Quadruple the work and double the price for a 2% grade?
▲ 1 r/Shed

Quadruple the work and double the price for a 2% grade?

Where I want to put my 6x5' shed is on top of pavers with a 2% grade. The shed is a Suncast BMS6584. I've built the form, and must've calculated incorrectly at first, because I'm realizing now that I need ~38 60lb bags of Quickrete for a 6'x6'x5.5" platform. The first shovel fulls would be dry before my middle-aged muscles get the form filled. I can get help, so that's not the problem.

The only reason I'm creating the slab is to level the 2% grade, 1.5" over 6'. Do I really need to go though 38 &$%#en bags of concrete for that? At this point, I'm almost of the mind to just put down some feet with 3/4" outdoor rated ply and build the shed on top.

Just set me straight. If I need the slab, I need the slab.

u/EmynMuilTrailGuide — 3 days ago

Afraid to donate an end-grain cutting board for auction

I've been making cutting boards for a short while now. My oldest one is six months old, given to a family member. All walnut, from 1.5" square sticks. So far, I haven't had any negative reports regarding that one or the half dozen other boards I've made, including two in my own kitchen.

My wife has asked me to donate an end-grain board for my daughter's school's yearly gala, which is a large part of how the school obtains funding for their operating budget. I'd feel bad enough if I gave one as a gift and it went bad. I'd feel worse selling one for profit. But, giving one for auction to a non-profit school that serves an underserved community, where people purposefully overpay for gala auction items, and it starts splitting, warping or cracking? I'd feel terrible.

As one way to combat the fear of this happening, I thought I would not only include a bottle of mineral oil, and care instructions, but contact information with a promise to fix or replace the board if it began to experience problems. Of course, that also opens me up to potentially fixing or replacing a board they didn't care for properly.

So, I feel a bit stuck here. How might you handle this? How long is a reasonable amount of time to get an honest sense of how well I'm making boards? Is the sustained health of that 6 month old, smallish 14x8x1.75 board enough proof? Would you include contact information?

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u/EmynMuilTrailGuide — 4 days ago
▲ 16 r/M43

Might as well take some photos, if you're winning.

This was my during my first few hours with a DJI 15mm f/1.7 (E-M5 III). I cherish this little lens, which in the last year has become my goto.

P.S. I know, at that moment I was behind in points... but not position.

u/EmynMuilTrailGuide — 8 days ago
▲ 11 r/AskSF

If you shop at Graffeo on Columbus, what's your staple?

I generally get 3 or 4 lbs a month, usually a half-half mix of light roast (which the rest of the world calls medium-dark) and then decaf (which only comes dark). They'll mix it for me, right in the bag. Those guys are great, always accommodating. Best roasters in the City, IMO. (In the world, according to them 😂 )

Just curious... What do you usually get?

(And yeah, this is a bit of a plug. Not because I'm affiliated with them in any way. I'm just a customer. They don't even know my name. But, I'd hate to see this ~90 year old mom-n-pop SF tradition disappear.)

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u/EmynMuilTrailGuide — 1 month ago
▲ 5 r/Cuttingboards+1 crossposts

Stacking end grain pieces within an end grain cutting board?

https://preview.redd.it/gk5esg84d1bh1.png?width=3364&format=png&auto=webp&s=f4b25443f197800f0c011a3f400bb1848d6ef57d

I have a bunch of #3s, maple and walnut, for making an end-grain cutting board. I cut my stock into #3s rather than gluing sticks together because the board’s design will be a haphazard placement walnut and maple of squares.

Since I have no more stock, I want to glue those #1s together, in the configuration shown by #2, to make more #3s.

I will then have some #3s that are naturally contiguous pieces of wood and some #3s that are engineered from #1s.

In the finished board, both kinds of #3 blocks will stand on end grain and will be glued to their neighboring blocks along side-grain surfaces.

My question is: because end-grain cutting boards are already quite subject to wood movement, would mixing the engineered #3s among the naturally contiguous #3s create a greater risk of splitting or joint failure?

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u/EmynMuilTrailGuide — 2 months ago

Making the best of incorrect cuts?

I was cutting 1.5 × 1.5 × 36-inch sticks into 1.875-inch blocks for my next end-grain adventure. That is, 1 7/8 inches per block plus the kerf, for a 2-inch spacing between cuts.

Well, that was the plan. I brainlessly counted the first pencil mark on the sled as 0 instead of 1, and ended up cutting 2.875-inch blocks.

To get to my intended 1.875-inch size (because I did not want to make a ~3-inch thick cutting board) I cut 1 inch off each block. But now I have dozens of little 7/8-inch blocks (1 inch minus the kerf), about 42 inches’ worth. That is 1 1/3 of a 36-inch stick wasted.

Since end-grain boards are already quite subject to wood movement, I am wondering whether it would be a bad idea to glue some of the little blocks together, then trim them back into more 1.875-inch blocks. The grain would all run in the same direction, but the pieces would not have continuous grain. Does that matter?

Good idea or bad idea? I would like to understand why (or why not).

u/EmynMuilTrailGuide — 2 months ago
▲ 0 r/M43

OEM Olympus/OM 40-150mm Hood, the retracting kind, only USD$30

Mine broke years ago (I stupidly dropped it one too many times... not while on the lens, thank goodness) and I ended up getting one of the non-retracting kind. Not a fan. Couldn't believe this guy was selling them so cheaply. Reviews for previous sales of this hood are really promising, so I took the bait. Should arrive in a few days and I can update with my own review of it... but they'll probably be gone by then, 88 sold, 8 left.

Anyhow, I thought I'd share my good fortune.

(Sorry for the re-post. I can't stand the new lack of image&video post button :p)

u/EmynMuilTrailGuide — 2 months ago
▲ 25 r/coincollecting+1 crossposts

Just the tip.

All these posts about the OP getting some collectable coin as a tip at work, who does this? I mean who gives a Morgan dollar, a 300 year old German coin, a US Mint set, or an early 20th century US $5 gold piece as a freakin' diner tip? These are all things I've literally seen on this sub, claimed to come into an OP's possession by way of a tip.

Not to mention all the rare coins found in parking lots, gutters and grandma's kankles. Not a box or book of collected coins, just one random coin, magically deposited in a random spot, not even in front of an LCS.

But the real question is, why does anyone take these posts seriously? If you think we should, convince me that I'm just a suspicious old man yelling at tips.

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u/EmynMuilTrailGuide — 2 months ago
▲ 11 r/M43

Old man yelling at Olympus buttons and dials.

I've owned various Olympus M43 bodies over the last 14 years. I'm very familiar the menus, SCP and what each entry is for. But, I never became proficient with the physical buttons, dials, custom modes and other things that can make the camera apparently much easier to use. I mean, I know the menus because I'm constantly in them. This means I miss quite a few perfect moments. Or, in the rush to get that perfect shot, I screw up menu settings.

Do you have a favorite tutorial, say on YouTube, that got you to take full advantage of the outside of your cameras?

Currently, I have only one body: a E-M5.3.

[EDIT] P.S. Couple of comments basically recommend "Just learn how to change aperture, speed and ISO dials quickly". I guess I wasn't clear initially -- that stuff's already in muscle memory. After a decade and a half, I better be able to do that in my sleep, or what I am doing with a camera like this? But I'm looking at the 7 additional buttons and a swivel switch I never use, and thinking I'm wasting at least a couple hundred dollars worth of capability.

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u/EmynMuilTrailGuide — 2 months ago
▲ 14 r/WheatPennies+1 crossposts

Will the real 1922 plain, please stand up?

(Those are my own coins. Top left: Die Pair #3. Top right: True plain, Die Pair #2. Bottom: Normal D with the reverse O crack... Die Pair #1 ?).

I know of two main sources that explain how the 1922 Plain Lincoln cent was minted. But, which is truly true?

  1. Many of us are probably familiar with The Lincoln Cent Resource (LCR) website's page on "1922 No D and Weak D Varieties". This explains the plain variety as follows:

>Die Pair #2 is not believed to be the result of “mint grease”. A pair of dies that were creating 1922 D’s clashed together. The clash resulted in damage to both the obverse and reverse die. The reverse die was badly damaged, and replaced with a newer less worn die. The obverse die was reworked by a mint employee who erased all traces of the D mintmark while repairing and polishing the die. The result is a worn obverse die with no trace of a mintmark and a strong reverse die.

Unfortunately, the LCR does not provide any references for this story and does not claim this version of the story comes from ANACS, though it references the grading company for other claims on the same page.

  1. For about 25 years I have owned a copy of THE STANDARD GUIDE TO THE LINCOLN CENT by Sol Taylor, Ph.D. Third edition, 1992. Page 61 explains:

>According to research done by A.D. Craig in 1967, the "true" 1922P die was actually made in Philadelphia and shipped to Denver, no D was applied to the working die.

Sol Taylor was the preeminent authority for Lincoln cents during his life (d. 2019). A.D. (Alan) Craig (d. 2014) was a world renowned numismatist, though I believe more widely known for expertise Asian coins, he was no slouch when it came to US numismatics.

Eric von Klinger, well known writer for CoinWorld, wrote a 2003 article reiterating Craig's account in more detail than Taylor's retelling, though I've lost access to it.

Here's a CoinWeek article also backing the clash/botched repair story, like that on the LCR, with the additional note that the relevant research was done in the mid-20th century. But, it also has no references to ANACS, or any references at all. The article doesn't even provide an author. Confusingly, Craig's research provided a conclusion in 1967, around the same time.

Lastly, there is a 2025 book by Tom DeLorey, The Enigmatic Lincoln Cents of 1922, that I have yet to read. But... I don't know if I have the attention span for a couple hundred pages about one penny :D. If you've read it, please, do tell.

So far, I've still haven't seen a reputable source for the "die clash" theory, though it is the story most often repeated on the Internet (from what I've seen). I've never seen any official statement by ANACS. Maybe DeLorey's book as hard evidence. But for now, I think the best evidence is from A.D. Craig ... and to be honest, I like this version where the die was made in Philadelphia, no mint mark was ever applied, but the coins were struck in Denver. That would make it a true "P" struck in Denver. Crazy.

What do you think?

u/EmynMuilTrailGuide — 2 months ago
▲ 1 r/coincollecting+1 crossposts

Some more things that have to be said...

Pinned, perhaps?

  1. You are not going to get rich or base your retirement on coin collecting.
  2. If you're not sure, more than likely it's not an error.
  3. 9 times out of 10, the coins grandma left you are worthless
  4. Paper money aren't coins.
    1. Follow up: no intelligent collector gives a crap about serial numbers.
  5. And the the most important of all: You cannot destroy coins in the name of collecting coins. Stacking is not coin collecting. (See #1)
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u/EmynMuilTrailGuide — 2 months ago
▲ 1 r/M43

I'm right where I want to be. Not GASsy at all, but.... PEN-F.

I had an EM-5.1 since they were released. In late 2024 the Shutter of Death took my beloved M43 body from me. So, in late 2025, I bought a used EM-5.3 from Japan. It's been great. My kit has the 12-40mm and 40-150mm f/2.8 PROs, 15mm f/1.7 (DJI) and 45mm f/1.8. I'm thoroughly content. Or, I was.

It's not like I didn't know about the PEN-F... but it just suddenly caught my eye. I'm not a person who buys things just to get them. Shit, it took me a year of suffering without photography to finally replace my original EM-5. But that beautiful rangefinder body and the viewfinder, and still has that fully articulating screen. I can be like (Garfield's) Spiderman with his Yashica rangefinder. I must confess, I want other people to see it and appreciate it. Hah, this is so unlike me. But it's just so cool. Oh, those buttons and dials. I keep imagining I'll feel like I'm back in Italy, strolling around Milan or Rome whenever I use it. I know, crazy, right?

OK, back down to earth. After all, no matter how much drooling I'm doing, I won't buy it if it can't function well enough. So, those of you who have a PEN-F and an EM or OM, is there a significantly different physical experience? Is it harder to handle? Does a lack of any grip take a toll (I use a bolt-on with Arca rail on the bottom for my E-M5)? Do you find you're wishing it had the tech of your other body? Or is it so awesome in its own way that none of the matters? And if so, what are its own ways? And I imagine it will pair very well with those petite 15mm and 45mm primes for equally amazing photos...? Tell me all about it.

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u/EmynMuilTrailGuide — 2 months ago

  • Carrier and Country: AT&T and USA
  • Device Make and Model: Samsung Galaxy Flip 6
  • Google Messages App Version:  messsages.android_20260414_00_RC03.phone_samsung_dynamic

Recently, every time I tried to use messages on the web (most recent Chrome on a Mac) it started requiring me to re-pair. Then, I realized the "remember" slider was off. Once I turned it on, the web app stop requiring me to repair, it's staying paired, but even though it's otherwise working as expected now, it still keeps asking me to re-pair. I ignore the notice, and it works fine. But, it's annoying to see it pop up on my web app and have my phone beeping for an notice asking if I want to re-pair.

I've already tried force-stopping Messages on my phone and clearing cache.

Any other ideas?

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u/EmynMuilTrailGuide — 4 months ago

I've been drinking this regular kukicha for months now, which I really like. Then I found this karigane (kukicha from gyokuro). It is a decidedly better cup of tea. It's almost creamy. But the karigane xis over 3x as expensive!

Anyhow, I thought I'd share. If anyone is so inclined, I'd liked to hear your comparison too.

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u/EmynMuilTrailGuide — 4 months ago