Bought some “bolt in” bag cups for my first gen s10 blazer, for any of you bagged owners out there;
Do I need to cut these spring fingers away or did I get some cheap shitty cups? The hole on top of the upper control arm mount seems to be a bit out of line with the threaded post nut location. Did you have to elongate that hole a little bit? Cutting the fingers a bad idea?
Cups were ordered from AVS.
Refinishing my 89 s10; cleaning up the frame on the front end; would grinding these factory seams down a bit with a die grinder to smooth them out be a big no in terms of compromising strength? Should I back them up with some fresh weld first and try to straighten that seam up? Any advice appreciated.
Bagging my 89 s10 blazer, first time bagging anything, these were my selections; did I misstep anywhere? Anything I should cancel and rethink?
Viair 444c dual compressors
Slam specialties SV-8C & MC.2
Slam specialties SS-6 bags
A 4 port 5 gallon aluminum tank
Also got an AVS dual compressor wiring kit and water trap. Ordered everything from Illusive.
Bagging my 89 s10 blazer, first time bagging anything, these were my selections; did I misstep anywhere? Anything I should cancel and rethink?
Viair 444c dual compressors
Slam specialties SV-8C & MC.2
Slam specialties SS-6 bags
A 4 port 5 gallon aluminum tank
Also got an AVS dual compressor wiring kit and water trap. Ordered everything from Illusive.
Tearing down my 1989 s10 blazer 350 swap, preparing to start clearing the firewall to bag it and shave the bay.
Had this truck for years, had the upper A arms replaced quite a while ago, noticed these massive shim packs on the bolts; was this just to adjust alignment or something else nefarious? Something I should be concerned about?
Hey all, completely new to any sort of fabrication really, just stumbling my way along. I’m working on my 89 s10 blazer, looking to start shaving the engine bay and cleaning things up.
I want to create a flat inner fender panel with tubs for future big wheeled plans; here was my initial thought on how to do that.
Cut along red line, leave a 3/4ish lip all the way around the edge of the existing inner fender structure. Place a flat sheet with whatever decorative bead rolling/visual elements, weld to lip. Where the wheel well turns to exit, it has a relatively perpendicular lip with an uninterrupted arc all the way around, create a filler piece to meet the now completely flat inner fender piece, cut at green line and butt weld to existing perpendicular lip.
Is that a horrible idea? What are some things I’m not thinking about with this plan?