r/fabrication

👎🏻 or 👍🏼 or 🤌🏻 lol

**** everyone- the stairs are not done lol. Railing and balusters will finish it off once treads are all set and drilled . The landing is floating, secured by the two side walls. The back of top landing will also get a handrail. It’s floating because we wanted outside to not have windows broken up. The middle windows is set to view outside at perfect height when on landing. Hope this all helps lol

I am by no means a fabricator.

This is a brace I have seen before but am unable to purchase. So now I have put a couple together myself and am reasonably pleased with the results.

This brace will be anchored to concrete on one end, and easily fits into the latching system for my forms on the other. Rotating the brace shrinks or expands it with high torque helping with perfect setting of formwork before and after pour

I’m looking for some input on the best approach to modify an existing stainless steel staircase in my apartment. We are currently doing a major renovation to combine adjacent units, so the space is already set up for heavy, messy work—dust and noise aren't a concern right now. However, the staircase cannot be dismantled; all work needs to be done in place.

Currently, the stairs and upper landing have a stainless steel wire mesh infill that is held by welded tabs. I want to remove the netting and replace it with a 10-cable horizontal system.

A previous contractor actually scoped this out before COVID, but he retired shortly after, so the job never got done. His proposal was to keep the existing welded tabs, use an adapter on them, and attach the horizontal cables directly to those same tabs.

My main questions for the group:

1. Hardware: What kind of adapters or hardware would work best to transition from the existing welded tabs to a clean, tensioned horizontal cable setup?
2. Intermediate Posts: The retired contractor assumed we would need to drill clearance holes in the intermediate posts for the cables to pass through. I'm open to that, but are there other, potentially cleaner ways to handle the cable routing on those middle posts?
3. In-place execution: Since this all has to be fabricated and tensioned in place, are there any specific tools, techniques, or pitfalls to watch out for?

I’ve attached photos of the current full staircase, close-ups of the existing tabs/hardware, and the generic proposal/design plan from the retired contractor for reference.

Thanks in advance for any ideas!

I also don't want to pay a machine shop to do a one-off custom part like this. It doesn't have to be perfect it's just for a side project.

I need to extend this shaft in order to offset the engine sprocket. I know you can also just offset the entire motor itself but without going into the details for my particular build that's not a good idea.

so i’ve received an enquiry from a client about this 3d sorta curved edge villa nameplate
and i’m not sure how to get these curved edges right
from wht i could think.. Laser cutting a 6mm Ss304 sheet and then grinding the edges to match how it looks and then finally plating it is all i could think of.

ps- i need it to be as cost efficient as possible

Всем привет! Сделал MetalCalc — бесплатное приложение-помощник для сварщиков и тех, кто работает с металлом.

Можно быстро посчитать вес и стоимость металла, раскрой, расход сварочных материалов, площадь покраски, углы и раскосы фермы, лестницу, козырёк, разметку профтрубы и другое. Есть подбор сварочных материалов по марке стали.

Приложение только вышло в Google Play, поэтому буду благодарен, если попробуете его в реальной работе. Особенно интересно, где неудобно, что работает не так и каких инструментов не хватает. Буду постепенно добавлять функции по вашим предложениям.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.andre.metalcalc

I’ve got this screen thing and I have been trying to get an enclosure made for it and am losing my mind on how it proceed. I attached some photos to show that I have used aluminum angles as the profile for the screen (I haven’t put the angle on the top and bottom but will do that soon) and have an aluminum flat working as the backbone going down the middle.

Now what I am stuck on is figuring out how to make an enclosure for the back so that it doesn’t get damaged by the elements. I would need a one inch deep enclosure as I will have to have some space for the power supply for this thing and it’s roughly an inch tall. I would prefer to stay away from aluminum as it’s expensive af and also is hard to weld with the small stick welder I have.

I thought about using plastic sheets I saw at Menards to build the enclosure, if I were to do that, I thought about cutting some thin strips of the sheet, stacking them on top of each other to achieve the one inch depth for the enclosure profile and then putting a plastic sheet to cover the full back area. I was planning on fastening this to the aluminum profile using some sort of adhesive but I figured I don’t know of an adhesive that will bond plastic and aluminum well, you guys would probably know more about that.

Any and all help appreciated. Thank you.

Edit : Would prefer for the solution to be something that can be achieved under $100, if it’s not, I’d still love to hear what you guys recommend.

I had made this rear diffuser for my car but I’m stuck between what materials to use or even what way to go fabricating it if you guys have any ideas or have made something like this I would love to hear how you did it!

I am extending this turnbuckle with an aluminum pipe (or tube) and having the pipe telescopic as well with another pipe within it

I'll cut the turnbuckle at the line and hopefully I can secure it strong enough that I can torque as much as id like.

I could weld a plate so they can be bolted together but I'm hoping for ideas. Maybe the steel arms can be forced into the aluminum with some creative drilling and vice pressure to lock them together.

I want to build a very unique chess set and I don’t know where to start. Hoping someone can point in the right direction.