r/VIOFO

Hi to everyone.

I hardwired A329S maybe a mont ago using HK6 cable. Red to hot, black on bolt and yellow to side mirror (triggered with engine on). Car is Mazda Cx5 2020.

I have start/stop button to run the car. Press once you have radio, 12V socket and few other accessories. Press twice dashboard is completely on and everything else inside is powered and active except for the engine. Press the clutch and the start button and the engine is on.

Similar to normal key, first click is ACC, second is ON and turning the key all the way starts the engine.

Is this normalA329S behavior? I push the button once (ACC) and the dashcam from parking goes to drive recording. I tested the yellow wire mirror fuse and in ACC position and it's dead, however when the button is pressed once more it has power.

How is possible that the dashcam recognizes driving mode? Am I missing something? Everythig else behaves normal when stopping the car camera goes to parking mode etc.

Basically what I'm trying to say is that you have 3 active power states of the fuses:

1. Always hot

2. ACC - for example when you are just listening your radio

3. ON - additional fuses start giving power when the ignition is in ON (mirrors, aircon, etc) except the engine

From Viofo side they mention ACC and not that the key has one more position 'ON'.

If I took my wife for shopping and put the car ignition in ACC in my case Viofo is in driving mode and draining the car battery. HK6 will not cut the power in drive mode.

Maybe my Mazda is giving electrical input to the side mirror when pressing the button once for a fraction of a second, but I know I can't move my mirrors untill the key is in ON position or when engine is running.

I'm planning to buy BP100 power pack. Again in the manual just the ACC key position is mentioned.

For example my 12V socket is on when the ACC is on, and off when turning ACC in off position. I say great this is exactly what Viofo says in their manual, I quote:

• ACC Wire (YELLOW) To identify a fuse for the ACC connection, turn the ignition switch to the ACC (Accessory) position. Look for a fuse that is live when the ignition switch is in the ACC position but off when the ignition switch is in the off position.

And so if I go with that logic and I connect red to always hot, yellow to the 12V socket and black to bolt.

This would be scenario from my point of view and please correct me if I'm wrong.

When I push the button once the yellow wire will immediately give input to the battery to start charging from 12V socket fuse. And while I just sit in the car and listening to the radio BP100 will start heavy charging drawing 11A from my car battery (according to BP100 specs). My car battery will certainly die.

I think the yellow wire for the battery pack should be connected to the fuse providing power only when the car is running or ignition in ON position, and not in ACC.

If I'm right then Viofo should change their installation manual explaining to their users that there is a ACC ignition and ON position.

I was thinking to hardwire the battery same as HK6 but since I saw that in ACC position without starting the car Viofo changes from parking to driving mode I'm not sure.

Can you tell me how you hardwired BP100?

Thanks for all the help I can get!

Hallo zusammen,
Viofo hat endlich nach langer Zeit den OBD Typ II Stecker angekündigt und auf die Webseite zum Verkauf eingefügt.
Anbei die Verlinkung dazu:

Viel Spaß damit. Ich hab es mir bereits beschafft.

Thinking of buying a Viofo (or maybe Blackvue) dashcam and just wanted to ask if the app is good for WiFi transfer of footage.

Neither of the Viofo apps on Apple’s App Store have high review scores, which makes me hesitate.

Has anyone used Blackvue app and can compare?

Hi all, price is no object - just want the best picture quality for recording front and back.

Won’t be hardwiring or using parking mode. Will plug into my Tesla’s 12v outlet.

All the models are very confusing. Is 229 Ultra better than 329s or vice versa?

Thanks!

Hi everyone,

I'm getting a new car soon (Skoda Octavia IV) and I'm currently torn between two flagship setups: the newest VIOFO A329 (or A329S) and the newly revised DDPAI Z90 Master. I do mostly short city trips (grocery runs, commuting), which makes parking mode efficiency a huge priority for me.

I'm leaning towards VIOFO for the video quality, but I have a few major concerns about their ecosystem:

1. Power Drain in Parking Mode: VIOFO's buffered parking mode is notoriously power-hungry. Since I do short trips, a dedicated dashcam battery pack might not even have time to fully recharge between drives. Does the new A329's "Low Power Impact" mode or optimized Time-Lapse actually solve this battery drain issue in real-world usage?
2. SD Card Pickiness: VIOFO seems extremely sensitive to SD cards, practically forcing the use of high-endurance models (like Samsung PRO Endurance) to avoid constant error beeps.
3. Bulkiness: The physical footprint of the main unit is quite large and hard to hide behind the rearview mirror.

On the other hand, the official distributor for DDPAI recently told me about a new revision of the DDPAI Z90 Master. They claim it now features 128GB of built-in eMMC storage and, most surprisingly, Dual 4K Sony STARVIS 2 (IMX678) sensors for BOTH front and rear cameras, plus a CPL filter out of the box.

My questions for both DDPAI and VIOFO users:

• Is the DDPAI claim true? Has anyone actually verified if the rear camera on the newest Z90 Master is a genuine 4K IMX678? Most DDPAI dual setups usually have a basic 1080p rear camera.
• Parking Mode Comparison: How does the DDPAI Z90 Master handle parking mode compared to VIOFO? Since I lack the driving time to charge a dedicated power bank, which camera's parking mode is safer for a standard car battery (or a small capacity power bank) without missing crucial hit-and-run evidence?

Any insights from owners of either system would be greatly appreciated!

I had the A329S installed recently. I thought they were going to hardwire it to the battery, but they used the V12 outlet in the trunk (in case that matters). I was using a dongle to connect to CarPlay and that stopped working after the dash cam was installed so instead I plugged in my phone to use CarPlay. But I’m also having issues with that. It usually doesn’t immediately connect, and often it doesn’t connect at all. Which is especially annoying when I needed it for directions.

Is anyone else having this issue or does anyone know how to fix it? I can go back to the place that installed it, but would like to have an idea of what the issue might be.

Hi to everyone. If there was a similar post please let me know. I'm accessing my home server from anywhere in the world with the similar setup. I don't see any reason not being able to access dashcam as well.

Viofo A329S doesn't have native cloud support or LTE sim module as some other brands have.

But it has wifi station option to connect via wifi network.

Please note remote acces doesn't come for free, you must buy router supporting Tailscale or Wireguard natively and a sim card with a data plan.

Competitive brands have cloud support, easier installation and live notifications straight from the box and Viofo should follow their example.

One of Tailscale supported routers is Teltonika RUTX11.

Pay attention: while device is relatively small it comes wifh 4 antennas and you must find a place to hide it. It has a gps antenna as well so you can track your car.

You can try yourself to find power efficient router. This type of router has to be hardwired. There are routers with internal battery. I found one supporting Tailscale GL.iNet Mudi 7 (GL-E5800) and it costs over 400€ in Europe.

Since I don't have a router in my car I did remote access test by using 2 android phones: one phone acting as a router and a second one to remotely access the dashcam.

It was a huge hassle setting this up and to find a workaround but at the end I succeeded.

This is proof that it works and with router is much easier to do.

There are two ways you can do it. Using Wireguard or using Tailscale. Personally I'm using Wireguard to reach my home server which is much harder to setup but it has a 10-15% faster connection.

Wireguard is usually blocked by CGNAT from your carrier so it has to be bypassed.

I'm running Wireguard on my OMV home server so I can use my home server as 'bridge' to bypass CGNAT and access my dashcam.

You will find that routers supporting Tailscale come with higher price tag.

For simplicity I will stick with Tailscale since you don't need to configure duckdns, port forwarding etc. which Wireguard needs in order to work.

I will try to explain in detail. If you don't understand something please google it or use AI.

Things needed:

Teltonika RUTX11 or any router supporting Tailscale or if you have networking experience go with Wireguard method.

The Power Cable: Teltonika PR2FK20M (or PR2PL15B). Router working voltage is 9-50V

Fuse taps

Low-Voltage Disconnect Module: XH-M609 (Failsafe Protector). This is cutoff for your battery protection.

SIM card

Phone or laptop

HARDWIRING:

When you unbox the Teltonika cable, you will see four thin wires inside. You only need to use two of them:

​🔴 Red Wire (Power +): Connects to your car battery power.

​⚫ Black Wire (Ground -): Connects to the bare metal frame of the vehicle.

​🟢 Green Wire: Not used (Digital Input). Cut and tape off.

​⚪ White Wire: Not used (Digital Output). Cut and tape off.

​1. Find Your Fuses: Open your passenger footwell or dashboard fuse box. Use a multimeter or your vehicle manual to locate an Always-On (Constant/Battery) fuse (e.g., central locking, hazard lights, or interior lights).

​2. Crimp the Connections: Crimp the wire from your Fuse Tap into the Input (+) terminal of the XH-M609 protection module.

​

Attach the Ground: Ground the Black wire from the Teltonika cable and the Input (-) terminal of the XH-M609 module to a bare metal bolt on the car's body frame.

​4. Wire the Router: Connect the Red wire of the Teltonika cable to the Output (+) terminal of the XH-M609 module.

​5. Set the Voltage Limit: Turn the car on to power up the XH-M609 screen. Program the module to open the circuit for examole12.1V. Note that XH-M609 has fine voltage tuning in 0.1V increments.

​Plug it in: Route the cable up into your dashboard, plug the locking 4-pin adapter into the front of the RUTX11, and screw the locking collar tight.

Setting up:

Put your sim inside

Connect Viofo wifi station to router wifi.

Small tip: if your network wifi name displays

eg. Teltonica RUTX11 or any other name with spaces between words Viofo will not display its ip address. Write inside viofo Teltonica_RUTX11 or change the wifi name if router in one simple word.

I had this issue while testing with my phone hotspot. After removing spaces no issues.

Make sure in router settings to find viofo ip address and bind it to static. This way it will always remain the same even after both devices reboot.

Download and install Tailscale app to your phone and sign in with google, github or whatever.

Setup Tailscale by logging in router and follow instructions from Teltonika official website:

https://wiki.teltonika-networks.com/view/Tailscale\_Configuration\_Example

Full user guide to setup the router is on their website as well.

When you are all setup VIOFO ip displayed on the screen is for example 192.168.1.50.

Take your phone or laptop and open Tailscale app, choose your RUTX11 router. You will see on your phone on top of the screen VPN symbol.

Go to your browser and type: http://192.168.1.50

and you will reach the camera UI where you can download videos.

If using VLC for live view just follow Viofo instructions. Make sure when you type you switch your phone to mobile data and turning off your phone wifi. This way you will make sure you truly have remote access while not being on car's wifi.

Now you're virtually inside your car. Any additional device inside your car connected to your car's wifi you'll be able to reach.

If you're a person who likes to access live dashcam video and to invest extra money than great. If this tutorial is a hassle for you consider buying a dashcam which supports cloud, live view etc.

Cons:

Prepare yourself to take sim card and a huge data plan or even better flat internet. Viofo's videos if set to high res and high bitrate are huge. My carrier subscription for flat internet charges 24€/month.

Additional cost for the router + additional hardwire equipment, other types of antennas if the ones from the box can't fit etc.

No live notifications in case of an impact.

Additional battery pack is recommended. Although the router is power efficient while in idle when streaming or downloading and side by side working with dashcam you'll get a significant power draw.

You can't change settings in camera remotely (maybe through ssh, didn't go that deep), maybe you may ask Viofo oficial support. Or at least ask them to implement better web UI with full dashcam settings.

Pros:

You can live view what happens around your car in real time. If you park your car in suspicious neighbourhood and you open VLC live stream you can watch while working.

Downloading of videos.

Automatic backup of all videos to your NAS server. This is interesting since Viofo has no cloud backup. I think other brands offering cloud support have cloud backup for 48 hrs. Some even charge their cloud support plan. You may have even more and in full resolution depending of your NAS ssd drive storage capacity.

You may find additional info how to set this up on:

https://github.com/RobXYZ/viofosync?hl=en-GB

If the router such the one I mentioned in this tutorial has GPS antenna then you have car tracker as well in case your car gets stolen and the router is well hidden.

Maybe in time I will do this project but not for now.

The only safety backup I made in my car is SSD attached to A329S and well hidden if somebody breaks into my car steals the camera. If the car gets stolen which is rare in my town then all I can do is say goodbye.

Thanks for reading.

Hi,

The app update introduced the ability to power off the BP100 remotely. Currently however, anyone with the app can find my BP100 and turn it off.

Are there any plans to update the app to add password protection?

Also could it be possible to have a toggle in software to switch between normal or parking mode regardless of the BP100 being charged or not? My reason/use case for this is its my understanding that the WiFi (if enabled) is turned off in parking mode to save power, but I could switch remotely (inside my house) to normal mode, then access the dashcam via WiFi for settings/file transfer, and then change back after to parking mode.

I was rear-ended today and when I got home I took out the card and plugged into my tablet. First thing I noticed was that my entire drive is saved as individual 3 min files. No big deal, found the one that was at the time of the accident.

Issue: the file ends right as you can see my car move from impact. The next file is my car already on side of road.

What gives? I'm assuming this is my error, perhaps in set up.

Also, the camera is forward facing so we wouldn't see impact from rear. Got my police report and other driver cited. Glad they're okay as well.

Which app is the correct one?

Hi,

The issue is that it just doesn't turn on with my car sometimes. I haven't changed cables or anything about my installation -- my camera was purchased in 2021. If I unplug and replug the cable AFTER I start my car, it always comes on fine. I just don't always remember to do that.

I've been troubleshooting my camera for about 6 months now and I think I might just want to grab a replacement to drop in -- last thing I want is to have an issue and realize my camera was not on.

Unless someone has familiarity with this issue or a really good idea to troubleshoot it, I'd love to hear what other camera I can get to just drop in place of the current one without having to re-run wires. So a mini-USB powered camera ideally.

Thoughts?

Does Viofo still use USPS to ship to US addresses? I have a forwarder service to ship to my address, since they currently don't, but needs to be using USPS or else they return to sender.

How did you guys recently receive yours?

Does anyone else experience difficulties regarding the speed of download? I have had a pair of A129 plus on 2 different vehicles for a couple years now and it has always taken about 5+ minutes to download a 1 minute video (2k 30fps). Phone is a iPhone 13.

I've been looking into dashcams for the past few days and have a question on a setup that I think would be optimal. I don't want to hardwire as my car is a PHEV with a notoriously weak/smaller battery and the voltage doesn't drop very much during charging which has already caused problems with an aftermarket HUD.

I've concluded to either mirror tap or battery pack. The mirrortap is simple enough, a lot of companies like dongar that make harnesses but I would like parking mode so battery seems like the better option. I think I've found a simple enough solution that just uses plain USB cables vs any of the proprietary cables or daisy chaining cables/adapters and wanted to get an ID-Ten-T check.

Car: RAV4 Prime '22 SE, cig lighter port is already occupied by a charging dock which precludes the use of most car-to-battery cables that use that 12V lighter port. Cig lighter splitters and USB-C to 12V adapters exist but I'm leery of them as most seem like temu specials.

Camera: Viofo 329S or 229Ultra, 2 or 3 channel.

Battery: BBMC Powercell 5 which has a USB-C port with input/output and 2 USB-A ports for output.

Plan: USB-C to USC-C cable from my car charging dock to battery, then USB-A to USC-C cable from Battery to Camera

The other setup I was debating was the new Viofo BP100 and a USB-C to 12V cig adapter, then plugging the battery in via that but we're back to daisy-chaining temu adapters.

I'm sure this is operator error, but when I check the voltage of fuses that should be accessory power in my Sierra 3500, they show a positive voltage with the truck turned off and I expected them to be 0V. Fuse F8, which is for the window switch, indicates 12V, but the switch isn't functional. What am I doing wrong?

ETA: I'm testing with the passenger door open. Is that preventing it from truly entering sleep mode and removing power to those fuses?