u/Electronic-Garage-60

A while back, my wife tested positive for syphilis. First from donating plasma (RPR), then again at their doctor (RPR positive, RPR titer 1:2,). The TP-PA was negetive, but ive been told those can give false positives if the infection was recent, which to my understanding is consistent with the RPR titer ratio being 1:2.

She had virtually all the symptoms, sore in the mouth, flu-like symptoms, joint pain, and swollen lymph nodes. Her doctor diagnosed her with primary syphilis and had her get penicillin injections for three months that made the symptoms go away and she tested negetive afterwards.

So it had to be a bacterial infection since the penicillin worked. And her doctors tested her for every bacterial infection or autoimmune disorder that could cause a false positive, and they all came back negetive. I tested negetive for it three times, was never treated for it, and never got sick.

To this day she swears that she couldn't have gotten it anywhere, and wasnt cheating on me.

Im pretty certain she has to be lying, but I want to give her the benefit of the doubt and see if anyone has any possible explanations.

1991 Z32 NA 2+2

Had a manual swap done before my car came in to my possession. Was handling some remaining electrical issues, and noticed the TCU was still in there.

Shouldnt need it for anything, right? My ECU is for a manual, and I have the nuetral position switch going directly to Pin 44 on the ECU, so I figure I can just pull it and sell it.

Anything Id need to rewire if I get rid of it?

1991 300zx NA 2+2

Looking for some advice on an electrical issue with my turn signals.

Front turn signals stopped working, rears were good. Inspected the fronts, plugs were corroded. Cleaned the plugs and replaced the bulbs, left signal works now, but now the right doesn't and now the right rear hyperflashes when I put the right signals on, even if I unplug the front right turn signal plug. Doesnt hyperflash when I use the hazard switch, hazards turn on front left and rears, but not front right.

Any ideas on where to look first? Gonna go over the schematic, but wanted to see if anyone is aware of any common causes. Dont think its the switch.

1991 300zx NA 2+2, VG30DE engine

Okay, I'm a mechanic myself, even one that specializes in electrical, but ive been on this on an old Z32 ive been fixing up for a couple months, and Im about to go insane.

Symptom: once set to "On" or accessory, wont power down without removing the battery cables. Once it starts up, doesn't shut down, even with battery cables removed, unless you stall it out.

Obviously itd be the ignition switch or a failed diode in the alternator, right? Nope, doesn't cut power even if I unplug the ignition switch, I can remove the battery cables and exciter plug from the alternator, same problem (except then itll obviously shut down if I unhook the battery in that case).

Problem persists even if I remove every fuse from the main fusible link block, aside from the battery fusible link. Also shuts down if I unplug the PTU, CAS, MAF, etc, but the ECU will shut down the car no matter what if a critical sensor shows no signal.

Something has to be backfeeding to the ECU, or my ECU somehow fried from me fixing the headlights and changing the transmission+diff oil.

Had a backfeeding issue preventing my 91' NA from shutting off or leaving accessory. Thought it was the ignition switch first, nope. Then I thought it was the exciter wire from a bad diode on the alternator, nope. Unhooked everything going to the alternator and starter, unplugged everything from the fusible link box except the battery fuse, still have a short from ground to power (leave the positive cable on the battery, unhook the negetive, getting positive on my negetive cable and ground).

Started unplugging stuff from the fuse block in the driver's footwell one by one, and I get the short from plugs B2 and M4 (I think, will double check once home). There was an aftermarket Bluetooth radio installed before I got it, and those plugs are on the audio circuit.

Im figuring its probably the rear amplifier, but thought id see if anyone else had any suspects they think I should look into.

Finishing up some repairs and adjustments on my '91 NA that had a manual swap done on it before I got it. Guy who did it did some questionable work, so I have questions about his setup as well as finishing my own work.

1. Nuetral safety switch looks like it was probably bypassed, as the wires on it go nowhere. Is the bypass neccesary for the manual swap, or would I be fine to wire it back in? Ive definitely accidentally started the thing in gear before and would like to prepare against my own f*** lol.

2. Switches the clutch pedal is supposed to rest on when its up are gone- master cylinder rod was fully extended, so im having to readjust the clutch pedal. Using a bolt as a stopper and adjustment screw for now, but are those switches typically bypassed?

3. Any tips on the clutch pedal adjustment? Having a hard time getting it just right and im new to driving a manual, so im not sure how the clutch is supposed to feel.

4. Having a hard time bleeding the clutch and telling if its bled. Replaced the old clutch lines with a single braided one, so I only have the bleeder at the slave cylinder to use. No air is coming out when I bleed it, but the slave cylinder doesn't recede all the way when the clutch pedal is released- only when I bleed from the screw. Then after the first time I pump the pedal after pulling it back the slave cylinder is maybe half an inch short of fully receding, im assuming that means I have air in the line?