Kaleido owners – finally clicked that these aren’t “real” drum roasters (and it’s changing how I’m approaching profiles)
Hey everyone,
I’ve been roasting on a Kaleido M1 Lite for a bit now and it finally sank in (though it should have been obvious from the start): Kaleido roasters are not full-throated traditional drum roasters. The stainless mesh/perforated drum is deliberately designed to let a lot of direct radiant + convective heat through the slots in addition to whatever conductive heat the thin drum itself is carrying. Result is lower thermal mass and a much more hybrid character than a solid, heavy drum. They just don’t behave the same way a classic drum does, especially in how heat transfers and how the bean mass responds once you’re past the drying phase.
Because of that, a lot of the classic drum-roaster intuition (charge temps, power curves, how you expect RoR to settle through Maillard, etc.) needs adjustment.
I’m still pretty new to roasting and I’m trying to get a cleaner grip on these 150 g batches this weekend. Right now, on average natural-process Brazil I’ve been charging around 155 °C / 310 °F with an initial burner setting of 50–55%. The RoR through Maillard has been a bit of a struggle to keep smooth, and I’m still getting the classic crash + flick right at or just after first crack.
Would love to hear from other Kaleido (especially M1/M1 Lite) users:
- What charge temperatures are you actually landing on for similar density/natural Brazils (or other origins)?
- What initial burner percentages are you starting with, and how aggressively do you step the heat once the beans are in?
- How are you managing power and airflow to keep the smoothest possible RoR through Maillard and into development without the crash/flick?
Any profiles, power curves, or “this is what finally worked for me on the mesh drum” notes would be hugely appreciated. Trying to dial these in before the weekend roasts.
Thanks in advance.