Currently driving and very happy with 2014 Crosstrek and am considering an Uncharted. I like the cargo space of the Crosstrek and the size of the vehicle inside and out. Have some of moved to the Uncharted from Crosstrek and what are your feelings on that move? TIA
I've been eyeing the Uncharted for a couple of months now and am ready to pull the trigger. But why in the world would I buy when there is a known problem with the battery drain? From what I can find, Subaru is not really addressing the problem either. What am I missing here?
I know this is related to the 12v parasitic discharge but I'm a little confused as to why.
So driver about 150 miles, decided to add 20% to finish to destination at an Ionna charger (very nice by the way). Started the charge, go in the vehicle, turned in on, display asked if I wanted room mode, said yes. I'm about a minute, got a warning that battery was low so I turn off.
Looking at the ancel monitor, it is charging the battery as well as traction battery, ancel says state of charge was around 12.59. what the hell
I do still have the app but have played with the whole 2:55 hour but on charging schedule. Sometime mentioned removing the sensor so it charges higher rate. I'm tempted to get a better battery, AGM, higher amps
12v battery died again also noticed full charge isn’t 300 miles anymore.
On my old Toyota / Subaru, I had two options (lane departure alert and lane keep assist - meaning if I could just get the alert and self correct as I find their lane keep assist too aggressive.
On the Uncharted it appears there is only one option available. Anyone found the option for alert and assist perhaps hidden somewhere?
Just got my Uncharted Sport and took it through the car wash last week. The water jet in the car wash popped open the charging port lid. No bueno. I tried locking the car, but this does not seem to lock the charging port lid. Can’t seem to find anything in the manual about this. Any advice is appreciated. *** I know handwashing is better. But I drive it down the Atlantic coast every day for work and I don’t have time to hand wash it every week. I figured automatic car wash is better than salt corrosion.
Waterloo region, Ontario. Buying new, ~$20k down, financing the rest over 60 months.
Context: We’re keeping our AWD Forester as the bad-weather/road-trip backup, so the EV doesn’t have to be the do-everything vehicle. My wife will be the primary driver. Her requirements are AWD and decent cargo space — not looking for a performance car.
Shortlist after a lot of dealer visits:
• 2027 Subaru Uncharted Sport AWD — 77 kWh, 338 hp, ~438 km
• 2026 Mustang Mach-E Premium Extended Range eAWD — 88 kWh, ~370 hp, 483 km NRCan
The odd part: after the various discounts on each side, the monthly payments land within a few dollars of each other. So this isn’t a price decision anymore — it’s a “which one will we still like in year four” decision.
What I’m hoping to hear:
• Real-world Ontario winter range, not spec sheet numbers
• Anything that annoyed you at 6–12 months that you didn’t notice on the test drive
Open to other suggestions.
Home charging: L2 [planned]. Annual driving: ~15000 km, mostly commuting.
Hi all.
Has anyone looked into winter rims for their uncharted. Based upon what I have dug up it looks like 18” inch Nissan Rouge rims will fit. Basically they have the right offset etc but the centre bore is much bigger than Toyota spec of 60.1. Nissan is 66 but a set of CB reduction rings would fix this problem.
Thoughts?
It looks like I could used aftermarket 18” steelies made for Nissans or any vehicle that has a 66mm
CB.
I'm sure many are aware of the very distracting, and annoying shaky/jittery headlight issue that is common on this model year, and that most dealerships (including mine) have basically told us we're SOL and that Subaru has no fix for this.
I get flashed by high beams constantly because oncoming traffic thinks I'm flashing them, when driving on normal conditions, due to the poorly designed and constantly shaking headlight housing. It is also extremely distracting and annoying for myself and any passengers of mine.
I was instructed to submit an NHTSA complaint, as well as to Subaru of America, to do my part in an effort to get it seen by Subaru if enough people are affected by the issue. Thought I'd remind y'all to do the same if you have the issue, so that maybe we can get a recall and a fix for it.
Happy Friday!
I’ve been using the door lock automations every 3 hours with no issues for the past 3 weeks. Here’s my car sitting unused for 4 days and the 12V is currently at 12.58V.
My threshold to attach a battery maintainer to top off the battery is 12.55V, so I think I have another day or two before it hits that threshold.
Turning off the DCM/deactivating the car from the app is the surest way to stop the parasitic drain, but the door lock automations and charging schedule fixes are good temporary fixes if you want to keep connected services.
Here’s the door lock automation fix…
https://www.reddit.com/r/trailseeker/s/YQb3JlwfKn
Here’s the charging schedule fix…
https://www.reddit.com/r/Toyota_bZ/s/w595XbyYc4
And here’s how to deactivate your car and turn off DCM…
https://www.reddit.com/r/Toyota_bZ/s/o5mLYmHxXD
If you’re interested, I have a H5 AGM battery installed and I have the battery sensor disconnected from my negative terminal. Here’s my post on undercharging of the 12V battery if you want to learn more about it…
If I remote start the car and get in and fully start it, the wireless android auto never connects, the wireless charge pads won't activate, and sometimes the screen will stay black until I power the car off and back on. Sometimes I can't get the phone to show up on the car as connected at all even though my phone says it's connected. Sometimes I have to power cycle the car a couple times before it finally behaves. Here I thought wireless android auto would fix the problems my WRX had wired lol
Parked my car at work this morning and after turning it off I got a “low battery turn power off warning”. I’ve been trying to mitigate the drain by routinely using the app to lock the doors a few hours after parking and the killing the app, but now that I have the warning I’m not sure what my next steps should be?
I don’t really want to end my workday with a dead car but how can I charge the battery back up?
The illuminated cargo sill that I ordered a couple months ago came in, so I got that installed and decided to take apart the exterior liftgate trim and lamp assembly to get a set of TRD stripes tucked neatly in under the adjoining panels. I’m really thinking they should’ve done this from the factory 😉
Have a level 1 charger (Grizzl-e Mini) in my garage, plugged charging port in but car doesn't seem to detect the port. Won't lock in place, won't start.
- Battery is at 79% set to charge to 80
- followed the sequence (turn off car, lock all doors, open charge door, plug in charger)
- no charging schedule
Anything I missed?
Please help 😢
I’ve had it about a week (US) and it’s been great. (My dealer never enabled connected services and the satellite icon is crossed out, so hopefully my 12v will be OK despite doing mainly short drives.) Some observations:
Try regen 0 (1 click above the default 1) for really smooth efficient coasting. Feels very different from an ICE car. (The default 1 feels like ICE engine braking.)
Proactive Driving Assist uses regen to slow you for traffic ahead. I like it. It makes regen 0 feel good even for stop-and-go. Just when I reach for the paddles or the brakes, the system is already gently slowing me.
The color cannot be photographed. In shadow, it’s like a metallic rust color. In sunlight, it’s a deep orange. I like it, but photos showing a BRIGHT orange are misleading, and many photos show it too red. I would call it a metallic dark orange.
The comfort-exit feature slides the driver’s seat BACK but not DOWN. I need down! Is that normal? Not a huge deal.
The AC never seems to blow very cold or very strong. Nothing like my Crosstrek would. User error? But it does do the job in the end.
Rolling down the windows from the remote can also crack them—not just put them down fully.
Very quiet ride! And comfortable seats.
The low-speed pedestrian sound going forward is so quiet I can’t hear it with the windows up, and barely with the windows down. It’s louder in reverse. The interior chime for reversing is so quiet I can’t imagine people minding it.
Speed limit alerts work (at least a lot of the time) with the DCM disabled. As soon as the camera sees a speed sign, it shows on the display.
While using the parking camera (forward) turn off the “crossed out A” icon. Now you’ll get the camera any time you’re driving very slowly moving forward OR back. Nice for stopping and parking and tight turns around curbs.
Every setting I care about seems to be remembered between trips. Regen sets back to “1” but that’s probably smart, or some mechanic someday would put my car through a wall from me leaving it on “0."
Regen 3 and 4 feel very strong to me. I haven’t tried them much.
The steering wheel doesn’t even come CLOSE to blocking the display, and the display does not intrude onto the road at ALL. (I am 6 feet and keep the seat high.) Most photos from the interior must be taken lower than I sit: they show sky behind the display.
Wireless CarPlay has been reliable. I keep my phone in my outer pocket, not on the charger.
The secret covered bin where the manual hides is pretty large. The main bin above it is big too. A suitable alternative to a glovebox.
The charging cable JUST fits under the cargo floor even with the floor lowered. And there’s space down there for other emergency supplies too. (Not the adapter box, at least not with the floor lowered.)
I’ve only driven about 70 miles, and have never tried charging it yet. Local mileage seems to be in the 3.5 to 6.5 mi/kWh range.
Rear visibility is poor—not just because the rear window is so small but because it’s so tinted. The GT’s digital mirror solves this well. I can’t focus my eyes that close without looking over my glasses—but I don’t have to. I’ve learned not to bother: a slightly blurry car behind me is still visible. Result: better rear visibility than any car I’ve had.
The tires came from the dealer overinflated by about 8 pounds vs. the door sticker. (The pressure on the display reads about 3 low: it said 43, my own pressure gauge measured 46 in the morning, and the sticker said 38. So I let air out.)
I don’t mind the steering wheel shape. I was aware of it until I got used to it, but it was never a problem.
You get two-tone paint even if you don’t pay for the black roof: things like the glossy front bumper portions, the spoiler, and the mirrors are the blue-flecked metallic black.
Tons of power on Eco. I may never try the other modes.
