u/Haunting-Self-9402

I've been playing CODM for a few years, over 10,500 matches which is kind of embarrassing to say, but I have to state that to say that I've played this game enough times to see common patterns over time.

A lot of the time it's pretty fun but other times it's like the game is purposely forcing losing streaks. I KNOW you guys know what I'm talking about, at least those of you who have been playing for a long time.

One match, it's like every one of your bullets hit opponents, almost like magnets. Another match you can unload an entire mag into somebody and not a single bullet hits them even at point blank range, all while you get hit one or two times and get killed. Often times on the kill cam, your opponent has super sloppy aim with the crosshair nowhere near you, but the bullets are attracted to you like magnets.

Other times you can get over 30 kills out of 60 required to win in a frontline match, being the best player out of both teams, but it pairs you with one or two players with like 2 kills and 20+ deaths and forces you to lose to an average team.

Other times it puts you in matches that are so extremely uneven that you get in a streak of games that end with your team losing 18 to 60 or something ridiculous like that.

When that happens, often times on the kill cam other plays were be sniping you through fences and places with zero line of sight but some how perfectly nail a headshot. I love when someone does that through a cloud of smoke with zero visibility, yet some how nail a blind headshot on you.

Other times they'll seemingly whip around a corner with a sniper rift and instantly have you perfectly scoped and fire in a split second.

I don't know how many of these instances are bots or people cheating, but I see it a lot, and it seems impossible.

Anyways, I'm just venting and ranting, because the game throws you into these cycles, and right now it's in that forced losing streak cycle where it repeatedly puts me on horrendous teams, puts me with players that somehow know where you are without being able to see you, snipers nailing headshots through walls, people with slow guns magically being able to ADS before my fast draw SMG's, etc.

Time to take a break.

Like the title says. Looking for FF351a 2700k's from earlier this year when they were neutral if anyone has some they'd sell or in a light they'd sell or trade for something.

The current new batch is super rosy; if you like that I have 12 I'd trade you for the old neutral ones.

Kind of interested in picking one of these up for fun.

Anyone have both a TIR and reflector version? And does anyone have the FFL909A 1800K reflector version? That could be interesting.

While I'm thinking SBT90.2 + lume 10 in a TIR version seems like it would be the most impressive combo as far as making the most of what it can do, that 1800k is tempting because it's weird in a light meant for throw and I like weird.

Also how's the sustained output at ceiling and temps?

Not ordering anything right now, but planning to order a few lights and parts in the early fall.

If you do, let's see some beams! Do you love it? Thinking about going this route for my order, have these emitters in a smaller light and enjoy them

Long time flashlight enthusiast here. Currently my collection is made up of entirely fireflies lights of various models and they're awesome.

However, I'd like to venture into something a bit larger that can sustain 2000+ lumens for the entire duration of the battery **while remaining at a comfortable temperature to hand hold**, which requires a larger size and more thermal mass than anything fireflies offers. Some of their lights are certainly capable of sustaining around that for a long time, but at like 60C where you're not going to realistically be able to hold it.

I was thinking about maybe an olight marauder mini 2 or the regular marauder, and though they're chunky lights they're still not THAT large to me. I would want to LED swap them to something warmer with high CRI as well (would love to see some photos or talk to anyone that has done this to one of these as I'm curious to how difficult they are to disassemble).

Of course next step up size wise is something like the acebeam x50 and x75. The X75 is as large as I'd go for a flashlight before I'd consider it impractical for regular use.

I'm open to other brands, convoy, etc., just not familiar with their massive lineup. I would also want to put warm emitters into whatever light would be a good candidate.

I have a universal roof rack from a previous car, but it makes awful whistling and wind sounds on the highway.

Looking for recommendations for roof racks for the focus ST , especially ones that don't cause the wind to make annoying noises.

Quick test showing the output difference between the E07x with lume 1 vs the E12 eclipse with Lume 10 drivers.

Basically, you get one step higher regulated output, brighter turbo, and when run at 1 step below the ceiling level, it's a comparable output to the actual ceiling level of the E07x, but runs WAY cooler for more than twice as long when set at that.

Not a review or good beamshot test or anything, just a color comparison between the two emitters. I know a lot of people like the SFT40 3000k including myself, and the SST20 3000k's from kaidomain give an extremely similar quality of light that you can put into a floodier host like the e07 or e12.

Note: Before anyone says anything, I do realize the colors on the right side of the scene are warmer than the left side because the leaves are a different color and there is more visible dirt and branches. Do not mistake that for a color temperature difference between the two lights.

While the lume 10 gets these small fireflies lights hot pretty quick at the full 10amp maxramp and turbo, at power level 5 of 6 (6 steps is the default amount of steps) you get similar brightness to what maxramp is on lights with the lume 1 driver was.

I don't have a lumen tube to measure exact output, but to my eyes it looks pretty much the same.

While power level 5 out of 6 on a lume 10 light is similar to maxramp on lume 1 lights, thermally there's a massive difference.

Tested:

2x E12 eclipse , one with ff351a 3700k the other with FF351a 2700k

1x E12r with SST20 3000k 95 cri

1x E07x canon V1 FF351a 4000k

Starting temp: 25C room temperature

The test is:

Maxramp on the E12r and E07x with 6amp lume drivers vs power 5 out of 6 on the two e12 eclipses with Lume 10 drivers, how long it takes to reach 50c.

E07x canon hit 50C at around 3 minutes and 40 seconds, and hit 60C (my thermal cutoff setting) at 5 ;minutes and 22 seconds.

The E12r hit 50C at 4 minutes and 30 seconds.

The e12 eclipses were still only 40c at the 6 minute mark, 45C at the 10 minute mark, and finally hit 50C at 13 minutes and 30 seconds, at which point I got bored with this test and turned it off instead of waiting for 60C to get hit.

TLDR:

At a similar output level, the new E12 eclipse with the lume 10 driver takes almost twice as long to hit 50c as the e12r and e07x with the lume 1 driver.

Thinking about swapping some of these round emitters into another older light. From what I've seen the SFT25r's in 5000k actually look pretty good; anyone know the CRI? I can't find info. There IS a hi-cri version of the SFT25r that comes in 5700k 90 cri or 4000k 80cr.

I also noticed there are SFT12r's which I had not heard of before with an even smaller emitting surface (more throw) but less lumen output. I have two E12's with osram W1's and was thinking about swapping one of them out with either of these to have another throwier E12 but with a color temperature that isn't 6500k. (I have blank E12 boards to use, I know the W1 boards are 3030 sized not 3535 sized).

Also just interested in other oddball or uncommon emitters to try because why not. If anyone has suggestions I'm open to them.

I bought a car that has some clear coat failure on the hood which was poorly attempted to be covered up by the previous owner. I know it's a full hood respray to fix this.

At the same time, the front bumper has tons of noticeable rock chips and could use a respray as well.

I was preparing to do this at home, outside with some kind of makeshift spray booth (like setting up some painters plastic around a pop up canopy and maybe adding a fan with a some sort of filter to help catch some of the overspray).

While I feel ok about my painting abilities to do a 'good enough' job, my concerns stem from containing the mess, chemicals, and safety.

I do not have a garage.

I'm not sure there's a good way to contain the mess created by sanding down the old clear and base coat, unless it was entirely wet sanded on top of a plastic sheet that would then be discarded, but hand wet sanding would be extremely time consuming compared to using an orbital sander.

My second concern is with spraying 2k clear. I have a 3m respirator that has worked well for smaller paint projects in the past, but I have never sprayed 2k clear. I've got a few cans of spraymax 2k but after reading in this sub, I realized that these respirators are not rated or approved for isocyanates.

I was planning on using 3m 60921 cartridges prior to learning this.

Aside from protecting my own health, I also don't want all those chemicals contaminating my yard, or my neighbors yards or harming any near by pets.

Maybe some things are best left to professional shops, though I'm guessing this would be around 2 grand vs $200 in paint and clear as a DIY

Looking for a nice, neutral tinted 2700k 3535 emitter. The current batch of FF351a 2700k is extremely pink.

I have SST20 2700k's in another light so I don't want to use those again (but I do like them!). Hanks emitters look identical to fireflies, just wondering if anyone's got them and if they look pretty neutral or if they are also pink as hell.

Alright fellow flashlight ethusiasts...

I have a few more fireflies lights I want to LED swap.

One of them is an X1S with the lume X (boost) driver. I'm pretty sure these drivers have a max output of 40w and they are for 6v emitters.

Mine has an XHP50.3 5000k which is nice and pure white which is well suited for a thrower.

However...I want to put something warmer in.

I didn't realize the SFT70's were 5050 sized emitters.

Kaidomain has three varieties, regular, 70.2, and 70 hi cri.

Anyone know the CRI of the regular ones? And what's the difference with the 70.2's?

The 70.2's listed on kaidomain say they can handle 7a at 6v which likely means these would be the brightest. No idea what CRI is but the 4000k's are from an A3 bin so that would be nice, but the 3000k's could be nice too.

The SFT70 hi cri are rated for 4A at 6V

I'm just a bit confused about the differences with these as I'm looking at these and other 5050 sized emitters.

Same with 7070 size, I want to swap an X1L elite as well.

I've got some sft40 3000k's and they're awesome, but just came across some bare SFT40 2700k JA3 bin. Tempted to try them, just wanted to know if anyone else has. Can't find a single youtube video with SFT40 in 2700k.

With an A3 bin I'm thinking they'd be really nice.