I was wondering, if im composing for a game are there any particular things id need to do differently vs making music for its own sake? how much memory does the game code usually take up? do i need to leave channels open for sound fx or can the game sort out the voice stealing automatically?
Ok so if you recently got into modular, have holes in your case, and were about post in here asking what to stick in your holes, here's what you should do
if you have a specific task in mind that you built this system to do - say for example you want a drum machine with generative sequencing and flexible voices with alot of modulation, or maybe you want a super powerful sound design tool for the studio, or you want a really crazy custom guitar effects processor - whatever that specific purpose is, go right now and try to use your system for that purpose with the modules you already have. as youre making music with the system, just take note of any specific pain points in the process and maybe jot down a few ideas of what youd want your system to do differently. then when/if you come back here, instead of asking "what should i buy next" you can ask for advice for working around the specific problems you were having during your creative process.
as a general rule, a eurorack system is nicer to use when it has the fewest possible modules required to fill the task at hand, this allows you the space to use bigger modules for each function, use blank panels to space out controls, and even include things like joysticks, touch plates, or big dials which can all improve the ergonomics of your system significantly.
If you do NOT have a specific purpose planned for your system you probably shouldnt buy anything more until you think of one. If youre just buying random modules that look cool without having any overall plan, its very likely that you end up with... a random pile of modules with no overall plan. you might get some good beeps out of that but youll likely be frustrated if you come to this tool hoping to get some work done.
Processing a 15min long file and the software cashed, when i reopened it this is what the interface looked like... I did try deleting the exe and redownloading from Github but still borked. I've never seen a piece of software get permanently disfigured like this before idk what to do
Been trying to exit a very long dry spell, and I think Tape 16 has contributed a bit to getting me out of my rut! My usual process is to write chords and melodies first, and then fill in the rest of the arrangement in the DAW after I have a full song laid out, but since nothing has been coming for a while i decided to just program a handful of drum machine patterns, arrange them into a vaguely song-like shape, and record the whole drum track into the machine without any idea where I was going. from there I just layered tracks one by one, the more parts I had the more obvious the next step became each time. I really like this method, It's nice to have a technique I can use to make music even when I dont feel inspired.
I recorded and mixed everything in Tape 16, with help from Adobe Audition for eliminating the annoying buzz noise coming from the old Keyboard I was using for a few parts. Only used free plugins cause that's all I have money for right now.
Ok so when i record songs i use a polyend tracker synchronized to my DAW's midi clock for sequencing all my synths, but since i usually have more parts written than i have synths for i usually have to layer up many overdubs to get the full arrangement. The problem is that my midi clock is a bit sloppy somewhere in the chain, so the timing of everything often feels really loose after ive layered five or so tracks. Ive found i can mask this problem a bit in a few ways, i usually always track the drums and bassline together so they are locked to the same clock, and for my chords and leads ill either program sounds with a softer attack to hide the sloppy timing, or i just play it by hand and edit a bit if im really desperate.
Id like to be able to work more freely without having to think about my technical limitations, but right now i dont want to (and cant) just buy a dozen synths so that i could just record the entire track in one shot without overdubbing.
for reference: My PC is an old i7 laptop from like 2019, I track mostly in Tape16, mix/edit in Bitwig, my Interface is a Zoom L8 (which tops off at 48k), and i connect the Polyend Tracker to the laptop direct thru USB C.
Currently running an old ZOOM L8 mixer/interface, and every single input is currently occupied. Later this year ill be moving to a bigger flat with a dedicated music room, and id like to add some more instruments to the setup as well as upgrade a few to stereo inputs. Id also like to switch to a rackmount solution, im tired of having a mixer on my desk taking up space when i dont ever use it for mixing.
I only record at 48k, 24bit currently and see no need to increase either number, so could i just get a pair of cheap used 8-in boxes with optical i/o and link them with that? would they need to be the same model/brand in order to work like that? if i cant connect them would there be any problems with running the both thru separate USB's?
Soo i had some struggle with this, but i finally got it working reliably so i figured I'd share here
When i first connected my Tracker to Tape-16 i had an issue with my sequencer lagging almost a 32nd note behind the metronome. I messed around with the recording offset in T16 and tried every clock correction setting on the Tracker, but everything i did still resulted in a quite noticeable lag behind the beat.
What ended up fixing the issue was setting Transport to USB in the "Midi" page of the Global Settings menu. this means the T16 will start the Tracker's sequencer when you press play in T16, ensuring the two clocks start on the same pulse. After i did this i was able to set the Clock Correction and Recording Offset both to 0 again with no problem, but you may still have to tweak these settings a bit if you still have a slight lag. Sometimes the sequencer also will hang up on the first few steps of the sequence the moment you press play, but you can avoid this by just adding a blank measure at the very start of the Song page to give the Tracker time to find the tempo
Still in A1.2 at the Sprachschule so pls forgive my use of english. Recently escaped the US with the help of my bf, and desperately need some friends🙏
I love synth music and progressive rock, would love to join/start a band. Big-time gamer, playing alot of Splatoon 3, and looking for people to do a Mario Kart DS party. also would love to join a group that plays tabletop RPGs!
if anybody knows of some fun places in Hamburg to hang out pls let me know. my DMs are also open to anyone here
Ahh so i burnt out the stock motor in my Micro B, ordered the "Eco Power" 45t motor as a replacement, but after getting it installed and doing a dry run to test it the set screw on the supplied pinion gear backed itself out and flew off never to be seen again. I have a motor mount that allows me to get the motor on and off the gearbox without removing the pinion, so i could just glue it on permanently with no issue. I just dont know what adhesive to use for this purpose, ive never had to glue metal to metal before.
any help would be greatly appreciated!
BF just got me this and I adore it. Its a 4X4 with street tires and barely any ground clearance, But its pretty fun to climb hills with it just because its so pathetic that it feels like a huge achievement when it accomplishes *anything* (said with love, i swear 🤣)
BUT now that im kind of attached to it I wanna make sure i can keep it running for a long while. All the electronics are pretty standard for 24th scale cars, but im not sure about the suspension and the rest of the drivetrain. at a glance it seems like a bit of a mish mash of parts copied from Axial and FMS crawlers, but i dont have any trucks from those brands to actually test compatibility.
Has anyone done any successful repairs on one of these JXC vans? Would any of the metal upgrade parts from the big brands fit this thing? Will i need to invest in a 3D printer and roll my own parts?
Shredded a gear inside my stock transmission and was also having issues with the plastic casing leaking oil, so I decided to just upgrade to the full metal gears and aluminum casing from Injora. After getting it put together i noticed the Diff gears were binding and i couldnt turn the wheels separate from each other. i was able to mitigate this slightly by backing off the screws holding the transmission casing together, but it still feels kinda gritty when i turn the wheels separately.
Is this something to worry about or am i just paranoid?
Sooo I want to bring my system to a synth jam at the end of the month, and i dont want to pack an external sequencer.
Initially the plan was to feed Amnis with a pair of clock-synced LFOs to generate a gate pattern and pitch CV, assuming that if it fed it something simple and repetitive, the output would be a simple repetitive pattern. The problem is that after several hours of tinkering, I have yet to find a patch that produces anything but random mess. I know there are several modules that can generate techno basslines in various different ways, but dont have the money or desire right now to buy any new modules.
Does anyone know a way that I can work with what I have to make basslines on the fly that have a consistent and interesting rhythmic pattern?
EDIT: I found my problem!!! Initially I was Patching the Midi clock from my case into the Clock input of Amnis, then id take an LFO channel from Stages, synced to a Dotted 16th note division of the clock, and feed that to the Data input of Amnis. The output of this would be a steady syncopated pulse with no pitch variation, which i thought was boring so id patch one of Amnis' own gate outputs into the XOR input to spice up the pattern. Apparently this feedback patching was the source of the unpredictability! i went back and fed the XOR input with a gate sequence from another module and now i can get interesting, repeating pitch and gate patterns out of the amnis.
... either that or i over-volted the ESC?? not sure, but it stopped getting throttle and the motor was hot after like 5 mins walking the path to the skatepark. acceleration is trashed but the grip on loose dirt is much improved over stock tires and the higher ground clearance is nice for getting over stuff that would scrape the chassis otherwise.
if you wanna try this at home, i think this would seriously whip if it had much more torque at the same speed. would love to see someone run where i have crawled
Monster truck wheels from Injora just came in the mail... didnt check the dimensions before i ordered 😅😅😅
still waiting on parts to fix the gearbox so no test run yet, but if i remember Ill post an update with how these compare performance-wise to the stock tires.
eventually I wanna swap to the longer Micro B chassis and put a panel van body on it to turn this into a sort of Vanessa's Lunchbox tribute, but still looking for a job in my new city so that has to wait