
Redbar Confirmed Healthy!
Mike is looking as healthy as ever! He's still wearing the necklaces Jules made him!

Mike is looking as healthy as ever! He's still wearing the necklaces Jules made him!
I know these questions are super annoying but I have to ask.
I live in an open gate apartment complex.
All deliveries go to an on-location Amazon locker.
Two of my last three UPS deliveries have had delivery exceptions because there was no apartment number with the address requiring me to make an address change- despite double checking my addresses with shippers and seeing that it is correct and my apartment is on the correct line.
What's weirder is that last week I received a shipment from Company A with zero problems and today I was expecting another delivery from Company A but it couldn't be delivered because of the apartment number issue. Why would it work fine last week but not today especially coming from the exact same company? This package was shipped with UPS My Choice.
My address on the UPS site has my apartment number.
It seems like everywhere has my correct address until it's shipped or out for delivery- and even then it can come from the same company multiple times yet only happens randomly.
Can I do anything to resolve this?
EDIT: on the UPS site under "shipment details" my address is lacking my apartment number, yet my full address is correct across all services.
I spent a career in finishing and after 10 years away I'm dipping my toes back into the water on some small projects. I'd like to think I know what I'm doing but this has me stumped. That's not white paint- it's blush.
I have used virtually all of Mohawk's lacquer products in rattle can form for various touch ups and finishing projects over the years but this new Finisher's Choice has been the worst stuff I have ever used. Do you see all that white? This stuff blushes like crazy. If you even look at it wrong, it starts to blush.
Yesterday I sprayed two coats of finisher's choice. It was 103º in my garage and 22% humidity. Lacquer on wood. No stain or anything water-based underneath. Needless to say I got blushing even on light coats- and by light I mean literally misting it on. It's unstoppable. This has been an issue for months now using various cans on various projects on various wood. No matter how long I space out the coats and how light I spray this stuff goes white somewhere on the project.
Not only that, I feel like this stuff reacts badly to mineral spirits and leaves white when rubbing out with OMS (but that may be impure mineral spirits).
What gives? Did they formulate this to sell more blush retarder for $35/can?
Has anyone else experienced this? The only other stuff I can get locally is their stringed instrument lacquer which I think I may try next.
Any ideas?
I recently acquired a one man crosscut saw in rough condition. It came with this tooth pattern which I can't find reference to anywhere.
The saw was abused and what is left of the handle is permanently attached with peened wire through the handle holes. I have yet to clean it so I have no information on who manufactured this saw.
Does anyone have any idea what tooth pattern I have here?
I recently inherited this Simonds crosscut saw. I can clearly see "CHICAGO" "SIMONDS" and "CHINOOK" on it but that's it. I cannot find this particular etch online anywhere. I have searched all the old catalogs that I can find and I am getting nowhere.
It has four unperforated teeth to one raker and is six feet long.
The black and white photos are post-rust removal with enhanced contrast and you can clearly see "CHINOOK" in a shadowed sans serif typeface with "CHICAGO" above it and "SIMONDS" above that.
In the lower right of the etch it almost looks like the word "HOUSES" is in there but I can't be certain.
Does anyone have any info on this saw model? I know Simonds made the Royal Chinook but I can't find the word "Royal" in this etch.
I'd love to be able to find a clean version of this etch somewhere to compare this to and try and get an approximate date of manufacture.
Any help is appreciated!
This seems to be a common problem but I had never come across it so I thought it was worth sharing for those like myself who didn't know.
This is a friendly reminder that the Harbor Freight clamps with silicon pads leech plasticizers an unknown substance into your wood and this can affect your finish!
I was in a pinch and had to get some clamps. Harbor Freight was out of the usual clamps I use so I grabbed these instead.
Acetone and lacquer thinner do not get it out of the wood and do not get it out of the clamp pads. I first noticed the pattern after clamping something for only a couple minutes during a dry clamp.
The above photo was taken after wiping the pads with acetone then clamping the clamp to scrap wood. I let it sit overnight and checked on it this morning and was met with what you see.
The clamping pressure really pushes this stuff into the fibers of the wood. Luckily I was able to plane it out of the wood but this can interfere with your finishes so if you have to use these clamps then you should remove the pads, use tape, or use a block of wood with tape on it.
Better yet, don't buy them.
I recently acquired a wooden Sargent toothing plane but the throat jams after about three passes with the teeth set as finely as possible. The plane is hard to push through wood, and I almost have to keep it slightly levitated and "dip" into the wood to get it to work.
When I received it, the primary bevel was at 25º so I sharpened a secondary bevel at 30º up to an extra extra fine DMT stone.
Today, I decided to square up the bottom (there was only a slight sliver of light leaking in under a rule) but the plane is still hard to push with the teeth barely protruding.
I checked Volume 1 of The Woodworker (Hayward) and there is nothing mentioned about sharpening toothing plane blades so I started searching the internet and there seems to be conflicting information on whether or not to flatten the back.
I have chosen not to as I assumed it would affect the cutting geometry of the teeth but the plane still doesn't work well so I don't know where to go from here.
The throat seems pretty open- I don't think I need to alter that- especially after flattening the bottom.
What's the verdict? Do I flatten the back or leave it as-is? Alter the secondary bevel? Somehow take even finer cuts? Open the throat?
Any help is appreciated.