Travelling in AC compartments of Indian Railways is genuinely one of the best travel experiences in the country if you know how to handle it. Here's everything I've learned from years of long hauls.
LUGGAGE
Travel with only one or two bags if you're alone. If you're with family, keep it to a minimum. If you're moving a lot of clothes, just happily dump them in an empty rice bag, plaster it shut and send it as a parcel. You'll thank yourself when you're not wrestling three suitcases through a crowded platform at 2am.
HYGIENE — yours and everyone else's
Maintain shoe bags. This is non-negotiable. Better yet, just wear sandals instead of shoes for the journey. Nobody wants to smell your socks in an enclosed AC compartment.
If you're eating, use the paper packaging of the blankets or a newspaper as a mat. Food falling on the seat is disgusting for the next passenger. Takes two seconds of effort.
If you're eating groundnuts, ask the vendor for an extra paper satchel to collect the shells. Then walk to the door and throw it in the garbage.
Don't wash your dishes in the washbasin. This is not your kitchen. Wipe them with tissues and wash at home.
Carry toilet paper. The faucets in trains rarely have enough pressure. Also, as an AC passenger you are actually entitled to toilet paper — contact Rail Madad and they'll provide it. And please wrap your used tissues before binning them. Nobody needs to see that. Ladies on their periods — same principle for sanitary pads.
YOUR BERTH IS YOUR KINGDOM
Always carry your own lightweight blanket. The bedding they provide is fine as a mattress but not great as a blanket. Use your own to cover the pillow too so your face isn't directly on a pillow that a thousand people have used before you.
Be firm but polite when someone asks for your side lower. Don't feel shy to say no. You booked it, you paid for it, you have every right to enjoy it.
Middle berth passengers — don't keep your berth folded down all day. Lower berth passengers need to sit. The unspoken rule is roughly 10am to 10pm, berth stays up.
NOISE AND COMMON SENSE
Always use earphones. Always. Nobody wants to hear your YouTube reels.
If someone is playing loud music, give them at least two polite chances before escalating. Most people genuinely don't realise how loud they are.
If you have to take a long call, walk to the door area. The entire compartment is not your private phone booth.
Until about 9 or 10pm, tolerate the lights, the talking, the sitting passengers. That's just daytime train life. Only after that is it reasonable to ask for quiet and lights off.
If people are snoring, there is genuinely nothing you can do. Use your earphones. Complaining will only make you more miserable.
DEALING WITH DIFFICULT PEOPLE
Be civil and also brave. If someone is being uncivil, don't immediately escalate into a shouting match. Politely ask them to behave. If that doesn't work, report on Rail Madad. No direct confrontation needed.
If you're travelling with women and there's a rowdy group causing trouble, don't start a direct confrontation. Tell them there's a lady travelling and ask them to be real men. Most of these types actually respond to that logic better than anything else. If they still don't, be firm and authoritative without raising your voice. Only loop in Rail Madad if they escalate further.
Never start a confrontation with a group directly. Numbers change the math.
RULES ARE RULES
You can only use DigiLocker or a physical original ID as proof. If a TTE fines you for not carrying valid ID, pay it and move on. Don't harass them. These rules exist to prevent large scale fraud and the TTE is just doing their job.
Water bottle vendors will try to charge you five rupees extra. Don't argue, don't bargain for five minutes. Take the bottle, tell them you'll pay by UPI, pay the MRP and ask them to move on. They will. If they're genuinely desperate about the five rupees, use your gut. But no arguments.
SMOKING
Just get Nicotex. I'm a smoker. Two gums comfortably gets me through a 20 hour journey without a single cigarette. Genuinely.
FINALLY
Be helpful but not a pushover. If someone genuinely needs a seat exchange, use your judgement. Always inform the TTE when you switch. Don't be so entitled that you can't read when someone is in real need, but don't let people guilt trip you either.
Be polite to the cleaning staff. When they come to sweep, hold your garbage, walk the three steps to the door and throw it in the bin yourself.
If the train is overcrowded and even the AC coach is packed — you are living in the wrong state and you have my deepest sympathies.