u/Ecstatic_Loss_8668

Nozzle clogs every time after mid print nozzle wipe
▲ 1 r/OrcaSlicer+1 crossposts

Nozzle clogs every time after mid print nozzle wipe

https://preview.redd.it/ee041oy0m92h1.jpg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=55dde407b011a1b7f158a1ab198352d0e252c7aa

https://preview.redd.it/deybn3s1m92h1.jpg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7a696689f3ea2ffcdf13119debe1e6e4b922ebd1

I'm starting to lose my mind over this... Not fluent in Gcode but I'm starting to understand some. I'm running batch prints of a structural part in PETG which I am slightly overextruding for strength, on my P1S. This leaves buildup of filament on the nozzle that drops off as unsightly "zits" on the last few layers. Trying to fix this, I realized many had had the same issue and added intermittent mid-print nozzle wipes with either custom gcode at specific layers or with machine gcode in the "layer change" section.

I promted chatGPT for code and I've tried a few iterations. I'm trying it out on a small primitve cube. The first one managed one wipe and kept printing but on the second wipe it started severely underextruding and eventually clogged. I suspected it was a retraction issue and dialled the retraction in the gcode back from 0,8mm to none. I've since tried 0,2mm, 0,2mm with a re-prime before resuming printing etc, etc. Same result every time. I'll post a few different iterations of the code below. I'm adding this code (one iteration at a time of course) to the layer change gcode and not removing the code that is there as standard. I've had my extruder apart for at least eight times now and each time I'm finding what I suspect a heat creep clog would look like. Never had that particular issue though, printing with door open always for PETG.

Help?

First try:

{if layer_num > 0 && layer_num % 20 == 0}
G91
G1 E-0.8 Z3 F1800
G90
G1 X65 Y255 F18000
G1 X85 Y255 F12000
G1 X65 Y255 F12000
G1 X85 Y255 F12000
G1 X65 Y255 F12000
G91
G1 E0.8 Z-3 F1800
G90
{endif}

Without retraction:

{if layer_num > 0 && layer_num % 20 == 0}
G91
G1 Z3 F1800
G90

G1 X65 Y255 F18000
G1 X85 Y255 F12000
G1 X65 Y255 F12000
G1 X85 Y255 F12000
G1 X65 Y255 F12000

G91
G1 Z-3 F1800
G90
{endif}

This is the standard gcode that is in the "layer change gcode" dialog for the P1S:

; layer num/total_layer_count: {layer_num+1}/[total_layer_count]

; update layer progress

M73 L{layer_num+1}

M991 S0 P{layer_num} ;notify layer change

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u/Ecstatic_Loss_8668 — 2 days ago
▲ 1 r/Optics

I have two older stereo microscopes used for micro mechanics and watchmaking. I recently got aftermarket reducing Barlow lenses (0,5x) for them both. As far as I can tell, no purpose made Barlow lenses can be found for these anymore.

I have to make a mount for both but I’m noticing some interesting effects of moving the lenses closer to and farther from the optics of the scopes. Am I imagining that the working distance (IE reducing effect of the lens) increases the closer I bring the Barlow to the scope optics? It’s been a long time since I did optics theory and I’m struggling to explain why this would be. Help?

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u/Ecstatic_Loss_8668 — 15 days ago
▲ 1 r/BMCU

I’m trying to wrap my head around how the different sensors in the units work. Mine is a Hall sensor-version. Is that for the filament buffer? The rod magnet? There is also a radial magnet on the extruder shaft. What function does that have?

Also: most kits I’ve seen have had a steel ball bearing for the filament sensor. Mine has glass balls. I’m thinking that sensor is optical and the material of the ball shouldn’t matter?

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u/Ecstatic_Loss_8668 — 18 days ago

I recently bought parts from Cousins for a vintage Alpina 586 movement. The parts I received (mainspring barrel and ratchet wheel core amongst others) were clearly from a donor movement and not new, with markings in the barrel and the ratchet wheel core was badly rusted.

I’ve bought from Cousins before and I’ve been happy with them but it’s been a while since last time. Has anyone had similar experiences with parts from them? Is this what to expect from them now?

Of course this should be addressed by Cousins, I’m just looking for what other have experienced and if I should adjust my expectations. Cousins also do not have a customer support email, just a returns form. Plus they’re outside of the EU (I’m in Sweden) and I’ve already paid close to 20€ in import fees on these parts so I’m not too keen on paying it again.

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u/Ecstatic_Loss_8668 — 23 days ago

Hello! I made the ring in the pictures in silver a while back as a prototype for a platinum ring. I understand that it’s better to weld than solder platinum as platinum solder (some say white gold solder?) is softer than platinum and will get pulled out of the joint when polishing.

How would you go about making the trellis setting pictured? In silver I made a cross out of slotted plate that I soldered, then mounted the cross in the opening of the ring, soldered it there and then cut and shaped the cross into the prongs. So two soldering operations in total, three joints. The join between the cross and the ring has quite a large surface area.

u/Ecstatic_Loss_8668 — 28 days ago

Hello! I’m just getting started with TIG welding and I’m looking into solutions for grinding my electrodes. Most that I’ve come across are open systems like bench grinders or the Eastwood grinders. The tungsten dust doesn’t seem to that great to breathe. Especially lanthanated or thoriated versions. Maybe not as bad as tungsten carbide dust but close enough.

How do you manage dust? Shop vac? Mask? Is it a concern for you at all? There are closed dedicated grinding systems but they are very expensive. Is there a decent hobbyist version that’s reasonably safe?

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u/Ecstatic_Loss_8668 — 28 days ago