Not too obtrusive. $300 installed. (This is how the dealers make their profit for sure! But I didn’t want to deal with trying to self-install, and the guards themselves were already an eye-watering $200 for four.) I wanted to reduce road salt on my car so I was willing to pay.
After a couple months of experimenting, I might have my dealer look at my A/C—but not if weak A/C (in the driver’s seat) is normal even at the strongest possible settings.
The cooling has been.. adequate. Parked in the sun on a 90° day, my car will take the edge off the heat within minutes. It doesn’t get particularly cool in the cabin no matter how I set it, but nor am I suffering. I don’t even WANT a wasteful inefficient blast of cold that often... but I wouldn’t mind more than I’m getting.
Should I expect the air to feel COLD coming out of the front vents, like it would in my Crosstrek? It only feels “slightly cool” on my hand even with ideal settings:
I’ve also tried variations on that, like leaving it on Auto but cranking up the fan with the temp on LO, and opening more vents. (I notice that using either Max Cool or Auto will force Eco-cool ON, regardless of drive mode. But I can then toggle it back off. I don’t feel any difference with Eco being on though.)
I’m used to my old Crosstrek where I could make the air blowing on me feel TOO cold and have to back off. My Uncharted never gets very cool even in the above conditions. (It probably would eventually but I tend to drive a half hour or less.) The air on my hand does feel slightly cooled, but my Crosstrek (after a delay) would blow COLD air.
Normal? Thanks in advance!
(I know my Crosstrek had higher vents, and I can’t expect as much air in my face due to the touchscreen. So I’m just judging what I feel when I put my hand right over a vent.)
I never activated the connected services upon purchasing the Uncharted, and immediately used the app to Deactivate Vehicle (due to reports of DCM-related 12V failures at the time, which seem to have been solved by now). Two months later, I was ready to give the connected services a try, but I saw reports, in a thread here from others who have done so, about loud warnings and error messages.
For what it’s worth, activation went smoothly and quickly for me without errors. (It’s only day one but I don’t anticipate any 12V issues.) Here are the steps I did in case they help anyone:
0. Starting state in case it matters: way back at the start, I had added my profile/name to the car and app (the app knew my VIN and trim/color) prior to choosing Deactivate Vehicle. Since then, the car has shown the “no satellite” icon.
1. First I launched the app and accepted the offered services.* (I declined the dealer service data sharing, and said “maybe later” on the AT&T WiFi.) The app implied there might be a delay before service was established.
2. The car was already sitting on the “Get Started” startup screen so I tapped that. The satellite icon came on, and the navigation map appeared.
3. The app still showed “not registered” and something to the effect that no subscription was active. Maybe in time it would have caught up—but I just force-quit the app (iPhone). When I launched it again, everything seemed to work.** I turned the car off and back on, and got no warnings or errors. I was able to use the Remote functions (including from my Apple Watch) and check Status.
I have not downloaded the digital key yet, and don’t expect to use it much, but I will set that up just as a backup key.
I also have not tried putting in a credit card for charging: doing so would seemingly ALSO use that stored payment method for subscription renewals, and I don’t want those to ever auto-renew. I know I won’t keep ALL of them. So I will research more before adding a card. (Can you delete your only card as a last resort? I know some companies won’t do that—you can only change cards.)
* The 12-month trials immediately showed only 10 months remaining, so the Subaru/Toyota timers must begin at purchase, before you even accept the trial. (Not so with the 30 days of WiFi, apparently.)
** The app doesn’t actually work reliably (as I expected from reviews) despite a strong AT&T signal (judging by my AT&T phone). You CAN see the status of the locks and windows (but not lights)***, and you CAN lock or start the car remotely… just not reliably. Maybe 1 in 3 success rate? But “try, try again” and it works. The Status shown was always out of date until multiple refreshes, and locking the doors sometimes just failed silently. But when locking DID work, I got a notification banner, so at least I can tell whether I need to try again.
*** You can turn the headlights (not taillights) ON remotely. You cannot turn them off! Ingenious. But unlocking and relocking the doors seemed to do that, as a workround. My impression is that the car generally turns the headlights off automatically after a time, but would that happen with the app? I can’t say. Status won’t show the state of your lights, and I don’t park in sight of my home. But I have no need to turn the lights on remotely anyway.
Just making sure this is normal for Uncharted, and there isn’t some obscure dealer setting or something at play:
Even with all the windows down, I have to put my head out the window and concentrate to detect the slightest hint of the exterior pedestrian warning sound when I shift into Drive. And once I’m actually moving, even inching along at very slow parking speeds, I can’t hear it at all over the wheel noise. Not does it increase when I move a little faster. (I know at a certain speed it goes away by design.)
Other EVs have a pedestrian sound I can detect from a hundred feet away when it’s quiet out. And in various EV videos, you can often hear a bit of it inside the cabin when driving on low-speed streets.
When I shift into Reverse, the exterior sound gets much louder—audible with the windows closed, easily heard by pedestrians. In Reverse it sounds to me like I’ve come to expect from other EVs. (And I can see that Reverse is more important.)
Are all Uncharteds that quiet when in Drive at low speeds?
(I do like the quiet... but it’s not helping pedestrians much! And they never bring their dog or child in close until they SEE me moving past.)
I wonder if this is direction from Subaru for the benefit of people whose 12V didn’t necessarily ever go dead, but experienced silent wear on the battery’s lifespan? They will test your battery, and replace free if needed. (It didn’t mention WHY a brand new battery might need testing.)
Looks like you can claim it by 11/15. I’ll wait a while and do it. (But I never had connected services on—still don’t until I know how to be sure I get the fix—so I think I’m likely fine.)
I’ve had it about a week (US) and it’s been great. (My dealer never enabled connected services and the satellite icon is crossed out, so hopefully my 12v will be OK despite doing mainly short drives.) Some observations:
Try regen 0 (1 click above the default 1) for really smooth efficient coasting. Feels very different from an ICE car. (The default 1 feels like ICE engine braking.)
Proactive Driving Assist uses regen to slow you for traffic ahead. I like it. It makes regen 0 feel good even for stop-and-go. Just when I reach for the paddles or the brakes, the system is already gently slowing me.
The color cannot be photographed. In shadow, it’s like a metallic rust color. In sunlight, it’s a deep orange. I like it, but photos showing a BRIGHT orange are misleading, and many photos show it too red. I would call it a metallic dark orange.
The comfort-exit feature slides the driver’s seat BACK but not DOWN. I need down! Is that normal? Not a huge deal.
The AC never seems to blow very cold or very strong. Nothing like my Crosstrek would. User error? But it does do the job in the end.
Rolling down the windows from the remote can also crack them—not just put them down fully.
Very quiet ride! And comfortable seats.
The low-speed pedestrian sound going forward is so quiet I can’t hear it with the windows up, and barely with the windows down. It’s louder in reverse. The interior chime for reversing is so quiet I can’t imagine people minding it.
Speed limit alerts work (at least a lot of the time) with the DCM disabled. As soon as the camera sees a speed sign, it shows on the display.
While using the parking camera (forward) turn off the “crossed out A” icon. Now you’ll get the camera any time you’re driving very slowly moving forward OR back. Nice for stopping and parking and tight turns around curbs.
Every setting I care about seems to be remembered between trips. Regen sets back to “1” but that’s probably smart, or some mechanic someday would put my car through a wall from me leaving it on “0."
Regen 3 and 4 feel very strong to me. I haven’t tried them much.
The steering wheel doesn’t even come CLOSE to blocking the display, and the display does not intrude onto the road at ALL. (I am 6 feet and keep the seat high.) Most photos from the interior must be taken lower than I sit: they show sky behind the display.
Wireless CarPlay has been reliable. I keep my phone in my outer pocket, not on the charger.
The secret covered bin where the manual hides is pretty large. The main bin above it is big too. A suitable alternative to a glovebox.
The charging cable JUST fits under the cargo floor even with the floor lowered. And there’s space down there for other emergency supplies too. (Not the adapter box, at least not with the floor lowered.)
I’ve only driven about 70 miles, and have never tried charging it yet. Local mileage seems to be in the 3.5 to 6.5 mi/kWh range.
Rear visibility is poor—not just because the rear window is so small but because it’s so tinted. The GT’s digital mirror solves this well. I can’t focus my eyes that close without looking over my glasses—but I don’t have to. I’ve learned not to bother: a slightly blurry car behind me is still visible. Result: better rear visibility than any car I’ve had.
The tires came from the dealer overinflated by about 8 pounds vs. the door sticker. (The pressure on the display reads about 3 low: it said 43, my own pressure gauge measured 46 in the morning, and the sticker said 38. So I let air out.)
I don’t mind the steering wheel shape. I was aware of it until I got used to it, but it was never a problem.
You get two-tone paint even if you don’t pay for the black roof: things like the glossy front bumper portions, the spoiler, and the mirrors are the blue-flecked metallic black.
Tons of power on Eco. I may never try the other modes.
I looked in the Settings ⚙️ menu on the camera screen itself, as well as in the car’s global Settings and Vehicle menus. Don’t see a way to change it from the default silver. But it would be fun, and appears to be possible?
(I saved this screenshot as a reminder that the feature exists—but too long ago to recall where it’s from 😑 I’ve also seen some Solterra screenshots showing a variety of body colors, both with and without two-tone black top. But this image is an Uncharted: note the very short upper spoilers.)
Or, if you find OUTSIDE PARTIES too disturbing, 60+ other games are also discounted this week. What a community! (And some titles—including mine—will stay on sale for a while after 8/7.)
Trailer (with soundscape, voice acting, and graphics from actual gameplay):
https://youtube.com/watch?v=BIKhbAgsMmI
Playdate Catalog:
I expected I’d have to use the app to disable DCM (for 12V issues) on my new Uncharted, but when I connected the app I get this screen.
(So maybe using the app to disable DCM is only needed if the dealer had already activated connected services before delivery? My dealer does not do that.)
Am I all good? (Not worried about the phone battery—I disabled background updates—just the 12V.)
My understanding is you should use the app to disable DCM (how-to instructions have been posted).
But does that assume you have already used the app to BEGIN using the DCM?
If you just never used the app at all, are you OK with doing nothing? Or do you HAVE to use the app—just once—to protect the 12V?
TIA!
The calculator does nothing but squirt water. (I also turned one of those into a gamepad using parts from an old Atari joystick.) Playdate fits right into my weird packrat collection.
The app description implies that without the app on your phone, the car has no navigation, no emergency assistance, no voice control.
I would have thought the car alone—IF you subscribe to Drive Connect and Safety connect—could do all those.
What is truly lost without the phone app? Just remote start/temperature/battery %/locks/lights? (I wish I could have those—but it’s more important to avoid the reported phone battery drain. And it sounds like you can’t trust the status to be accurate anyway.)
TIA!
Also: if I have the app instealled for occasional use (and for turning off Insurance Connect), can I prevent battery drain on my iPhone by force quitting the app (and turning off Background App Refresh)? Is that enough to prevent wasteful background operation?
We’re hiring a developer to handle Stripe, but I want to know what I’m taking about/what to search the docs for:
My client (I’m their front-end web dev) a makes hand-made custom product, sold online in the US. The front end I made asks a bunch of questions/measurements and calculates the price. But my client then has a phone consultation to finalize each order—and some of those answers usually change. The price ands up a little lower or higher as a result.
Stripe’s docs suggest that “overcapture” of a past payment intent is not the answer: it’s not allowed—not outside of certain industries. (PayPal seems to allow it, but we’re avoiding them for many reasons. We’d prefer Stripe!)
But what about collecting the card info when the online order is placed—stored by Stripe and Stripe alone—but not processing the card at all until later when the final total is known? Is that possible? If so, what’s the terminology? (We know that any issues with the card would be unknown until that time. That’s OK.)
Thanks in advance! Any recommendations on approaching this kind of custom online order are welcome.
Can it be? Single digits? My centuries-spanning horror mystery game is almost 1/3 off for the first time, through 6/21/26. (Also my Playtime weird clocks collection is on sale, for $1.)
Some reviews of OUTSIDE PARTIES:
Engadget review
YourCoolUncleMarissa gameplay video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1MSUtOqBU1Y&t=309s
Destination Playdate gameplay video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hNv0KJnyXNE
PlaydateUnofficial review
https://www.playdateunofficial.com/the-games/outside-parties
And the trailer:
I know you can’t prevent the notification badge appearing. I don’t really mind that, though I get my new game news via Panic’s mailing list and Bluesky. But I DO want a way to clear it once it appears, so that I can notice more important badges like OS updates, and to have a cleaner looking sleep/clock screen.
Trivial N00b Q: What action does clears it? I own one of the first Playdates (in the 600s, well before Catalog!) yet somehow I still have never figured it out. I used to think you had to exit your game in progress and just launch the Catalog app before re-launching your game. Then I thought you had to do that and then hit B in Catalog. Then it seemed like I had to wait for a time before and after pressing B before going back to gaming. Recently I thought maybe I have to navigate within Catalog to New Games. But none of those methods works, at least not reliably.
And yet… sometimes the badge does clear… I just never figured out exactly what I’m doing that makes it happen. What’s the simplest set of steps?
(I know you can disable the cool blinking light in Settings. And I know turning off WiFi stops all notifications, but that’s overkill—I like my connectivity.)
Thanks in advance!
Is there a way to make the SD card seat properly, or do I need a warranty swap from Lilygo?
I press it in, it feels springy and comes back out maybe 1 MM more than normal. Pressing the SD icon in Meshtastic UI says “SD slot empty."
BUT if I forcibly hold the SD in against the spring and press the icon, the SD shows up fine. My maps work (thanks to the post here) and everything! Until I let up pressure with my finger and the card pops back out.
I’ve pressed in quite firmly but don’t want to break anything. Ideas?
TIA!