u/Livid_Strategy6311

Based on what I see/read is it incorrect to infer that the majority of Prusa users print only one or two colors generally?

I'm coming over from BL using the AMS 2 Pro (which is not very well made IMHO but works).

I notice that Prusa doesn't have an all in one multi material feeder/dryer other than printables.

Personally, it's rare for me to print more than 2 colors and only briefly played with it to print toys in 4 colors for my grands.

One of the features I really liked was the ability to dry 4 spools while printing and not having to do much in order to feed filament.

Prusa doesn't appear to spend time on features/things that the community doesn't need or want and appears to be focused on more experienced customers rather than the entry level consumer. They also appear to focus more on quality/durability.

I see a lot of mods for the "advanced" C1 filter.

My BL P2S had the exhaust fan with a filter mod and it didn't work very well. I added a vento box (internal filter that can re-circulate or filter exhaust) and stopped having issues.

What do most C1 owners use for Nylon, ABS..etc ? The printer will be installed in my office.

I don't want to punch holes in my new printer (when it arrives).

Note: The Hive filter mod looks interesting but might be overkill? idk.. I'll go with what the community says works.

Most of the time I just print with pre-defined presets and the prints are decent.

Sometimes I really want to maximize quality and speed so I do a full set of calibrations. My attitude is that if I'll take the time to do a calibration I'll calibrate everything I can think of, save the presets and record the settings for that filament.

Here's a list of what I do and wonder if others do anything differently?

1. Temperature Tower
2. Maximum Volumetric Speed
3. Pressure Advance (Flow Dynamics)
4. Flow Ratio
5. Retraction Distance
6. Bridges - Cooling/Speed
7. Overhangs - Cooling/Speed
8. Ironing
9. Fuzzy Skin

I'm wondering which slicer most Prusa Owners use. I'm coming over from Bambu Studio and find Prusa Slicer to be very different. Beginner mode really does a great job of stripping away thngs the average user really doesn't need to worry with.

I'm asking because there's a bit of an adjustment to change slicers and I don't want to learn them all.

The user manual for the mk3s i3 I'm buying states that support is available for owners which purchased through prusa or their distributors(paraphrased). Is this transferable? The printer isn't under warranty and I don't need anything right now. Just asking.

I'm going through the manuals and I'm not seeing info on parts replacement i.e. disassembly / re- assembly.

The owner says it needs a power cord and there's a wire in the tool head that needs crimping/soldering ( they thought it could be a thetmister wire).

I can take care of those two issue. What other things should I know before firing this thing up?

I plan to download and read the manual for it before powering on and downloading the latest firmware.

This will have to do until my C1L arrives.

Ty in advance

Edit: I'm at the pre-flight part of the assembly manual. Whomever wrote this had a great sense of humor. Easy read and lots of detail. I should be able to disassemble, fix, and re-assemble the toolhead without issue. I'll have to pick up some Haribo Bears to catch up lol.

Lol. My C1L won't arrive until sometime in June. I don't have a printer at all because I rehomed my previous one. What an I to do??!!??? Lol.

I've been asked to just use Prusa3d for Core One L posts.

Thank you to the folks who came over to help. I'll be shutting it down.

New Subreddit for the Core One L - Please come on over and support it.

Core One L Subreddit Link

I've created a channel for the core one L after I was asked to post C1L info in the main prusa channel..

https://www.reddit.com/r/PrusaCoreOneL/

Hi, I print mostly hydroscopic filaments (PCTG/ABS and will be getting into PPA (nylon)) and will need to build/find cheap an enclosed multi spool filament dehumidifer and feeder.

I'm not able to find a multiple spool filament dehumidifer and feeder kits, designs or a guide for how to integrate/make one if I diy it.

Does anyone have links or video on how to do this? it will be a while before I can drop $1000 on the Indx system (which isn't available yet anyway) after spending over $2700 for the printer (which is probably 5 weeks away LOL).

My bambi p2s went to a new home yesterday so I'm now printerless. I hope my C1L arrives early because I feel withdrawels coming on LOL.. 3-4 weeks plus 1 week shipping... not sure I'll make it..

• Two days ago I ordered the Core One L with the advanced filter. Delivery date is estimated to be 3-4 weeks plus the 4-6 days for shipping (cheaped out on shipping due to the cost).
• I'm coming over from another brand that's competitive from a print quality standpoint and consider the Prusa printers to be an upgrade for many other reasons.
• I'm working to learn the printer before receiving it but, access to the academy is locked until I take delivery so I'm looking for other resources if anyone has a list or reference.
• Most of my printing will likely be lower temperature filaments (PLA, PETG, PCTG) but I plan to do a fair amount of higher temperature filaments (for outdoors + strength). I already print ABS/ASA and will be moving up to PA-6/12.
• For engineering filaments do we need to exhaust to the outside? If so, how is that accomplished? I've ordered the advanced filter.
• For hotter engineering filaments like PC should we use a thin layer of insulation on the side panels to help retain heat or are there better ways?
• Is there a place I can ask more direct questions/concerns?
• Which slicer is most used by more experienced users? I'm used to calibrating filament to get the most out of it. The Prusa printers do most of the heavy lifting but I'd like the option to tweak it.

Thanks in advance.

Is this the correct channel for the Core One L ?

Finally placed the order. Shipping was painful to pay for but it's done.

3-4 weeks + 5 days shipping

• I'm selling my other <undisclosed> brand printer to move into a Prusa.
• I'm planning to eventually get the INDX system and am debating between the Core One+ and the Core One+ L.
• I'm struggling to justify the extra $1000 for the extra build size when I look at a Voron Cube 300x300x300 that's just a tad over $1200 for the LDO kit.
• If the Core One+ L were available as a kit I'd go that route as a cost savings.
• Am I missing something?
• I'm capable of assembling, tuning, calibrating, programming..etc. a Kit Printer.

Thanks in advance.

Please don't get into Brand vs Brand. This is just a generic discussion.

This is a serious question. I see a lot of brand loyalty on Reddit which is a good thing. It seems to me that most if not all 3d printers, when compared to others in the same class/type are pretty much the same other than small things/accessories.

At the end of the day they all melt plastic with specified parameters in layers to form objects.

As an example lets compare two fictional printers.

• Both are enclosed.
• Both have about the same usable life before needing to be rebuilt (new bearings..etc)
• one has a dedicated heater while the other one doesn't, it uses the heat bed to achieve enclosure temperature.
• Printer one is $100 more while an enclosure heater for printer 2 is $100.
• Both have the same basic specs, fans, speeds, nozzle temps, bed temp, type XY...etc

what would make either printer better than the other with the desired outcome is to melt plastic into objects.

I'm curious as to why the frame doesn't have any angular bracing to solidify the frame and maintain square? Especially with the tall vertical corners.

Just curious more than anything. I've not seen anyone complain about the frame being square unless the extrusion ends aren't correctly/squarely cut.

I ordered some PTFE tubes with the correct ID.

• My print quality dropped dramatically despite the ID being more than sufficient for the filament.

• For whatever reason I found 2 issues:

  1. Higher filament resistance where the filament was often unable to feed from the AMS.
  2. The PTFE is stiffer than the standard BL PTFE causing the PTFE tube to hit the top and side more often without a good way to resolve it.
  3. Higher stress at the connection at the top of the print head due to not being able to bend and flex to the desired angle.

I'm sure there are 3rd party PTFE tubes that will work, however, the ad on Amazon listed as being compatible.

Just a PSA