u/Ok-Connection9636

I posted an offer online for around a grand and walked out with 850bucks. I am more than satisfied with how it went, especially after posting it on what's basically french lowballer central lol. I honestly would've sold it for as low as 500bucks if it wasn't getting offers. We're nearing the end of leisure Scooting season, and nobody knows that dodgy little OEM here so I thought it would be way harder

I finished putting it together yesterday and tested it out for a few miles, opened it back up to check the electronics, before cleaning it, charging it and riding it one last time to where I handed it to its new owner. Nice guy btw, hope he's gonna be happy with it.

Despite having my personal scooter, I've been riding these guys to places where I'd have to stay for over half an hour with no secure locking spots. That picture is in front of a movie theatre for instance.

I can swear doing 20kph on those rentals feel like doing 50 on my hyperscoot.

After a month of downtime, I am relieved to see it show signs of life again. I still got quite a lot of work with all of the wiring and tightening but I feel like it's over already.

This is a test run of the rear motor, the rattling and rubbing noise coming from the brake caliper I haven't screwed yet.

I'm part of a french Facebook group chat dedicated to Angwatt electric scooters.That's how, prior to actually buying my F1 max, I was already informed of the factory tweak on the frame, making it impossible to fit hydraulic shocks to the thing. That gave me the time to actually buy what I thought I needed for the mod, including this offset block used to get the clearance necessary to fit the shock.

It wasn't all that simple unfortunately. In fact, the offset block was designed for a thinner shock absorber eye so I had to file it in order to widen the space in its slot and fit the wider hydraulic shock eye.

That fitment solution has been engineered by me with the help of you guys on this sub and doesn't exist in any manual/tutorial, so I rushed to share the discovery.

After 3 weeks of dispute, Amakou finally accepted to send me replacement motors for my 72v x14 that suffered melty wires back in August. Just gotta assemble em to the rims and install that to my frame, hoping they're the only stuff that broke.

Having bought my current hyperscoot, the Angwatt F1 Max, in the meantime, I plan on selling the X14 as soon as it's back up and running.

I still dunno how much I can get from it yet, as there's no speed limiter on the stock controllers I plan to put back in it and it's an important feature in my EU dictatorship. I'm listing it at 1grand since a new on is over 2grand on their website.

I got an Error code and an incorrect voltage reading on my original Angwatt F1 Max display, along with failure to effectively activate dual motor mode despite it being displayed as activated. Yes, my display is fucced and Angwatt will send me a replacement under warranty.

While waiting for the genuine replacement I decided to try out the Toursor Display I had lying around, and it turned out to be working just fine so far, restoring most of my functions and readings. I already knew both the Toursor x7b/Amakou ST500 controllers and the Angwatt F1Max's are similar, coming from the same supplier, but I didn't know until today that they shared the exact same controllers signals.

That brings me to consider a a set of controllers sold by Toursor with 70A output each, instead of 60A for my stock ones. That would be nice to have 12kw instead of 10 adding the more powerful controllers along with the custom, higher discharge and storage capacity Amorge battery.

You might already know my first attempt at swapping controllers ended up with a dual motor phase meltdown, but I think I learned the lesson from my previous misadventures and I now have enough knowledge to get a reliable and more powerful build. The stock motors from my Angwatt have thicker gauge phase wires than on the Toursor so they do run much cooler, but I think I'll either modify the motors with thicker gauge phase wires to have actual current headroom. Feel free to give me any advice you think will be valuable for this.

The only reason why I won't keep the arguably better display from Toursor is the lack of a speed limiting function that is crucial in EU dictatorships to not have my stuff impounded. Ima have to lay low and avoid main arteries in my city to reduce my chances of getting pulled over. They've been cracking down on scooters all over France lately.

I opened it up to take proper measurements of the battery compartment. The Stock battery is a pretty mid 31Ah pack made out of entry level 18650 FEB cells. Discharge is 93A continuous and 156A Peak. The controllers can only output their max power for a very short period of time at the cost of some horrible voltage sag and heat.

The Amorge battery I want will have at least 130A Continuous and 280A Peak discharge. Meaning that with my stock controller's max output of 120A, the battery will be barely solicited and will barely heat up. Bigger capacity is obviously also going to massively improve range.

I knew all about the pretty trash stock battery in the F1 max before buying it. I acquired this picture of the battery taken apart from a friend who did it prior to me pulling the trigger on my unit. The right mindset with these Chinese scooters is to remember that such specs for such prices can only be achieved at the cost of some compromises. One should only buy these if they're ready to make susbstential mods and upgrades in medium to long term. I immediately changed the shock ansorbers for hydraulic ones and I'll get the battery upgrade in the coming months.

I also took that opportunity to improve water resistance with a layer of Silicone under the plate. A content creator I know regult pressure washes his unit after sealing it shut so mine should handle the couple miles I'll need to do from my campus straight to my home under fall's rainstorms.

I cut access holes for the screws so I don't have to unstick the mat to remove it. I wanted to put these "JDM" decorative washers to kinda hide the gnarly looking holes I made in the mat but the screws are too short for that in addition to the extra layer of silicone. I'll be back tomorrow with longer screws and probably a skateboard grip tape to replace the original mat entirely.

After asking for advice about the weak 1800lbs spring on my KKE Hydraulic shocks, some of you told me it is possible to swap out the springs instead of the entire assembly.

I expect the new springs to be slightly shorter than the original ones but I see this spring already being used to customise KKE shocks to 2000lbs.

There's enough preload thread left to properly adjust it so I think it'll be a good fit.

The weak stock suspensions are just as trash as I remember from my former T1 max with a similar coil. They're bouncy asf making the scooter unstable ride quality is non existent, and I can't even change rigidity due to the ridiculous lack of a preload crown.

So I'm refraining from even trying sport mode before getting a hold of my extended rear suspension mount. It's the only thing that stops me from installing the hydraulic shocks that are currently sitting on my desk. Without it, the bigger coil can't fit, it hits the chassis before aligning with the swing arm's bolt eye.

Can't wait to properly try my machine with proper shocks.

New laptop. hope it's good.

I'm getting my new scooter, a 72v Angwatt F1 Max next week and I already know I wanna change these puny 140mm brake rotors.

Brakes are some of the main savings they do to make something that powerful for that price, and It really could've been entirely fine if it was any straightforward to upgrade for bigger rotors. You guessed it, it's fucking not 😂. They squeezed the wheels into these swing arms, so these brakes are in the very recess of the motors. If I wanna get bigger rotors or even a different caliper the rims are gonna be in the way, making it necessary to mod the frame it self widening that space between swing arms.

I already concepts of an idea of what I need to do. Both pairs of swing arms are held to the chassis with m12 bolts. Each arm separated from the chassis by spacers that actually create the stock spacing between the swing arms.

The plan would be to replace these bolts and spacers with wider ones, adding around 15-20mm to each side. After doing that, i'll add spacers separating the rotors from the wheels, allowing me to move the calipers up to accommodate 180mm discs.

My main fear would be the structural integrity of the result. Would a 4cm wider bolt resist my weight ? what materials would you recommend for the bolt? I know of the F1 Max's ancestor, the Laotie ES40 Pro (Angwatt is the new name of Laotie btw) that had 160mm brakes and caliper placed on the side and NOT INside the motors, as God intended. Thought, I don't know how they pulled that off. I don't have a clear enough view of the swing arms to determine wether they had longer bolts.

So I would like to have your thought and advice on my little project. what adapters to get to raise the calipers, what materials to get for the new fasteners, anything you feel like I need to know will be helpful.

looking forward to reading you guys. cheers.

So I'm scooterless for some time and it sucks to do my daily errands. That's what brought me to rediscover my actual first e scooter. the segway commercial kick scooter offered by DOTT in my city. My story with rentals is that I used em on every single occasion for the past 2 years. Their convenience is what made me to buy my very first personal one 6 months ago after moving to a city that didn't have rental options.

Now I'm back to lyon and my next scooter is gonna take a couple weeks so I'm back to using em for short trips in my area. DOTT actually upgraded their fleet in my city with the latest segway commercial scooters.

They're tiny though. I think even more than the previous gen which is a pain in the arse for a big and tall guy like me. They're very awkward to ride and I feel like people try not to laugh when they see my fatass on these small things lol. That self consciousness also prevents me from going to the campus on em like I used to. These business school students are TOXIC and will kill me for looking so silly.

It fills like 10% of the space in my small student accommodation. I'm still waiting for a customer service update on spare parts or compensation and it kinda seems like they're ghosting me.

I can smell a payment dispute.

I wanna go all the way to Germany to pick it up myself lol, can't wait.

That's a 72v - 10Kw Angwatt F1 Max

It's time to explain what happened with my Toursor X14 after doing the dual controller swap. But first, let's recall the context of that upgrade.

The controllers I installed don't come outta anywhere. They are sold by Toursor themselves, explicitly as a retrofit upgrade to their 72v X14 scooters. They even propose to install it themselves at the factory if you don't mind the longer shipping time from China Warehouse.

Toursor customer service explicitly proposes EU customers to purchase and install these controllers primarily to make the scooter more compliant with EU laws as the new controllers are compatible with a speed limiter. The slightly increased performance of 60A each instead of 55A stock was always more of a bonus of the upgrade.

Something really important in this story though, is how differently the new controllers are tuned. In fact, an important incentive to upgrade has been how sluggish the original controllers were. They are tuned to only deliver power progressively as motor RPM increases, effectively only allowing peak power output closer to top speed, in riding conditions that I never met with this unit. The new controllers though, follow a different philosophy, giving instant peak power from the stand still and then pulling back closer to top speed.

It is with this context that I will tell you how the failure unfolded.

The morning after installing the new controllers, I naturally went out to test their performance. I did a couple high speed runs that went well, and then I decided to climb a long and steep hill to actually challenge the thing. I climbed up that particular hill several times with my stock set-up and I wanted to check how much better the upgrade made it at doing so.

I went full throttle up hill and, for a while, the scooter was meeting expectations. Instantly dlivering peak power instead of struggling like I was used to. I rode 600m uphill like that, successively flooring and releasing the gas, until the motors suddenly started jerking then stopped working, leaving me stranded there, making short circuit sounds upon pulling the throttle. So I called an uber to get me home.

It was upon opening up the deck that I realised the extent of the catastrophe that unfolded beneath my feet. The front motor phase wires got hot enough to melt their sleeve along with the hydraulic brake lines, other wiring, and part of the plastic wrap around the battery. Thankfully, there was a layer of fiberglass under the initial plastic wrap that prevented the fire from propagating the actual cells. I was one fiberglass layer away from calling fire dept instead of an uber lol.

My main hypothesis is that the motor phase wires didn't handle peak controller output, overheated and destroyed the motors. This is reinforced by the fact that I later measured the phase wire diameter to an abysmal 16AWG, that is FAR from what is required to handle even the 55A limit current from the stock controllers.

That's where all that context building at the beginning of my post matters. The power output logic from the stock controllers actually protected my motors, As it didn't allow peak power in low RPM situations like hill climbing. Up this hill I was used to climbing, acceleration was painfully slow with em, as output ramped up along with motor RPM, making the system run cooler. The new controllers upset that equilibrium, with their instant peak power delivery, which put the motors under a stress that they weren't designed for.

Actually, the Toursor X14 Pro stock motors were compatible neither with the stock nor with the upgraded controllers. I probably would've encountered the same fate if I rode it stock close to top speed for an extended period.

The Toursor X14 is dangerous in any configuration. Don't buy it.

Lessons learned.

I'm out to properly test the thing and have a few high speed runs.

The stock controllers on the X14 are tuned to deliver progressively more power as motor RPM increases. It creates a pretty strange sensation, almost like turbo lag in a car. That effect is even more noticeable for me because of my weight: it takes longer to reach the speeds where the controllers start unlocking more power, making that particular tuning very obvious.

Interestingly, Toursor themselves offer this controller upgrade, mainly as a way to add a speed limiter and improve compliance with certain EU regulations. I then realized that I was already familiar with these upgraded controllers as they're the same ones used on the Angwatt T1 Max, my previous scooter.

That pretty much sold me on the upgrade, because I loved the controllers on my old ride. They delivered strong power, with up to 60A available right from a standstill, compared with the stock controllers, which gradually ramp up and maybe reach their 55A peak closer to top speed. They were also surprisingly energy-efficient, which should pair really well with the Toursor's larger battery.

About the installation itself, it was plug and play, and pretty easy with the wiring diagram you can see in picture 2. The main hurdle I encountered was the size of those controllers, way bigger than stock as you can see in the first pic. So it was a tight squeeze, and I needed to remove some foam from the battery to make it work.

This is the first time I ever did such a heavy intervention by myself and it all went flawlessly. I could turn it on and have both motors turning on the first try.

On the first couple miles I did with the upgrade, I instantly recognised my old T1 Max with that instant torque and wheelspin when I floor it. I really missed that and Am happy to get it back on a better frame that'll allow me to take full advantage of all that power.

Their march closes the annual military parade

The Ivorian Republican Guard traditionally closes Côte d’Ivoire’s Independence Day parade with a slow, ceremonial march. The leading platoon wears the distinctive ceremonial dress uniform, representing the Guard’s role in state honours, official ceremonies and presidential protocol. The rear platoon wears operational combat uniforms, reflecting the Guard’s security duties, which include protecting the Presidency, securing official motorcades, and safeguarding key state institutions and strategic sites such as the Presidential Palace, the Prime Minister’s Office, Parliament, and the residences of senior state officials.

Beyond their distinctive marching pace, the Republican Guard also stands out through the traditional chant performed in unison by its soldiers in local languages, mainly Malinke and Baoulé. Here's a translation of their chant:

Our President,

Called to serve with honour, courage and resolve,

Carries the duty of leading our nation.

May Côte d’Ivoire advance in peace,

Guided by unity, strength and wisdom.

May those entrusted with our Republic

Serve faithfully and with honour.

People of Côte d’Ivoire,

Let us stand together for our nation,

For the peace and prosperity of Côte d’Ivoire.

President, stand tall!

People of Côte d’Ivoire, stand tall!

Here they come, stand tall!

The Republican Guard is coming — stand tall!

Côte d’Ivoire stands tall! x4

They're students of EMPT, Côte d'Ivoire's military high school, marching for the country's 66th independence day parade.

I think their drill is impressive for their age.

I'm receiving my new beast tomorrow. It's a 72V Toursor X14 Pro (see picture 4)

The first ever reason why I was interested in new controllers was to kinda comply with Eu restriction and have a speed limiter. Then I heard the custom controllers offered by Toursor (see picture 1) provide extra performance, 60A on the new ones vs 55A on the stock ones (picture 2) and extra energy efficiency.

I actually know these controllers as they're mounted stock on the 72v Angwatt T1 Max I used to own, and I loved them. If I can get the efficiency I had on my Angwatt with the bigger battery in the Toursor, I'm sold.

The controller swap is supposed to be plug and play, but please, feel free to give me tips on how to do it properly. Looking forward to reading you guys.