u/Estiy

>The original post by u/deformators. The translation for the sub with his consent. The post does not have any ads, this is just FYI as examples. All prices are valid for local market. If you see unknown language on picture please consider to use google lens or something similar.
Enjoy reading.

So. The root of the previous article - price - sprouts into the following branches of reasoning, but the central trunk here will revolve around MRF (Magneto-Rheological Fluid). The branches are as follows: is it possible to buy a cheaper LORD alternative and rebuild it yourself, and can you make the MRF yourself? And what exactly is so expensive about it? Because technically, the magnetic ride shock absorber itself is no more complex than a regular one. It is a classic, initially not the most reliable inverted monotube, and the cost of rebuilding it is the same as a simple one. The only nuance is attention to the seals… they need to be chosen as close to the original as possible, most likely they are fluororubber (the leader here is reinforced Viton). The standard cost for such work is $210-350 per piece. Let's assume roughly $1200 for a set. Now all that's left is to hunt down the fluid on the cheaper side.

The fluid itself is used not only in suspensions; for example, seismic dampers in the foundations of skyscrapers and bridges, brakes, clutches, and bearings in industrial machinery, various dampers in quarry or military equipment. This is no longer a new or systemic solution in the industry.

Starting point MRF-122EG $1010 (+shipping, duties, etc.)

What I managed to find out specifically regarding the TT magnetic ride - originally, MRF from LORD corp. is used. To be precise, MRF-122EG is definitely used by some repair shops during rebuilds. There are also MRF-132DG and MRF-140CG available for sale. They differ in their iron weight content: 72%, 81%, and 85%. This, of course, affects viscosity and density. I don't have reliable information about the differences - hypothetically assuming 122 is for TT, 132 for TTS, and 140 for TTRS. But if we compare the viscosity of 122EG (0.042 Pa-s) and 132DG (0.112 Pa-s) - the 132 is almost 3 times less fluid at rest… and, most likely, the "Comfort" mode on the 132 will almost completely disappear. As for the 140 - I won't even talk about it, the difference there is already 7-fold. I wouldn't pour such a paste. However, I will note that the magnetic ride is always working, meaning the electromagnetic valve in the shock absorber is under control current in any mode. If you forcibly disconnect it, you basically get a completely non-working shock absorber.

Alternatives

Such fluids have a specialized but quite widespread distribution. Let's skip Basonetic 4035 from the German company BASF — it seems you can only buy it for manufacturing purposes by the barrel. It's roughly the same story with the MRHCCS4 MRF from British company Liquids and MRF from Austrian Inventus. In the Russian Federation, dusty research institutes and separate university departments deal with this. You can dig up manufacturers in Japan, Malaysia, and so on, but there is no point in diving that deep, since the price order for fluids from these countries is clearly set by the Korean company ckmaterials (they have an office in the US) with a price of 500 usd per 1 liter, which is already very good, but…

By the way, they have an office in Dubai

There is AMT DAMPRO+ from Indian ARUS MR TECH — a fully competitive alternative to LORD, more viscous, slightly more iron at 76%, and most importantly, the price is $365 per liter. All that's left is to find a way to pay and a daredevil for experiments. You can keep it under $1400 if you find someone to rebuild the shock on it for $210 a piece.

On alibaba

But the most interesting offer is from Chinese Bohai New Materials — this company competes handily with the leader Lord in certain niches. A172 MRF of their production came as close as possible to the original in terms of parameters and boasts a good price of $380 per liter in China. Furthermore, it is available right on Aliexpress with shipping and duties included. However, at the current exchange rate, it comes out to almost $1070 there (in my opinion, for the difference, you could fly there yourself to pick it up).

An important nuance: the fact that 1 liter will be enough is my estimated assumption. 300 ml front + 200 ml rear x2, but this is very imprecise. I would solve this issue by adding regular oil, especially if choosing the Indian MRF, but generally, the essence of MRF lies exactly in the mass balance of the components, and disrupting it is undesirable.

MRF Components

And now, the hard level. Well, if enterprising mechanics have mastered the high-tech production of Lord Corporation, maybe we can try it too? Perhaps we will at least find out the reason for a cost comparable to the price of low-grade silver?

Eye of newt, and toe of frog,
Wool of bat, and tongue of dog…
Double, double toil and trouble;
Fire burn, and caldron bubble. - the magnetic ride is done

Let's start with iron powder. The largest manufacturer of carbonyl iron suitable for MRF is Dzerzhinsky "Sintez-PKJ"; they could seemingly make MRF too, but the company is old-school Soviet style and doesn't seem to master this niche and/or retail.

Judging by the Lord patent, you need to mix it bimodally

Such a diverse diameter of spheres can be obtained by mixing radiotechnical carbonyl iron R-10 (2-4 µm) and carbonyl iron 99.99% ultra-pure OSCh (20-30 µm). At this very stage, you get the opportunity to choose your suspension parameters!

7:3 (70% large iron and 30% small) — maximum softness of the suspension in "Comfort" mode

5:1 (83.3% and 16.7%) to 10:1 (90.9% and 9.1%) — maximum stiffness in "Dynamic" mode

For simplicity, let's take (75 to 25%) OSCh 6-2 (1300g) and 433g of R-10. We hit it quite accurately.

Counting: $154

This iron has a spherical shape and is the most suitable. Everything here is quite reliable.

Next, we need a base. Judging by everything, originally it's a PAO-4 base; they won't sell that to us in retail, so we'll have to settle for something already prepared, but cleaner and thinner. We can try something like TITAN CHF202-029/CHF 11S. The base is needed only as a filler - there are minimal requirements for it. It will take about 607 g. At the same time, we get an anti-oxidation additive package. Optionally, you can add molybdenum disulfide - an anti-wear additive (12 g).

Another $24

But after this comes the creativity. All we have left is to pick a surfactant and a thixotropic agent.

Since the fluid in our shock absorbers is clearly of the first generation, and recent trends with graphene, nanomaterials, and biopolymers haven't touched it, we will rely on the following sources:

• US Patent No. 5667715 (General Motors)
• WO Patent No. 2001003150 (Lord Corporation, 2001)
• US Patent No. 5683615 (Lord Corporation, 1997)

In the General Motors patent, silicon dioxide is used to keep the heavy iron particles suspended. That is the exact thixotropic agent. Let's not reinvent the wheel and just take it. We only need 31 g. Especially since Lord might be using bentonite clays — we've seen how they cope… plus they tend to harden in the freezing cold. Aerosil A-300 and TITAN CHF 11S should maintain fluidity at -40 °C.

Plus $10

To keep the iron from sticking together, a surfactant is needed. Judging by various manuals and scientific articles — the most popular and retail-accessible agent is oleic acid. We need 25 grams. It would be good to find it in its purest form, but regular will do + some more isopropanol.

Plus $7

Alchemizing

We will need: precision scales ($10), a manual vacuum pump ($20), a 3-liter metal container, a bunch of tare containers, something like a blender, mixer, spatulas, etc. A respirator and gloves are a must.

1. Add 25 g of oleic acid into 200 ml of isopropanol. Mix thoroughly and for a long time.
2. Weigh out 1300 g and 433 g of iron. Mix thoroughly and for a long time.
3. Pour the solution from step 1 into the powder. Mix thoroughly and for a very long time. Leave it to dry, stirring regularly and long, until the powder is completely dry; ideally, it should be dry, free-flowing, and not clump into sticky balls. You can weigh it — did it get heavier by the 25+ grams of oleic acid?
4. Mix 31 grams of Aerosil and 12 g of molybdenum powder. Add the mixture into 607 g of TITAN CHF 11S oil. Here it's better to use some high-speed mixer, and blend it for a long time until a homogeneous, slippery gel without clumps forms.
5. Start adding the prepared iron powder in portions. Do it slowly, mixing thoroughly and for a long time.
6. Pour everything into a metal 3-liter container and make a hole in the lid for the manual vacuum pump. Close everything hermetically and begin deaeration — remove air from the fluid by pumping a vacuum into the container. Once the liquid has settled down — pour it into a regular storage container.

1 liter of MRF for the suspension is ready. It can be checked for separation and magnetism.

The Grand Finale (FinalOchka)

We spent less than 14 thousand rubles on materials. And even then, the main expenses went towards the ultra-pure 20 µm iron, simply because I was too lazy to look for a cheap analogue of the right caliber, whereas in China it is 2-3 times cheaper. Another couple of thousand went towards equipment. In the end — if you have absolutely no materials and tools to start with, maximum costs including shipping and extra expenses will amount to well, 20 thousand. Meaning a maximum of a hundred ($1400) for the entire repair (if we get the mechanical labor done for $1120).

Where we, buying materials on marketplaces, managed within $200, a large manufacturer ordering by the ton manages within $20. In any case, the cost price barely exceeds a hundred or a hundred and fifty bucks. But we are sponsoring past and future developments, marketing. However, there is a choice, and it can be made in favor of factory Chinese analogues with a more reasonable price and, possibly, a more modern composition.

Well, as for the math of the shops doing rebuilds on their own fluid - evaluate it for yourself. Is it reasonable to charge $770 for one single shock absorber?

At the same time, the problems of first-generation fluids are being actively solved, but this does not lead to them becoming cheaper, forcing owners of TTs and other models, and the car manufacturers themselves, to degrade back to shock absorbers from the 50s of the last century.

Well, if you need to degrade for sports or economy - kits (cancellers/emulators) are available.

>The original post by u/deformators. The translation for the sub with his consent. The post does not have any ads, this is just FYI as examples.

While gathering available information about the new-generation Magnetic Ride system to manufacture cancellation kits (deletes) for the current-gen TT, I discovered that the part number sticker had changed brands. It went from the proud Delphi to, as it turns out, the Chinese company BWI (BeijingWest Industries)... and quite some time ago.

Well... it looks like a magnetic suspension system that began its history in the depths of NASA has been tossed onto the technology scrapheap. Why? What does this mean for us in general? Few TT owners even suspect they have this special system until a specific warning symbol pops up on the dash or the shop reads out a long list of current suspension faults. But for the 3.5 people "in the know" - let’s dive into it...

The pioneer of this exact MagneRide technology was the 2002 Cadillac Seville STS. The idea was revolutionary: instead of mechanically changing the fluid pass-through section of the valves (like in CDC, DCC, and other systems), they changed the viscosity of the fluid itself.

The shock absorber fluid contains suspended iron microparticles (carbonyl iron powder), and an electromagnet is mounted on the piston rod. When a current is applied, the particles align into chains, instantly thickening the fluid and stiffening the suspension.

In the US, they threw this technology into everything - from boring sedans (Cadillac ATS) and massive trucks (Escalade, Tahoe, F-150 Raptor) to high-end sports cars (ZR1, NSX) and muscle cars (Mustang, Corvette, Camaro). In Europe, however, the TT became the flagship ambassador for magnetic shocks, followed by the R8 and various Ferraris (599 GTB, California, F12 Berlinetta). After winning rave reviews from automotive journalists, mag-ride went mainstream, appearing in the Audi A3, Land Rover Evoque, and Discovery Sport.

For example, even the analog-minded Jeremy Clarkson considered Magnetic Ride the end of an era of compromise. You no longer had to choose between a "broken spine" and "seasickness." Even the TT (8N), which fell out of his favor, earned his respect in the 8J generation precisely due to its magnetic handling. As for the R8, he generally considered it one of the best cars in the world.

A Magnet for Trouble...

At first glance, the technology has no downsides. It offers lightning-fast adaptation to changing road conditions: in the latest generation, the control unit adjusts faster than 1,000 times per second, with an actual fluid response time of 10–15 milliseconds. This allows the suspension to manage changing conditions individually at each wheel and across the axles faster than necessary, and faster than any other system. Plus, it offers a massive adjustment range that valve-based systems (especially single-valve ones) can barely dream of. The design is relatively simple - no complex mechanical valves that can jam or wear out.

But why then, even before the R8 and TT were discontinued, did Audi and Land Rover stop offering mag-ride? Right now, only GM, Ferrari (12Cilindri, SF90 Stradale, Spider, Roma), and Lambo (Temerario, Revuelto) sell it, though even Opel used to have these shocks in their catalogs.

The real-world experience of owners puts everything in perspective. Under ideal conditions (smooth highways, mild climates), the struts last no more than 120,000–150,000 km. That would be fairly competitive, if not for one thing... Our harsh reality dictates a completely different lifespan: 50,000–80,000 km. After this mileage, most struts begin to leak ("weep") and clunk. There are cases of failures at just 40,000–50,000 km.

The final blow is the cost. For example, if you look at the TT (8J), replacing just the shock absorbers will cost €2,500–€2,800 (fronts run €850–€900 each, rears €450–€600 each) plus extra hardware and labor (up to 50,000 rubles / ~$550). That adds up to 20–25% of the entire car's current market value. A price tag like that leaves mag-ride with zero chance. Owners of the newer TT (8S) also don’t find it cheap to drop nearly three grand just to swap out shocks, but because their cars are newer, they rarely delete the system for regular suspension just yet.

Who's to blame?

The culprit is a drop of MR Fluids MRF-122EG from LORD corp.

What's the root cause of this? It all comes down to the killer feature of mag-ride: the fluid manufactured by a corporation with the ominous name of LORD Corp. It is a synthetic oil with special additives, diluted by one-third with carbonyl iron. You only need the deduction skills of a fifth-grader to realize that even at particle sizes of 3–5 μm, this powder is thicker than the oil film on the shock absorber's piston rod.

Consequently - especially during extreme low or high temperatures - the iron acts as an absolute abrasive. This causes severe wear not just on the seals and the rod, but leads to the degradation of the fluid itself. Some believe the iron oxidizes, breaks down, and loses its properties (though I find that hard to believe). However, it is a proven fact that after a long period of vehicle inactivity, the fluid separates, clumps up, sticks together, and completely solidifies at the bottom of the shock. 

Comments?

The anti-settling additive designed to keep the oil and iron suspended works terribly. This is the ultimate weak point of the entire technology, and physically, there is no permanent fix for it.

All this sticks to the valve and then get your wallet ready

However, the main issue isn't even the fluid - all technologies have their flaws and life expectancies. The issue is the price. The low reliability of Mag-Ride could actually be a fair compromise for the performance it delivers, provided you monitor and maintain it. Yes, reliability is lower than CDC/DCC, but it would be tolerable if not for the cost. At retail, a single 1-liter bottle of LORD MRF-122EG fluid (enough for 4 shocks) costs €870 (~$1,100 + shipping from the US). Hence, the exorbitant cost of repairs, whether you go OEM or aftermarket.

What are the Practical Takeaways?

Let’s look at the specific solutions available, excluding the most logical one: buying a brand-new original OEM suspension.

1. Buying Used (B/U): Prices range from pocket change for dead junk to €600–€800 or up to €1,400 for a set in decent condition. However, for all the reasons mentioned above, buying used magnetic shocks is a highly questionable gamble. It only makes sense in very rare, isolated cases.

2. Rebuilding/Overhauling: Repair shops that don't immediately hang up the phone after hearing the words "magnetorheological fluid" are few and far between, not just in Russia, but globally. In Russia, there is practically only one option: Novosibirsk Auto Workshop No. 1. (I was personally quoted ~$1,650 for a set of four, though a couple of weeks later, a fellow club member was quoted ~$600 per shock). There is also a shop called Gidrocenter in the Moscow region that brews its own fluid concoction, but they have a prohibitive price tag - ~$2,600 per set, making the repair completely pointless.

Globally, the most popular facility is Nagengast in Gdańsk, Poland. They charge €1,416 for a set. There is also Air-Tec in Bulgaria, charging €1,700 using original fluid. In both cases, you have to send them your old core shocks.

How do these rebuilt units hold up against the iron powder? The Novosibirsk shop claims to use reinforced rubber seals and their own custom fluid with improved cold-weather resistance. Hard data is scarce. There are successful stories of 60,000+ km, but also cases where they start sweating/fogging after just 5,000 km. They offer a 1-year warranty, but dealing with shipping struts back and forth to Novosibirsk is highly inconvenient unless you buy a cheap used set just to use as cores. The condition of your original piston rod is the deciding factor here - it’s pure luck. But if the rebuild costs under 150k rubles, it remains the only sensible option. You can reasonably hope to get 40,000–60,000 km out of it with almost no loss in performance. Whether it’s worth the hassle is up to you.

3. Aftermarket Replacements: This brings us to BWI. Has a communist star risen over the magnetic suspension market? Has the price finally plummeted?

Unfortunately, no...

For that money, you will likely get not just a regular strut, but a terrible regular strut. Solid, detailed, verified reviews both here and on European forums point to poor build quality and erratic performance. Furthermore, mentions of intermittent suspension dashboard errors are a dead giveaway of low-quality built-in bypass modules. You might find yourself revisiting your suspension issues as early as the next season. Most positive reviews come from people who switched from completely blown-out magnetic shocks to functioning regular ones and are temporarily happy with the change. Let's leave this option to shady car flippers.

Over in Europe, they are experimenting with a proper drop-in replacement from Arnott. (Part numbers for googling: for the 8J — MR-3856 and MR-3857; for the 8S — MR-3853 / MR-3854 / MR-3855). They cost around €350–€550 per shock. I haven't found definitive long-term reviews on this option, so I'm listing it strictly for reference. The final price heavily depends on where you buy them, shipping, taxes, exchange rates, and duties - expect roughly €1,500–€2,500 for a complete set.

At the moment, the gap with the original is ~5%

4. This covers the standard off-the-shelf options, and looking at them makes things feel pretty bleak and hopeless. Why is it so expensive? I have an answer: because it’s a global conspiracy between LORD Corp and the Chinese Communist Party to bankrupt VAG-heads and bury Volkswagen. As you can see, they’ve almost succeeded! 😉

This write-up is already getting too long. In the next episode, we are going to huff highly-dispersed carbonyl powder and brew our own magnetic fluid using oleic acid and polyalphaolefins.

5. Cancellation Kits (Deletes): This is by far the most popular solution. You can swap to any traditional suspension that fits your needs - cheap, expensive, or coilovers. However, even this route is complicated by the high price and shipping logistics of foreign-made delete modules. Because of this, I had to roll up my sleeves and build my own custom solution.

But there will be a separate post about this...