Seems like my cluster decided to shit the bed today.
Is this worth attempting to repair with a new eeprom? Or is this potentially ribbon related? Maybe better to get one from the junkyard and virginize it so the vin matches?
Not exactly fishing related - but I’m launching the boat at Wilson Point Park this afternoon to fish near hart miller island. Last time I was there, I was a bit confused by the speed limit. I saw many 6 knot buoys, but rarely anybody doing 6knots….some people were even tubing near the ramp.
Is this whole area 6 knots until you get closer to the mouth of the bay, or is it just 6 knots near the smaller side shoot creeks?
I have a 2001 Hydrasports 170 Seahorse center console that I am listing for sale. A buyer came out and was a bit concerned that he could stick a screwdriver on in this area. I assume this is just foam and no cause for concern, any thoughts?
Hey guys, I bought a center console about 18 months ago. The boat had just been bottom painted and the previous owner had kept it in the water for his 10+ years of ownership. As a result, he used an ablative paint. (Interlux Aqua One Ablative. YBE179)
I keep the boat on a lift, and only put the boat in the water when I am actively using it, then it goes back on the lift. As a result, I think ablative paint is not my best choice.
The paint is also starting to peel/chip away. What is my best option here? Sand it down well and cover it with a hard bottom paint, or stick with ablative? I’m reading about some issues going from ablative to hard, unless I fully sand all the way down to the gel coat? Any experiences switching?
I have a few rods that I need to repair the tips on. Two rods are 50-80lb stand up rods that I fish 80 lb braid & mono on, but I also need to fix the tip on a light spinning reel with 15 lb test mono and another medium spinning reel with 30 lb braid.
I have found that Fuji tips seem to be good quality tips, but I see no specification on the tips other than size. Is it safe to assume if the tip fits, the tip will suffice for the rod/line?
Hey all,
Getting ready to do my first 100 hour service on a new to me 2001 Aquasport 205 Osprey.
The boat has a 2020 Yamaha 200hp with 300 hours.
I’m currently buying parts to do a full service (oils, water pump, plugs, thermostat, fuel filter… etc)
I went to grab the part # off of my fuel water separator and it is a Sierra 18-7845.
I am planning on upgrading to a Sierra 18-7945 which is a 10 micron filter versus the current 21 micron filter as it seems that’s what Yamaha recommends.
My question is - is it worth upgrading to a Sierra or Racor filter that has a peak window and/or drain so that I can see and check/empty any water that may accumulate?
Are there any options that screw on to the existing head, or will I need to change the whole head and fuel water separator?
Toying around with the idea of listing my 2001 330CI with 42k miles if the price is right.
Hate to see it go, but really need something more practical that has more space.
I’m in the DMV (east coast) area. What’s a fair listing price?
I bought the car from the original owner 2 years ago with 33k. Since then I’ve done:
Upper & lower Intake Boots
Suction Jet Pump
Misc vacuum lines
Spark Plugs
1x coil (Cylinder 3)
Expansion tank, Fluid Level Sensor, Transmission thermostat
German Auto Solutions Radiator Cap & Disa Valve Rebuild
Belts & Pulleys
Air filter, cabin air filter, fuel filter, full synthetic oil change every 5k
EONON CarPlay headunit (still have original BMW radio)
Car runs and drives well.
Also have:
Full car cover
Backup sensor
PA Soft Diagnostic Reader
Car needs nothing but could benefit from a speaker refresh.
Also could use engine/trans mounts in the future due to a slight vibration at idle in drive. It’s not bad at all, but more so annoying to me.
Have all receipts. All parts bought from FCPEuro/Binmerworld.