I have no idea how to explain this.

I've been trying to solve a crappy idle issue on my ST. It will try to idle around 750rpm, dip to 700, shoot up to 800, back down to 750, it just feels like it wants to die but never actually does.

I've smoke tested the intake and boost hoses, not finding anything.

At one point I pulled the brake booster hose off of the vacuum pump to more easily remove the end of my intake, and forgot to plug it back in before starting the car.

What I noticed though was, "wow, it's idling so smoothly" before realizing I left that hose unplugged.

So essentially, creating a big vacuum leak makes the car idle better. I can't explain this, nor do I know what to even check.

I've had this ST3 for about a month. The previous owner had a sub wired into it but it was removed when I bought the car, and it appears the stock sub is still hooked up.

The sound I'm getting is by far, the worst of any car I've ever owned. When driving all I can hear is tinny treible and mids. It sounds like I'm blasting music from a cell phone. I've adjusted the EQ, the fader towards the back, etc. and nothing can make it sound decent. I've even turned the bass all the way up, and treble and mids all the way down, and it still sounds tinny AF.

I'm not expecting some amazing sound system, but this is just BAD. I can't hear any bass up front at all while the car is in motion. Whether it's the road noise, exhaust, or whatever drowning it out, I don't know, but it doesn't sound great even with the car isn't moving as well.

I'm wondering if the previous owner may have done something with the wiring that made it this bad, or if they just are this bad. The amp in the trunk seems to be all hooked up, and the sub back there is definitely producing sound as I've checked with the trunk open.

Is there anything I should check or are they just this bad?

This is with a sync 3 system through apple car play.

When I bought my ST recently, one of the things I checked was tire tread, just feeling with my hand, and there was a lot of tread so I didn't think much else about that.

That is, until after I bought the car and was doing rear brakes. The ST is lowered with H&R springs, and sitting on 19" RS wheels with expensive Pilot Sport 4 S tires.

When I actually had the rear wheels off, though the outer tread was indeed almost like new depth wise, the inner edges are worn down to the belts. Basically the rears are trash.

I'm guessing this is due to the lowering springs causing slight negative camber. I'm honestly not sure that the 19" wheels will fit without rubbing with a camber correction.

Anyways, before I spend a lot of money on new tires, I'd like to avoid this from happening to the new ones.

Any recommendations for rear camber arms would be appreciated. Most seem to be around the upper 200's to 300 range.

There are some ebay options closer to $100 which would be awesome - is anyone using any of those? for example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/177223913129

The other option is obviously having the lowering springs removed. While this would be my preferred option, it would cost too much for me right now on top of everything else I've had to fix on the car, as I'd have to buy new stock springs ($400ish) + installation.

Option 3 is of course coilovers, which I will eventually do when the struts are totally trashed. But for now rear camber arms seem like the best bet.

https://preview.redd.it/rq31th2r8u0h1.png?width=3334&format=png&auto=webp&s=175a63fbee292cd6cd06b23ac97ec45dde66bf2a

Yes, I've done some searching, and every other page says something different. The box of motorcraft sp550x plugs says up to 14.7 ft*lbs

Some searches claim 8.8 ft* lbs which is ridiculously low for spark plugs compared to every other car I've owned which requires around 20 ft* lbs

I've see 11-12 ft lbs.

So which is it?

I torqued mine to 14.7 based on what the box said, but that's almost twice as tight as others are saying, and that extra bit can affect where the spark happens by a tiny bit

I've been chasing some weird issues with my ST and smoke tested it (into the intake) looking for boost leaks. Afterwards I pulled the oil cap and smoke was coming out of there.

I'm kind of scratching my head as to how. I'm pretty sure the only direct connection would be through the PCV return hose that links to the intake piping, but the PCV valve is supposed to be one way.

So I'm guessing this could mean my PCV valve is shot, unless there's another route the smoke may have taken that I'm forgetting?

Is it safe to use silicone vacuum lines for the connections around the turbo for the wastegate solenoid and boost solenoid? I want ro replace all the old rubber lines with new ones

Hi all, I'm trying to figure out an overboost issue and want to replace both boost solenoids because I'm out of ideas; already smoke tested and didn't find anything.

I've read that both solenoids are the same part? Is that right? Just looking to confirm.

Meaning the one at the top of the valve cover that goes to the DV and the other that is mounted on the turbo and linked to the wastegate.

BL3Z-9K378-A (https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-solenoid-asy-turbo_bl3z-9k378-a.html)

BL3E-9K378-BA

Thanks

I want to paint my calipers because they look pretty dirty, but can't decide on a color, would love to see yours for inspiration.

Was thinking a neon yellow or green or white

Welp. When I bought his car I felt the tread of the tires and there seemed to be plenty.

Today I was doing rear brakes and when I took the wheels off, the inner edges are horribly worn, to the point that they need to be replaced immediately (one is down to the belt)

I failed to notice this when I bought the car because the tread I felt with my hand felt almost like new tires.

So I'm not aware lowering springs cause negative camber, and this is how any tire is going to wear with those things in. The car has RS 19" wheels on it and the tires are stupid expensive, so I really don't want to have them keep wearing like that.

Do I have any options to correct camber in the rear other than putting stock springs back in? Because that is going to cost a lot of money as well, and I'm getting to a point where this car is just becoming a money pit.

Sorry to beat a dead horse here. Most places simply say "don't floor it in 5th or 6th gear".

What about just regular highway cruising in 5th and 6th, with gentle acceleration when needed?

Should be fine right? Some times to maintain speed on the highway in 6th gear my pedal/throttle position is at about 30-35. Or just to speed up a few mph when necessary.

Nowhere near WOT. Everything I've read has made me paranoid about LSPI, but surely you should still be able to drive these normally on the highway right?

So how much is too much throttle?

Seems a bit impractical to stay over 3000 rpm all the time to be safe, and 3000 rpm in 6th is about 80mph.

Aside from this, I am using oils rated for LSPI prevention, but I'm almost paranoid to just drive the damn car, downshifting when it seems unnecessary, etc.