r/ElectricScooting

This sub is growing and gaining attraction. Keep on posting, keep on commenting please!

BIG BA DA BOOM. Hope yall had an amazing 4th!!!!

Did 20 miles today, started to get hot outside 💀🥵!!

Happy 4th guys!!!

My commute to work is 18 miles there and same back about 4x a week so I'll be racking up at least 144 miles a week.

Also it's the most beautiful scenic ride I've ever been on. There used to be this viaduct along downtown Seattle and they tore it down and replaced it with bike lanes and it's kind of like a long narrow park now.

You guys will see when I finally get my camera after I get paid Monday and can make a video of the ride.

The issue I'm about to discuss concerns my Angwatt T1 Max, but it may also apply to other scooters with a T-shaped fork, such as the Angwatt T1, Boyueda S5, and Halo Knight T107 series.

Unlike on C-shaped forks, upgrading the front suspension isn't as simple as replacing the shock absorber. I'd really appreciate any advice from anyone who dealt with this type of setup.

I recently replaced the stock rear shock with a 10 mm longer hydraulic one. While it improved damping, it also tilted the scooter forward. Reducing the preload helps correct the stance but makes the rear overly soft, causing excessive squat under acceleration and increased forward weight transfer during braking.

So I got a shorter EXA 291r shock on order that I hope will solve those issues. But I know the rear suspension is only part of my ride quality problems. The front fork is in fact really soft as well, and there's no straightforward way of upgrading it that I know of. So having a stock height shock That I can finally preload into being more rigid will only solve about 50-75% of the front squatting while braking issues.

That's why I'd like to ask how I can make my front fork stiffer. Are there any aftermarket fork tubes that could be adapted to my scooter, or any way to increase fork stiffness without replacing the tubes?

If not, I'd appreciate your advice on setting the rear hydraulic shock's preload and rebound to achieve the best balance of comfort and performance while keeping the stock, relatively soft front fork.

I was riding through there yesterday headed to work and noticed all these people kept crossing in front of me even though there were signs all over the place that said "yield to peds"

For some reason I confused peds with pevs and the picture of the bike made it seem like they should be yielding to us (otherwise it would be a picture of a person)

So there was a cyclist about 30ft in front of me and we're both cruising along and a group of guys decide to cross right in between us cutting me off so I return I cut some of them off riding right between the group of people crossing (because they weren't tightly bunched and there was a little gap) and said "YIELD TO P E D's" as I passed.

Then a little while later my brain apparently rebooted and I realized peds means pedestrians lol. Those guys must have been so confused though, thinking wtf, we are the peds! 😂

For this project ill Dub it the R8 GT for simplicity But Ive got the pricing and material for it. It wont be ENTIRELY aluminum, the battery bin and Overall stem area will still be steel but the Changed bits Will be 7075-t6 Forged aluminum, The total price for it i got quoted to be 6000 yuan which translates too $885usd in my country’s Currency, It will be a one piece no hollow points as well and overall think should last long enough till i Start the r8 GTR project ill call it lol.

Should be lighter which intern give me Better W/kg and make it feel Better ride around on And as of rn Im working on finalizing everything For my electrical, Stuck on the wire pinouts and Stuff on the dualtron 5 button switch I dont know what each wire does Per button but overall So far the build is coming along slow and steady

Idk what the expected weight could Be Im honestly expecting it to Weigh around 200lbs Or less Now maybe im severely underestimating how light aluminum is and how heavy Steel is even if its just flat “thin” steel plating but Heres a total Spec list and all its features it will have

72v100ah Low voltage drop low Voltage sag battery
13.4kw Peak power output
120nm of total Torque between 2x wolf king gtr motors
~200lbs scooter weight
48” axle to axle wheel base 59” total length
13.5” tall 5.5” wide tires
Hope tech 4 V4 brakes on 3mm rotors(3.5mm later on)
Vsett 11+ super 72 Nfc Display and throttle setup
Dualtron X Limited 5 button switch
Anti theft With PROPER PKE including:
Exact voltage indication right from the key
Whether the Lock is activated or Not
Apple air tag2 with Ip68 airtag battery extension
Ip68 Junction Box for the Light module board
Thats The Part by Part list of everything going into What ill dub The R8-GT ill call My other project the GTR 👀

It's right there on amazon and it's advertised as 140db and 6 different sounds. It's loud alright especially as a rechargeable unit and my favorite feature is the separate button you can mount right where your thumb sits and everything. It's got a light that's weak as a headlight but a good strobe. Hope you likey likey. hmm hmm me so horny

These are the tires that come stock on the upcoming GS model. I ordered a set for my GT. I wanted to know if anyone has installed these and how well they perform compared to the stock 11 inch version on their GTR or GT?

I reached out to angwatt customer service to get a new led controller. That small white box at the bottom of the first image.

The stock T1 Max only has permanent amber DRLs as you can see in the second pic, while its more recent sister, the F1 Max comes with rgb leds in the frame and stem.

I simply plan to install the F1 Max led controller into my T1 Max, as both models share ALL of their other electronics. So I expect this mod to be mostly plug and play.

I also asked for the two black rectangles in the first pic. They're actually handlebar mounted turn signals (image 4) . I want them as they're mounted higher, so more visible than the stock turn signals. They're also much more repairable. Their connectors are exposed, as opposed to the stock ones that take opening up the chassis to unplug them directly off the led controller.

Finally, I asked for all of the F1 Max's led strips, as I don't know whether the stock strips are compatible with the new dynamic controller, and I also plan on adding the F1Max's stem strip in other parts of my whip.

About that one, I'm hesitant. I originally wanted a plexi sheet between the frame and the mat to run the stem strip into. But I also have the idea of making a plexiglass piece and mount it on my stem. Though, I'm currently leaning more towards the later option since it'll be cheaper. I won't need to pay a professional to make a structural piece that'll take significant stress. What would you recommend?

I did the fluid fill-up and that seemed to go pretty smoothly but after replacing the brake pads I encountered a minor problem.

The brake pistons don't retract after I pull the brake lever. The old pads were worn all the way down so I'm wondering if that could have potentially caused some kind of issue with the brake caliper? What do you guys think?

More importantly though, how I can fix this so I can get back on the road. Was really hoping to ride today

As of Right now I have gotten my angyang s300 motors or more known as the Kaabo wolf king gtr motors, 2000w motors upgrade from the 1650w HM motors i had previously more torque as well. And just now purchased the new frame since my current frame is Cooked lol Depending on the future I should be seeing this project being completed In September since the battery will be purchased in august and arrive in September, By than Ill have everything else needed like tires, Valve stem swapped hall sensors swapped motor connection And All of the lighting done.

The total cost for all of this is gonna be some where in the 3k range mainly due too The fact that The frame went up from 752usd to 916usd and paying 285usd per motor when i could of went on alibaba and got them for 185usd per motor Alongside all the other stuff like display waterproofing lighting and What not. Could i had bought an already built scooter like the 7260r? Sure. Wouldn’t of like it more though simply because it has a smaller battery than mine, deck is also smaller. PKE issue May or may not of been resolved and That Stupid Boost mode that i have to keep pressing just to get peak power for 10s while with my build i just go full throttle and get full power. Once its finished ill PROBABLY post some riding videos about it depends on if i get a phone case and A phone mount to record.

I just finished putting all my tools away and wiping the mineral oil that leaked everywhere and was about to call it a day when I decided; screw it, I'm gonna go for the Hail Mary and try one more time.

I tried again with one syringe and it still didn't work. So I tried with two, pumping back and forth like all the other videos showed and it worked 1st try! I can't say for sure if it was the two syringes that did the job or the fact that I cleaned the pistons thoroughly with cotton swabs/isopropyl alcohol and ran the whole caliper under water which may have washed away any dirt that was preventing them from retracting. But it worked and that's what matters.

Now my brakes are good as new. There is some scraping as you can hear in the video but honestly I don't really care. They work and that's good enough for me.

And for the front brake I just skipped the bleeding process all together and switched out the pads.

What a day it has been though. Thank you all who helped with guidance or advice, really makes me happy to know this sub is more like a community of people willing to help each other instead of a bunch of strangers who don't care 🫶

Got my brake bleeding kit all ready to go. Watched a couple YouTube videos and it doesn't seem as hard as the tire change was so that's some good news. And after this I shouldn't have to do any more work on it for 1000 miles assuming nothing randomly breaks.

This is not accurate since I swapped stock 14s for 11s and never swapped the p settings at around 200 miles. I'm almost 2k miles on the Pegasus and thats accurate.

3,541 Ah Ah miles. No idea what Ah means here.

Lets see that dashboard my homies!!