I was at a card show Sunday and saw multiple under-age kids doing coin flips with vendors. Parents and vendors need to have their heads examined to allow this. Who the hell thinks this is ok? I saw small stakes and hundreds of dollar stakes on one card while the dad looked on. All this does is support gambling addictions and teaches kids that gambling is fun.
Etbs 69
Ex box with 4 packs for $29 or $7.25 per pack?
All 30th at $7+ per pack?
If this continues, I’m out.
I will no longer feel bad for target when I see packs shoplifted out of the package. I’m so tired of this corporate greed, especially when Trump keeps making them richer and us poorer.
One reason why you may be stuck in assembly too long is the obvious answer. There are only so many encapsulation machines. What you may not know though, is that not all of PSA’s satellite grading facilities have encapsulation machines. That means your order goes to PSA in California, then it may get shipped to a satellite location that has no encapsulation machines, where they grade it , and then they have to be shipped to a location that has encapsulation machines.
PSA telling you that they are not making the offers is a load of BS. The offers come from PSA’s website and they did not write all that code and put it on their site for free. PSA and GameStop are both in on the offer together .
The offer comes based upon card ladder, which is owned by PSA. If anyone thinks that PSA and GameStop are not working together on these offers, you’re not using your head.
I wouldn’t be shocked if in the near future that PSA tries to buy GameStop.
PSA does one thing really well, they cover their own butts really well. They tell you a card can be a PSA 10 if it’s a little bit outside of the 45/55 when we know that’s just a cover for when a grader gets it wrong. It’s the same for whitening and other flaws on the card. It gives them an out and an excuse for when a card is graded incorrectly.
I like PSA. I have no problems with any of the above. I don’t jump on and post if a submission is late because I’ve had submissions come back early. I think my grading is done fairly. I don’t accept any offers from PSA and I never will. I just think there are a lot of people in here that just don’t see the big picture. I think PSA grading is the best grading because it’s not too harsh, it’s not too lenient, and it isn’t 100% AI grading. I think this is why their slabs command the most money and they are the most popular by far.
I see this waitress at the bar and all I can think about is how her blouse looks like the mega sharpedo SIR from phantasmal
I called an SFX laser dealer a couple of months ago and was inquiring about a 500 w pulsed laser . I got a quote and they said they could do $1700. That is $2k off msrp. I was stoked and started saving. Hit that $17k last week and went to buy and I guess the demand rose and now it’s msrp. I had jobs lined up that now have to be put off. I’ll lose the jobs rather than going back to that $55 a gallon Home Depot paint stripper.
In the last year, I’ve graded about 350 cards. I was on pace grade 4 to 500 cards in a year until PSA got rid of their bulk tier. I use a microscope, centering tools, a dial caliper for centering if I’m going for a black label and I’ve been doing all this with pretty good success. I know PSA uses a jewelers loop so I decided to buy one and oh my God this cheap ass thing is amazing. It has regular white light, but it also does black light. I know a lot of of my cards got a lower score than expected because I did not properly clean the card. PSA is not gonna wipe away that white spot to see if it was dust I extremely, highly recommend this product. I just need to figure out how to get felt around it so I could run it along the card without potentially scratching it. I went through my next submission once bulk tier comes back and found a couple of cards that should not be graded, but more importantly, I found a lot of cards that just needed to have a better cleaning.
I’m around level 19,250 and I think today was the last straw. They just keep making the game harder and taking things away from us to make it harder today. Should’ve been my daily win completion and all my rewards at the end but I see they are now on a timer because I’m stuck on some hard levels. I did not get any rewards. I purposely try to time it so I get those rewards when there are a bunch of really hard levels in a row because you could usually blast through at least three of them with the rewards. For reference, I’ve never spent a dime on the game and I probably been playing for about seven years. I played a little when it first came out, gave up, then came back to it because I had certain situations where I had to kill time and it is a pretty basic game. This game is at least twice as hard as it was when it first came out and there’s no way I am catching up to the completion screen because they just keep putting out too many new levels too fast over the years they keep taking away moves, they killed the fish reward, the stupid wheel you have to deal with after every turn, it just gets worse and worse. Another big one was how I have to hold my iPad when I play and I cannot be held horizontally. It’s almost like they’re trying to piss us off.
My last bulk submission sent in a couple weeks before they announced the end of bulk submissions went into grading last week ahead of my September 10 completion date submission. Also, My last submission was graded in New Jersey and it was horrendous. I’m praying that my cards are not in New Jersey. My last 200 cards graded I had 4-8’s and more tens than 9s. My last submission of about 30 cards had a seven, 4/8, and more nines than tens and I am pretty damn good at pre-grading cards.
The black label posts are really starting to become annoying. You cannot measure for black label with any app that I know of and I have tried a lot . Black label centering needs to be measured at all 4 corners and not at the center of the edges. Here is what I do to measure.
Scan the card while it is laying completely flat
Blow the card up and Print the card out so it almost completely fills the piece of paper.
Get a dial caliper and measure all 4 corners.
Do math. Do a google search for the formula
If you aren’t willing to do this it will be a crap shoot and you will have a lot more 9.5s than you think.
If it is, what is a realistic price? My GF collects snorlax and would like to give her something special. M
I sent this into BGS . I don’t want to say the grade yet but can anyone that can accurately measure the card take the time to actually measure it and let me know what you get? Thank you
So I hit 120k miles yesterday. I thought I would do the 2k miles leading up to it as a test. Let me add some context to this picture
2.4 mi/kwh is minimum 314 miles per charge
Was done in mostly warmer weather
Was about 60% highway
Was about 60% with the AC on including a minimum of 8 hours just idling with the AC on. Many times I leave the truck running while I’m sitting in it for hours on end at work hence the 95 hour timer.
40–50% with a load in the back of about 400 pounds of furniture ( I deliver furniture with my truck)
50% with me and 1 to 2 passengers delivering the furniture
For the last 36,000 miles or so I charge it to 100% every time I charge. I don’t even bother setting it to 90% anymore.
Truck has had zero service except for a recall a couple years ago. A set of tires and a couple bottles and windshield washer fluid is all this truck has ever consumed.
Nothing broken yet
I rarely drive over 65 miles an hour on the highway and that’s usually where I set my cruise no matter what the speed limit is
I do not baby the truck and attempt to get better mileage. I just don’t go over 65 mph usually.
I charge using my amp Ford charger at home or Electrify America. This truck has never been on a slower charger than that.
I’ve only sent about five cards to Beckett hoping for a 10 because I thought I had 10, or at least 9.5 centering on those cards and did not get 10 centering on any of them except one. I’m going to show you the way you should be checking centering if you’re going for a black label or at least 10 centering.
Scan your card on a scanner that will flatten it out. Do not use your phone camera .
print the card out so it’s almost the size of a sheet of paper.
Take a digital dial caliper and follow the steps in the picture.
Doing it this way is more accurate and safer for the card than any other method I can think of
My Pikachu in the forest car just went into assembly and I’m assuming it’s a nine because there is no up charge warning of a problem order. Am I assuming correctly or could it happen anytime before grades ready?
Hi all, I own a furniture refinishing shop that works with mostly lacquer finishes. Both paint and clear coats. I’m tired of working with this new stripper. Most of the furniture strippers in my area went out of business or are so expensive it is cost prohibitive.
I would like to get a laser stripper to use as a business also, so it would get moderate use eventually when I am proficient to use it on other people’s products.
Can I get a good commercial grade stripper in the $15k range ? What are typical warranties? If something goes wrong , who services it ?
I plan on buying a second dedicated spray booth for ventilation and safety. Is that overkill ?
Is anyone here in my same situation and has video of their machine in action?
Thanks for taking the time 😊