The Albania Itinerary I’d Recommend
I spent nearly three weeks backpacking through Albania in May, travelling entirely by bus before continuing into Montenegro.
I’ll be honest…
Albania didn’t become my favourite country in the Balkans.
There were moments where I struggled to connect with it, and I actually enjoyed Montenegro more overall. But looking back, I’m incredibly glad I visited.
Some of my favourite memories weren’t necessarily the famous attractions. They were conversations in hostel gardens, wandering UNESCO old towns, swimming in crystal-clear water and meeting some of the kindest hostel owners I’ve come across while travelling.
If I were doing the trip again, this is exactly how I’d do it.
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Overall Thoughts
As a solo female traveller, I generally felt safe throughout Albania. I walked around during the day and in the evenings without any major concerns.
People were welcoming, food was affordable and transport was much easier than I expected.
One thing I didn’t expect was just how different each destination felt. Tirana, Berat, Himarë and Shkodër all had completely different personalities.
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Should You Rent a Car?
If your budget allows it…
Yes.
This is probably the one thing I’d do differently.
I travelled entirely by bus and while Albania’s bus network is surprisingly good, having a car would have made the Riviera so much more enjoyable.
You’ll be able to stop at beautiful little villages like:
* Dhërmi
* Vuno
* Qeparo
* Borsh
instead of simply driving past them.
If you’re travelling solo, I’d even recommend finding people at your hostel to split a rental car for a few days.
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Buses
Despite what you’ll read online, buses in Albania are actually quite straightforward.
The schedules just aren’t published very well.
Every hostel I stayed at knew exactly:
* where buses departed from
* what time they left
* roughly how much they cost
Most of the time I simply asked reception the night before and never had any issues.
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Food & Budget
One thing I loved about Albania was how affordable it was.
Most local meals cost between €2-4, so I rarely cooked.
Coffee was usually around €1-2.
The only places where I noticed prices increase were:
* Himarë
* Sarandë
which makes sense considering they’re Albania’s biggest beach destinations.
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Cash
Carry cash.
Many hostels still prefer cash payments and smaller restaurants occasionally do too.
I’d recommend withdrawing larger amounts rather than making lots of small ATM withdrawals.
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Tirana ⭐⭐☆☆☆
This will probably be my most unpopular opinion.
Personally… Tirana just didn’t click for me.
I know plenty of travellers who absolutely loved it, so take this with a grain of salt.
I found it busy and chaotic, and it never really captivated me the way some of Albania’s smaller towns did.
That said…
A lot of people’s experience seems to depend on where they stay.
Hostel Recommendations
If you’re travelling solo, I’d recommend:
* Trip’n Hostel
* Blue Door Hostel
* Bearded Dad Hostel
All three have great reputations for being social and organising activities.
Many backpackers I met ended up extending their stay simply because they loved the hostel atmosphere.
Things to do
* Skanderbeg Square
* Bunk’Art
* Blloku
* Dajti Cable Car
I’d personally spend 2-3 days maximum.
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Berat ⭐⭐⭐⭐☆
Berat was where Albania really started to grow on me.
Known as the City of a Thousand Windows, it’s one of Albania’s UNESCO World Heritage sites and is incredibly photogenic.
Unlike Tirana, Berat has a much slower pace.
It’s the kind of place where the best afternoons are spent wandering narrow streets before sitting down for a coffee overlooking the river.
Stay
Berat Backpackers Hostel
A lovely backpacker hostel with a beautiful garden and relaxed communal atmosphere.
It wasn’t the most social hostel of my trip, but it was incredibly easy to meet people naturally.
Things to do
* Berat Castle
* Mangalem Quarter
* Gorica Bridge
* Onufri Museum
* Sunset viewpoints
Don’t rush Berat.
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Gjirokastër ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
This ended up being one of my favourite places in Albania.
The stone streets, mountain backdrop and Ottoman architecture make it unlike anywhere else in the country.
The town itself only needs around 1-2 days, but…
I actually stayed 3 nights because I loved my hostel so much.
Stay
Stone City Hostel
Quite possibly my favourite hostel in Albania.
The owner and volunteers created such a warm, welcoming atmosphere that I genuinely didn’t want to leave.
If you’re travelling solo, I’d highly recommend staying here.
Things to do
* Gjirokastër Castle
* Old Bazaar
* Skenduli House
* Zekate House
* Sunset over the rooftops
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Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër)
This may be controversial…
I actually wouldn’t prioritise it.
Yes, it’s beautiful.
But it’s also:
* crowded
* touristy
* heavily regulated
You can no longer swim there, which took away a lot of its appeal for me.
Personally, I’d save my nature day for Theth and the Blue Eye in northern Albania, which felt far more immersive.
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Optional: Përmet
I didn’t visit Përmet myself, but almost everyone I met who did absolutely loved it.
It’s known for:
* natural hot springs
* rafting
* excellent local food
* a quieter atmosphere than the Riviera
If you have an extra couple of days, I’d definitely consider adding it.
Sarandë ⭐⭐⭐☆☆
Sarandë is probably Albania’s most famous beach destination.
Personally…
It wasn’t my favourite.
I can completely understand why people enjoy it. The water is stunning, there are endless restaurants along the promenade and it has a fun holiday atmosphere.
But compared to Himarë, I found it far more commercialised. It reminded me a little of Ibiza or a typical Mediterranean resort town.
I visited in May and even then it was busy. I can only imagine how crowded it gets during July and August.
Most of the beaches in town are occupied by paid sunbeds, although we did find a small public section near Bora Bora Beach Bar.
Things to do
* Walk the promenade
* Swim if you can find a public section
* Visit Lekursi Castle (personally I found it underwhelming as it’s now largely a restaurant with viewpoints)
If you’re choosing between Sarandë and Himarë…
I’d choose Himarë every time.
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Himarë ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
This was easily my favourite stretch of coastline in Albania.
If you’re travelling for beaches, crystal-clear water and a more relaxed atmosphere…
Spend your time here.
Some of the most beautiful beaches I visited were:
* Filikuri Beach ⭐
* Aquarium Beach ⭐
* Livadhi Beach
The water is absolutely stunning.
Stay
I stayed at Natural Hostel.
The owner was genuinely lovely and the hostel had a nice communal atmosphere.
Unfortunately, the facilities just weren’t for me. The bathrooms felt quite basic, shower pressure was weak and overall comfort wasn’t quite what I was looking for.
If I visited again, I’d stay at:
* Himara Downtown Hostel
* Oasis Hostel
* Trip’n Hostel (if you’re after a younger, more social crowd)
Things to do
* Beach hop
* Explore Himarë Old Town
* Sunset by the waterfront
* Rent a kayak or paddleboard
* Drive to nearby villages if you have a car
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Vlorë ⭐⭐⭐⭐☆
After several days on the coast, I decided to stay in Vlorë’s city centre rather than near the beach.
I’m really glad I did.
It gave me a completely different side of Albania to experience and was the perfect place to slow down for a couple of days.
Stay
Queen V Hostel
One of my favourite hostel stays in Albania.
The hostel is part of Nico’s family home and genuinely feels like a home away from home.
Spotlessly clean, comfortable and incredibly welcoming. I actually extended my stay because I enjoyed it so much.
Things to do
* Wander the Old Town
* Visit Independence Square
* Cycle around the city
* Walk the waterfront
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Shkodër ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Probably the biggest surprise of my trip.
I expected Shkodër to simply be the gateway to Theth.
Instead…
It became one of my favourite cities in Albania.
Beautiful pedestrian streets, colourful Italian-style buildings and a much more relaxed atmosphere than Tirana.
Walking Tour
Book a GuruWalk.
Honestly one of the best walking tours I’ve done while travelling.
Learning about northern Albania’s history gave me a completely different appreciation for the city.
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Komani Lake & Shala River
Absolutely worth it.
I booked through GetYourGuide because I wanted a guide explaining the history and geography throughout the journey.
The real highlight is the boat ride through Komani Lake.
Shala River itself has become fairly developed for tourism, but it’s still an incredibly scenic day out and we managed to find a quiet spot to relax and dip our feet into the freezing water.
If you’re in Shkodër…
I’d definitely recommend doing this tour.
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Theth & Valbona
If you enjoy hiking, this is Albania’s most iconic adventure.
Most people organise everything directly through their hostel.
I’d recommend doing the same as you’ll travel with other backpackers rather than random tour groups.
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Hostel Recommendations
Wanderers Hostel
Probably the most social hostel in Shkodër. Great younger crowd, communal dinners (included!) and easy to meet people. The only downside is that the hostel is spread across multiple buildings, so where you’re allocated can affect your experience.
Shkodra Hostel & Day Tours
This is where I stayed.
Modern, comfortable, fantastic café downstairs and excellent facilities. A great choice if you want comfort while still having a social atmosphere.
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My Favourite Hostels
🏡 Best Overall: Stone City Hostel (Gjirokastër)
🤝 Most Social: Wanderers Hostel (Shkodër)
🌿 Most Relaxing: Queen V Hostel (Vlorë)
🌸 Best Garden: Berat Backpackers
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Things I’d Skip Next Time
* Blue Eye near Sarandë (beautiful but very crowded)
* Spending more than 1-2 days in Sarandë
* Choosing accommodation based only on facilities instead of atmosphere
* Trying to optimise every stop instead of slowing down
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Things I’d Do Differently
* Rent a car for at least part of the Riviera.
* Spend longer in Shkodër.
* Base myself in Himarë instead of Sarandë if beaches were my priority.
* Explore more of the small villages like Dhërmi, Vuno and Qeparo.
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Suggested Routes
5-7 Days
* Tirana
* Berat
* Himarë
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10 Days
* Tirana
* Berat
* Gjirokastër
* Himarë
* Vlorë
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2 Weeks
* Tirana
* Berat
* Gjirokastër
* Optional: Përmet
* Sarandë
* Himarë
* Vlorë
* Shkodër
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3 Weeks
* Tirana
* Berat
* Gjirokastër
* Përmet
* Sarandë
* Himarë
* Vlorë
* Shkodër
* Theth
* Valbona
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Final Thoughts
Looking back, I realised my favourite memories weren’t necessarily the famous attractions.
They were conversations in hostel gardens, owners who welcomed guests like family, wandering old towns with a coffee in hand and spontaneous swims in unbelievably clear water.
Albania isn’t a country I’d rush through.
Slow down.
Stay an extra night if you’re enjoying a hostel.
Talk to people.
Take the recommendation from the volunteer who’s lived there for a month.
And if your budget allows…
Rent a car.
I genuinely think that’s the one thing that would have made my trip even better.
Lastly, don’t judge Albania by Tirana alone.
For me, the country truly came alive in Berat, Gjirokastër, Himarë and Shkodër—and those are the places I’d return to in a heartbeat.