Just wanted to share my bizarrely beautiful Kel-Tec. Custom shirt says Kel-Tec Weird guns for weird people. With an R50 silhouette.
If I look surprised or overly satisfied at the end of all my clips, it's because I only tend to film the test runs and am happy nothing exploded and all my fingers are still intact. Cans and furniture are printed, Super Safeties are self installed as a newb. Etc.
I'm curious if anyone has printed Pizle's MFMD. If so, did you happen to use it with 5.7x28?
I have a Kel-Tec R50 with the Stuff and Things lower that it would look fantastically bizarre and at home on. But it's an 80 hour print and uses a full roll of PA6-CF, so it would be a bummer if it was loud and explody.
Included is a pic of the V0.4 "Can", and the Future Host
Looking for printable AR hanguards like this kinda thing. Any makers on the Sea someone can suggest?
New to the AR-9 world but not new to the 2a world, and could use some advice. I've tried looking around and haven't really found a comparison. I want a roller delayed upper. Either build one with the Maxim Defense roller delay or get the Mat-9k upper. How do they compare? Can a well built standard upper with the Maxim buffer (or some other option) compare with a purpose built upper like the Mat-9?
**EDIT** Found. AWCY! has one on a Glock 17F and the stock is by Unseenkiller
Is there something printable like this out there? I've looked, but haven't really seen anything. It's a CAA EVO brace with mag holder. Brace or stock is fine. Thanks.
Wanted to see what it was like to print a can AFTER I got Form 1 approval. It's interesting. Might do again.
Anyone have experience with this filament? Been using Sunlu, and it's worked well. This stuff is $10 less per kilo. I've used their PLA before and it's been great.
But possessing such a scan would be illegal in Canada and I did not know that as I'm not from there. I joined the sub because you guys always seem to have interesting firearms posted.
I will post pictures of one that is legal in my country (for now). I hope you enjoy the aesthetics anyway. It is a .22lr bolt action with a 20" Keystone arms match bull barrel and an AR15 Fire control group.
I know this is an odd request, but I'm hoping someone in this sub has a 3d scanner. I need a scan of the bolt of a Ruger American Rimfire or Ruger Precision rimfire without the extractor or the extractor retaining ring/spring. It doesn't have to be crazy hi-res. I have a 3d printed .22 bolt action rifle and the extractor system for it is not working right. The system in the Ruger Precision rimfire looks pretty simple and effective, and easy to implement. The scan would help me with how and where to put the cutouts for the spring ring and the extractor itself.
Any help would be appreciated.
I'll add pics of the rifle so that I at least contribute a little to the sub. :)
20" Keystone Arms 10/22 Bull Barrel
Dirty Bird AR-15 FCG
Monstrum Beast 6-24x50 Scope
Everything else, except for nuts, bolts, and springs, ejector, and the extractor, has been 3d printed.
If any of you happen to have a decent 3d scan of the Ruger American (or precision) Rimfire bolt without the extractor and placement spring installed (the one that holds the extractor) I would greatly appreciate it. I've looked around online for a reference model and haven't been able to find one. I want to see if I can adapt the extraction system for use in a 3d printed bolt action rifle that is having issues with the designed extractor system.
Thanks in advance.
So far so good with this can. Have about 100 rounds through it. No FRT, but some quicker shooting.
What spring is recommended for the wisp extractor. The one I'm using seems a bit weak. Rounds aren't bulging any more, but it extracts when it should about 5% of the time. On the second attempt about 40% of the time, the rest of the time I'm using a jeweler's screwdriver.
Before I sand on the bolt face any more, I want to make sure I have the right spring.
Built a budget 300blk AR15. Printed the furniture in polymaker pro plum metallic.
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The can is the FTN.5 Rifle baffled
Waiting on polished charging handle and dust cover then I have a few hours on the buffing wheel ahead of me.
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What AR barrel nut would I use for most 3d printed handguards I find online? Or is this something I just need to modify on my prints? If so, what is an easy one to modify for?
Thanks.
How snug is that spring supposed to fit? Should it just drop in? I ordered the one from McMasters from the pdf and it is a tight fit, even after some sanding.
Wisp is a bolt action rifle. From the last picture of the belly roll on my .22lr casing, it's obviously a headspace issue. But the bolt seems to mate up nicely with the barrel. It is a 10/22 barrel using the adapter. Will load and eject unspent rounds beautifully. What should I be filing/sanding? The barrel adapter? Bolt face reinforcement?
Any help is appreciated.
I've searched but couldn't find an answer. Can I clean my FTN Rimfire cans? I know .22lr is dirty and not sure if the cans get crud build-up. Should I periodically clean them? If so, with what? Or does the build-up protect the internals?
Wisp with Whiskops lower and STNKR handguards.
20" Keystone barrel, print-a-22 reinforcements for bolt, and metal trigger and hammer. Otherwise all printed. Will be testing sometime this week.
Sunlu PA6-CF
CC3D TPU 57D Purple
Deeplee Black Galaxy PLA
I just watched a video about making stronger models by adding alternate extra wall, infill layer line width to be 2x the inner wall line width (.4 inner wall / .8 infill) and 100% concentric infill.
The alternate wall will add an extra wall every other layer (2/3/2/3/2) and this will move the .8mm concentric infill pattern over by .4mm. This will have each layer fill in the gaps between the infill lines below it.
Seems legit. Posting a link to the youtube vid. If that's not allowed, my apologies and please delete.