line sucked due to chain ring clearance. The largest chainring recommended by Borealis as a 34 tooth so the 36 was way too much pushing the chain line far to the outside. I’m already going to have to use the 120mm motor in my 100mm bottom bracket with a bunch of spacers to push the chain ring to the correct position. I also ordered different cranks because the rear chain stays are wide AF and I need the clearance.

It’s going to be an interesting project, I’m a bit nervous about my SRAM Eagle drivetrain holding up. Curious if yall have any recommendations of how much power I can safely run to it. I’m really using this more as a peddle assist e-bike not an e-motorcycle. I’m an amputee so I will use the throttle to help me get up to speed, especially on hills, but I do plan on peddling and not just throttling around everywhere.