I was partial to naming her ‘Jowelene’ but my son vetoed it with ‘Flapcheeks’.
The next one I’m thinking will be conjoined twins.
Mind you we’ve yet to receive an ultimate Kharis OR ultimate Kwazimodo, but even if we had by now, I’d still find this absurd enough to gripe- but withholding major UM characters while they do this is just insult to injury. I’m sorry, but… WHY WOULD JACK GRIFFIN BE WEARING THE KEMP HOUSE GETUP WHILE INVISIBLE?!?! the whole fucking point is that his organic makeup is invisible, and he specifically dons clothing to attain a recognizable, ie, VISIBLE form!!!!! The ONLY way to make this figure make sense is to have Claude Raines in his insanity-inducing invisibirthday suit & make him hang translucent dong. I’m not saying that’s what I want, but we didn’t ask for this. What I want is ultimate Kharis & Kwazimodo.
Is the sidewall of a short 20’ box really rigidenough to support the same as the corner framing/castings? Furthermore, with 99% of the upper sidewall removed, how does the top box not risk buckling & high deflection? This modular hotel was built by a rather well known architect firm in Prague and can’t imagine they’d forgo due diligence with engineering, but it seems, at least to the naked eye, to be lacking in proper bracing?
I welded the shelving mostly from stainless & dropped the center to specifically fit the death slice. The imperial banners behind the Death Star are mounted off a piece of steel flatbar screwed into studs with lightweight bungee cording lightly pre-tensioned to several load points in case of earthquake/my kid playing too rough in the next room behind wall. The zinc panel I cut to look like Death Star interior walls, lined with LED tape & dropped in a plexiglass slab to illuminate desk below through the holes as well as the build from below.
Jango’s Slave I wall mount is stainless & mild steel, boba’s emblem mount is pinewood, steel & copper. To top it all off, I made the Mustafar lamp & added green led’s to DS laser which are both spliced to main center lighting. Planning to add dim yellow lights behind both slave I’s & blue behind star destroyer.
Oh and the shelving weight is offset by stainless cables going into ceiling rafters.
Need to rebuild the base & steps to be wider for the film-accurate x3 rows of x7 501’s & rebuild the statues proper.
Paper mache; used my own hair for eyebrows & nose wart.
If anybody has had experience cross-stacking a 40’ at the ends like this, would you mind if I picked your brain? Trying to gauge roughly what beam size I’d need to run in between for clearspan.
Head is paper mache & random junk I had laying about, brain in jar is, well… brain & jar. Making another set of “abnormal brain/dysfunctio cerebri “ labels for the jar like the brain I keep in my office amongst my universal monsters stuff. Jar will be filled with dyed fluid & equipped with LED airstone that bubbles activated by knife switch.
My new fabrication shop I’m building is a late medieval gothic castle designed as a heavy Mary Shelley nod along the ‘creationist’ theme. In the main man door entryway I’m suspending this ‘creature’ head I just made out of paper mache next to the brain on a shelf which I’m intending to fill with lightly yellow dyed water (and a dash of hydrogen peroxide to prevent nastiness) as well as an LED fish tank air stone activated by a low voltage in line knife switch I made. However, the brain being mostly stuffing in a rubber shell, I’m planning to shove in a small steel ballast through the pinhole at the bottom, before sealing with marine epoxy. However, I’m wondering if there’s something I should use other than the clear epoxy for coating it to prevent discoloration/water intrusion? It will be submerged 24/7-365 and disturbed by the bubbles only occasionally. Thanks in advance.
I’m Dad (31m) to a brilliant and super outgoing little guy who recently graduated kindergarten. I myself am no social butterfly and am easily drained around others, particularly with crowds or perceived forced social interactions. Being conscious of this, the last half of the school year or so I had to really push myself outside of my comfort zone and try to engage with other parents of classmates he quickly became close with in attempts to set up play dates, etc. I recall being so close with my neighbor’s kids at that age & my mom’s friends kids that I never went I day most of the time without regular close bonding with other kids, and I want to be able to give that to him but sometimes it’s just odd that I’m making all the effort but it doesn’t work out, then I leave the ball in their court and it’s just radio silence. I know what you may be thinking, and no, it’s not him- even one of the parents I’d hoped to set up summer play dates with told me the first time we met ‘how much her girls love (my kid) and he’s so sweet’, his teacher in meetings can’t praise him enough to me about how kind he is, and the single time I’ve been able to pin other parents down to get our boys together they obviously had so much fun together. We even made tentative plans for the next weekend before the day of they said they had plans. My partner has assured me it’s not anything I’m doing; I fully supress all urges to talk about vintage horror films, morbid history, or even about how our tax dollars are being used to put kids in concentration camps on Us soil and we’re witnessing the greatest grift in human history. I save it all for polite, gross small talk. Don’t get me wrong, I don’t wanna fucking talk to them either, I get it. But now halfway through the summer with no calls back, I’m stuck at home with a dislocated knee, watching my kid play outside on our 7 acres of woodlands with kid pool & full size swings wishing he just had someone to share it with. Are play dates just like, not a thing any more?
Dislocated my knee pretty badly and going to be down for a while. Figured it’s a good as time as I’ll ever have to tackle this, and since I’m doing the PAB order for GalacticPlastic’s destroyer expansion I might as well choose now and try to avoid service fees. I’m leaning towards the pixeldan version pending cost because it seems (without actual side by side comparison) a bit more substantial than Baufman’s more compact but still perfect design. Though, I appreciate Baufman’s cockpit approach quite a bit, and the sturdiness I’ve heard mentioned is a plus as it will be suspended from the ceiling studs by the technic framing. Feedback from anyone who’s done either is appreciated!
EDIT: Also open to Jurgen’s design (or other competitive contenders I’m unaware of) but have cheap access to the base set the former 2 utilize most of.
I remember paper instructions being advertised to me once; I’m still sitting on my thieves of tortuga from last year & now fortuna but working with a screen is just a grueling process for me that sucks all joy out of the build. TIA
Told him to go grab a good sized, green ivy leaf from a vine outside. Even after 30 recent talks about identifying & not touching noxious plants, he still managed to choose a nettle instead but somehow plucked it & delivered to me unscathed.
You guys have been super helpful in getting power run to my new shop so let me start by saying thank you before I shamelessly beg for more free knowledge…
I know that there’s no NEC mandates for specific distances of exposed EMT from the ground on interior walls, but in consideration of long-term placement without having to re-route at any point soon, and since I tend to maximize use of walls in my workspace, I’m wondering if there’s a reason other than keeping the primary raceway out of the way that you’ll sometimes see them shoot off from the main run of the branch circuit (see 2nd picture) as opposed to just being run in-line (1st photo).
Obviously the usage of all the extra conduit bodies is a cost factor that adds up quickly, but if i’m planning to place most outlets closer to midway up the wall (at least waist height) or in certain spots for dedicated stationary equipment anyways, it seems like running all my branches primarily in-line & independently is a little more practical, but I don’t want to assume there any other factors I’m unaware of that need consideration?
It’s shocking how bad it is the last month or two since updated. I use markup every day for work & even moreso since I cancelled my adobe subscription. Markup has always been crappy but wow, at least when it used to crash and delete tons of work it just did it on its own- now it’ll let you keep going for god knows how long until you save & then just says “cannot save” and undoes everything. Additionally, when adding text it seems like a little over half the time it doesn’t save it where it was located, but rather almost always displays it in the saved image as down a line or two from where it was set. So now I have to eyeball and reset text to be a few lines above where I want it so it’ll adjust properly and save in the right place. Am I the only one oh one experiencing these issues?? Furthermore, why does everything now including screenshots take an extra 2 buttons to save as opposed to just going to photos like it did before?
Finally had a sec to splice together the wiring harness for these but still gotta clean up/hide wires. Shelf is 1/2” plexiglass wet sanded to a “frosted” finish then I plasma cut the sheet zinc panel underneath for the Death Star interior wall pattern. Wall mounts are mostly just steel with some stained yellow plywood & copper in boba’s slave I… I mean, starship. Vader’s Bacta tank is a work in progress, still need to find 1 more hose and do a base. May make a little dedicated themed corner shelf just for that stuff. Idk, roast my shit.
About ready to hook up the 200a panel in my new shop to the main through a 200 enclosed disconnect box right next to this one. In the consideration of insurance & mfg-warranty compliance, what’s the most “correct” way to tap in a new set of 4/0 hot lines here? I was planning to just replace these lugs with some aluminum 4/0 stacked lugs but it appears that won’t work with the left one being at that weird 90 degree termination & I’m hoping to avoid spending $80 a pop on the two 4/0-4/0 IPC’s required for splicing if possible. Split bolts & parallel clamps seems sketchy to do here without risk of shorting & I don’t think I can fit Polaris taps with the necessary bends required. I know Schneider makes a million accessories and specialized lugs for square d panels but they don’t do a very good job at making it clear which ones will work for any super specific application. Any help appreciated, thanks in advance!
Around 2 years back someone posted, this absolutely genius yet simple, 100% mechanical, (i think it appeared to be float & lever operated?)fuel gauge mechanism he’d made for his peanut tank. I’m pretty sure it was in one of the larger Facebook build groups. Believing I’d saved a photo, I later found I had not, and when I went to go find the post again a week or two later I could not for the life of me find it and I’ve been trying to track down inspiration photos of either that one, or similar ever since. But alas, the internet is an ouroboros of self-consuming trash these days and any search yields nothing but a million photos of the same old generic fuel sight & bung kits. I’d love to see anything ya’ll know of or have made yourselves along a similar line, as the petcock in the tank I’m using is at such an angle where the level for reserve isn’t really going to be effective. Thanks in advance!
Asking for a friend. If a new, say, $2.50 dollar bill were to be proposed & planned for minting, but a significant population was disgusted by this frivolous focus on half-dollar amounts, among a million other economic & governmental atrocities, is there any way these individuals, if organized & acting in tandem, could effectively “remove” it from circulation, even if just for a few years, upon obtaining it, in a way that is lawful & doesn’t risk major losses of either the full dollar value of said tender or major devaluation from simply ‘sitting’ on the physical tender against a backdrop of exponential inflation?
Hi, all. First post of many, I’m sure- the last year or so aI’ve been building my new fabrication shop and finally have gotten past the foundation pour & gotten in most of the lower vertical steel framing so it’s finally taking shape. To get to the point before boring you- while all 100% functional workspace on the inside, it’s a full-on gothic revival style castle from the exterior, featuring Neuchwanstein-inspired forced-perspective elements, at least x2 modest towers, and wrought iron grotesques/gargoyles for both ornamental & practical purposes. One striking modern deviation, however, is that it is almost entirely steel. While I am a decent drawer for purposes of conceptual design, showing that something is obviously lightly rusted, 1/4” thick mild plate steel is a bit harder by hand. I was wondering if anybody knew of any contemporary/modern structures that take a somewhat deconstructivist approach to utilizing steel & other typical modern brutalist materials in a way that pays homage or draws heavily on gothic revivalist forms & shapes? The closest thing I can find is the steel cathedral in Spain but I’m hoping to find more recent examples that are less shy about hiding that it’s not stone and really lean into the juxtaposition. It’s kind of one of those things where I can see it clear as day mentally but can’t easily show how it will translate (and I refuse to us AI). Thanks in advance!