2015 Golf TDI Sportwagen
Was pulling the underbody splash guard to start my big maintenance project and I heard hollow things tumbling out.... dry bones! Last time I had this off was about 4 months ago for an oil change. It's parked 2 spots away from a community trash bin.
At first glance, no wiring damage (and no random issues).
Most of these look like chicken bones?
2015 Golf Sportwagen TDI (mk7)
Can anyone point me in the right direction for the tool to install the dogbone Mount? I've seen the ones on ECS but it shows that it only works up to golf 6 and I don't know if it'll work for mine. Same for the generic versions I've seen like this one:
I've seen the Laser 9028 but that's way too much $$$$.
I have some generic press tools and large vice I plan to use if I can't get a hold of the specialized tool. I will be removing the subframe to also do the DEF delete and I'm fine with cutting out the old one - I'm mostly concerned with installing the new one. I've studied the YouTube videos and the biggest reason for wanting a specialized tool is that part that pushes in the notched part - without it it seems to flex a bit and get hung up on the lip.
I've seen hacks like shaving a large PVC pipe to fit around the bushing as a retaining sleeve (preventing the notched part from bowing slightly) and chamfering/grinding the edges. Another idea I had was to wrap some thick wire around and tighten it down with a drill so that it'll help retain roundness while pressing in 🤷🏻?
I'll be working on and staying at my friend's house to to this (and other long term maintenance) so I want to make sure I plan ahead to avoid running into any big setbacks. I also therefore won't be able to dig into my collection of random tools to do creative troubleshooting.
And productive feedback is appreciated! 🙏🏻
If someone in the Seattle area has one and it's willing to rent it out to me I'd also appreciate that!
Put the watch on the charger. When I came to check on it, it was HOT with this on the screen. After ~1-2 minutes to check surface temp that read 120 degrees F.
Had to leave so set it in the sink to cool (and would be relatively safe if it decided to ignite). Upon return several hours later, screen was off and unresponsive to waking or holding the power button.
Attempted forced reset (power and back button for 30 seconds)
Attempted forcing power on (power button for 30 seconds) or reset (power & back button for 30 seconds) while on charger (after 30 min).
Attempted all the above again after letting it sit for 3 days to drain battery.
I will note that when I put it on the charger, it will periodically do a quick vibration that is similar to what it would do when it recognizes and initiates charging out basic notifications. I also see on the phone a message that shows that the watch has disconnected from the phone, so apparently at some point "something" is happening?
I'm suspecting it was trying to run an automatic update while charging and something happened?
Any help appreciated!
Hello, I know this has been discussed a lot in general, but I wanted to check for confirmation. I'm still learning about VWs and diesels so forgive me, but I believe my US 2015 GSW TDI has the CRUA motor. As such, will the Whitbread kit work on this? I lamely already bought it not realizing CRUA was not on the compatibility list and I couldn't find definitive proof that someone has successfully used it on a CRUA motor. (AI concludes it is but when I check the references it is not so clear that it is.)
Do I need to return and go for another kit??? 😬😥😫
Also, this is not the limit of my newbiness.... bought a CP3 (0445010042) that unfortunately was misadvertised as "New" but was in fact refurbished (Sterling Diesel of Harlow UK). Planning to return and eat the cost of import tax, but getting a replacement will depend on whether this adaptor kit will work on my car.
Hoping for good news🤞🏻
Recently applied for and was accepted for an ATMOS card. Credit is over 800 and I'm 46 with a handful of cards. This is my first real encounter with BofA (was Washington Mutual and just stayed when they were absorbed by Chase) and I really hope this is not the standard.
When I got the card and attempted to activate (I DID create an account online and yes, tried both app and website) it gave me a simple message saying "Online banking is not available to you at this time. Please call [some 800 number]"
So I call and after 1 hour waiting on hold, The person says I called the wrong place (with the number THEY provided) and they need to call another department.... so on hold for another 45 minutes. Then that person asks a few questions and puts me on hold for another 10 minutes. Comes back and tells me I HAVE TO GO INTO A BRANCH TO VERIFY ID with no explanation being there was a fraud warning. I then notice in my mail a letter saying similar (but no new info - still just says to call that same number).
I go to the bank and this is the FIRST time I'm informed I will need 2 forms of ID. I'm currently in the bank and the employee is trying to activate it and they ask me my name and a number to verify and then guess what.... ON HOLD for their "bot department". This poor young bank guy is doing his best to help.
I find all of this unnecessary and unacceptable - am I the crazy one here? The disorganization of this is very worrying. I want to say "F U BofA" and walk away, but the credit hit is already done.
I now have finished after another hour at the bank (total of ~6 hours to activate a card). After needing to educate the guy on the phone a bit as to the difference between FACTS and blowing smoke up my arse, I finally extrapolated that there was a discrepancy in contact info. That's it.
I get that they're being cautious and I am capable of seeing that positive, but the execution and process involved I find very lacking. I will be avoiding BofA for a while....
Just now:
"Hey Google, turn off light"
"I'm sorry, power control is not available yet"
"Hey Google, TURN OFF THE F✓C¥ING LIGHT"
Light turns off.
Similar thing happened yesterday.
Also, in the car WHEN it gives really stupid responses and I call it out, it whines about being talked to harshly. Google can't seem to do simple logic - we wouldn't be pissed if there was nothing to be pissed about, and yet all you do is create MORE THINGS TO BE PISSED ABOUT.
Gemini for home is STILL CRAP.
Hello folks. Car is a 2015 Sportwagen TDI SEL Manual. I have questions including a strange one....
As the title suggests, I'm going to be doing a complete suspension OEM+ refresh (car is stock with 115k miles - half in TX half in WA). Mostly it will be factory/OEM parts with some exceptions. Here's the running list so far:
Rear axle beam bushing -> Powerflex Street
BFI Control arms w/ ball joints & solid rubber bushings
*Front subframe bushing deadset kit*
*Rear subframe inserts*
Velt strut & shock mounts
SKF front strut bearings
Koni Special Actives
Bump stops, & dust sleeves
Sway bar end links
Sway bar bushings (not sure if I also have rear?)
Spring pads
Questions:
What else am I missing "while I'm in there"? I'd like to not have to really do any major suspension work for another 5-10 years. I'm also considering including axles while I'm there (I will also be doing a brake overhaul) or maybe just do proactively replace boots and repack grease 'cuz OEM axles are really $$ @ 600+ each and I don't know how much Raxels is currently.
*Items* are not 'necessary' but they seem like they would be helpful, aren't insanely expensive, mostly positive reviews I've found, and are really easy to install. But, I'm open to thoughts on these.
Open to any other feedback/recommendations including but not limited to regarding brands to seek or avoid, longevity issues, comfort issues, etc.
and here's the strange one. In my research, springs for this car are expected to last ~100K. There's nothing noticeably wrong with them (there has been creaking while under load, but probably a bushing). However, since I want this setup to last another 10+ years I'd rather proactively replace them (esp since the shocks/struts are already coming out). Here's the thing... I've been actually contemplating a MILD lift (like ~0.5") but I definitely do NOT want to lower it because it's a daily and I take it on trails to parks sometimes and I have my BMW e30 as my fun car. This means the ALLTRACK path (like on IDParts website) because the lift is ~2" and most aftermarket springs (which nearly all lower or aren't for the torsion beam suspension). I believe I've narrowed it to 2 options (coilovers not considered b/c they tend to be much more expensive and I already bought the Konis - found a great deal & it was low stock on tirerack)
a. stock replacement springs and a mild lift kit or just keep it stock
b. Eibach pro-kit (estimated -1.5" front / -1.2" back) with a lift kit would bring it back to ~ stock height though I did find one person report this setup dropped ~1"
This is what I've found for lifting:
https://www.b2bfab.com/products/b2bfab-mk7-golf-sportwagen-camber-correcting-lift-kit
I'm considering the simple spacers with the Eibachs - this will effectively keep the same height and I don't think it'd impact geometry enough to need to mess with things like camber or axle length or rear strut extender? Is this just silly? What potential problems 10 years from now should I expect?
I've actually been pretty impressed with the car's handling (dodged a deer in the middle of the road @ 75mph and kept up with sports sedans when I took it to an AX, but in fairness I'm a driving coach) so I'm hoping someone will just tell me I'm being a dummy and just get stock springs and mild ~0.5" spacers 😅. But then, OEM springs are so expensive it pushes me back to Eibachs & spacers.
Your wisdom and experience is appreciated!