Girlfriend and I had a thought while driving today and seeing a jeep with the typical ducks in a row on the dash. Maybe, for 1st gen only (2-4 not allowed), we should do dinosaurs?
Edit: Thanks for the replies. I would not do it either! Just thought it funny, old trucks and all.
Nice folks that you are, only 1 down vote so far.
Just in case anyone may be interested
I was about to do the tack weld thing to tighten up my steering (2003 TRD OR, 3.4, Tilt Wheel). Not really liking the idea of possibly defeating the collapsible column, I looked one more time for the part and found it new, direct from Toyota for $235 shipped. Ordering through a local dealer website gets you a bit more off the price. Pretty sure you need to order soon for this price.
Don't know about you, but I feel a little safer using a new part, even though it may start failing in 50K-100K.
Subtotal$370.08
Shipping$28.92
Tax$12.24
Nationwide Free Shipping-$28.92
JULYNATLPROMO26-$55.62
Dealer Savings-$91.97
Total$234.73
EDIT: Dealer parts person gave me the wrong part number. Above price is for non-tilt steering.
autoparts.toyota.com says that both tilt and non-tilt shafts are "Exact Fit for your 2003 TACOMA" when I searched by VIN
Wondering if there are any tech people who can help me. I have a Haier QPHR50LZW1 dehumidifier and the pump is not working. It starts up and appears to work fine with the tank, but as soon as I switch to pump it displays P1 and goes quiet. Turn the pump off again and it starts working.
I have not opened it up yet. Looking for any tips to what I should be looking for. I am guessing it is not the float valve, since it works with the tank. Worked when I fired it up this summer, about 2 weeks ago. Went to check on it, clean the filter, etc. and found it not working and displaying P1. The tank was empty.
I will be opening it up after posting this. I know electrical (was an electrician) electronics (been making complicated electronics as a hobby for 50+ years) and am fair with mechanical stuff. Repaired many appliances before, just looking for some advice.
So I have never touched this kind of capacitor until today. I obtained some 0.47F, 5.5 volt capacitors. They do not act as I expected. Please let me know if my observations are normal, or if I obtained bad caps.
I expected the 0.47F caps to charge to 60% of my 5V supply, through a 50 ohm resistor, in about 20 seconds. They only took 9.5 seconds. Good or bad?
I then charged the caps directly on my power supply, limited at 100mA, to 5.0 volts. I left them on the power supply about 60 seconds, the supply was not showing current to the cap (though it does not read properly under 15mA). When I disconnected the power supply, it only took 35 seconds to discharge to 4.5 volts with only the 20K voltmeter attached, 60 seconds and it was at 4.4 volts. This seems rather leaky to me. Is this normal?
Then decided to charge and just short the capacitor directly across the terminals. There was no spark at all, nothing I could see in a normally lit room, or hear. Short the cap for 15 seconds and remove short, still see 3.5 volts on the cap. This seems to me as a rather high internal resistance. Is this normal or not?
I am looking for ideas to make/buy a very small hand wash station to keep in my truck/car. 1 gallon maximum, low cost. Anybody have ideas?
Have a 2003 Tacoma TRD Off Road, 220K miles. Recently had springs and some other suspension parts replaced (started with a broken rear leaf). Still has original shocks. So my question is will replacing the shocks help with the sway/roll feel I get at high speed when hitting rough pavement or bumps? That feel is the same as it was before the new springs.
If yes, suggestion for shocks that are not high cost? Mostly highway driven but 2-3 trips per year that include plenty of 4x4 driving in Utah desert and sometimes mountains.
I have owned this Radiacode 103 for a few years. After a walk about a month ago I noticed something loose inside the case. Did a dumb thing and shook it, screen went blank. I opened the case (first time ever) and found a loose shield, removed shield and turned Radiacode back on. It appears to be working (still has bluetooth disconnect issue). I was traveling so I made no attempt to repair.
I assume the shield is important since it was included in the design. I went to reattach, but it appears to not be as I thought.
Should I reattach the shield? I have been soldering hobby work for 60 years and own a decent soldering iron.
I can not access one of the tabs from the back for soldering, there is a shield on back covering that area. It looks like there is white plastic directly behind covered hole where tab would fit. I see no sign of solder on those two holes.
Exactly how should the shield be soldered? Around the perimeter?
