u/Ok-Impress120

Normal petg profile for me, never had this odd noise before today.
I’ll post more specifics on speed and acceleration in a pinned comment.

Just made this temperature tower in clear PolyFlow TPU 60D and I would like a second opinion, or a few.

Note that when the print finished and I removed the part it literally tore apart at the 240 C layer - I think I should have waited longer for the part and bed to cool down and perhaps used some agent to help with lowering bed adhesion.

Here are some of the settings used:
Printed on an Ender 3V3 KE while being fed directly from a Space Pi filament dryer at 55 C (i live in a very humid area, it’s a must for me it seems)

Tower is from 240 to 210 C
3.2 mm3/s flow rate
0.4 mm brass nozzle
70 C bed
100% fan speed cooling after the first layer.

The spool’s sticker recommends between 220-240 C for the nozzle and 70 C for the bed.

Timelapse is a bit too fast, but you can see that at some point it seems there was either a massive nozzle crash or fault in bed adhesion.

The material i used here is Silver PETG by Masterprint, the same material i have been using for a good while now with a pretty fine tuned profile. This is the first big oof moment using this material.

Any Thoughts?

This is following my very recent previous post (https://www.reddit.com/r/Airsoft3DPrinting/s/5mzptgEvGF) on this project and is to show the intensity of this light.

PS:
I dont know if the [Design] flair is the right one for this post at all, since its entirely meant as a follow up to a previous post… 🤷‍♂️

I've been slowly turning my G&G CM16 SRL into a decently customized DIY/project gun over the last months, and I figured people here might appreciate some of the 3D printed parts and homemade solutions.

Main things I designed and printed myself:
Stubby foregrip
Barrel amplifier / sound amplifier
Weapon light setup (probably the most interesting part)

The weapon light is actually based on an old bike light I repurposed instead of buying a dedicated tactical light. I wanted something powerful, with multiple light modes, durable enough for airsoft, and honestly just fun to engineer.

Its whole setup became a small project by itself:
- Custom mounting solution for the Keymod handguard

- DIY “control” cable
--> I made from two wires salvaged from an old ethernet cable, twisted together and covered in heat shrink. I then soldered each directly to the base contacts of the button on the light's driver PCB.

- Remote pressure switch
--> The pressure switch was especially fun because I wanted it to:
stay low profile, be comfortable, flex and close the circuit under low pressure instead of feeling like a hard clicky brick, and of course survive actual outdoor use.|

- Cable management for both the power and control wires
--> Some of the cable management parts were models I found online and adapted into the build, while others were custom designed around my rail setup and the unique routing requirements of the light.

- An old 2S Li-ion battery with a protection circuit as the power source
--> Originally salvaged from an handheld radio.

The amplifier was another surprisingly fun project. I mostly wanted a more aggressive front-end look and a deeper/snappier while also more directional sound signature without making the rifle front heavy, which came out ok since the amp comes in at less than 40g.

The stubby foregrip went through a few design revisions and also keymod fixturing testing to get the stability, ergonomics and proportions feeling right for my hands and preferred grip style - mostly a hybrid C-clamp grip.

Honestly one of the coolest parts of this whole thing is how much 3D printing lets you iterate:
design -> print -> test -> hate something -> redesign -> repeat
Way more satisfying than just ordering parts online or even using other people's designs.

Everything here was printed on an Ender 3 V3 KE in MasterPrint silver PETG.

I would love to hear what people think, especially from others doing DIY airsoft electronics and printed attachments.

Hey everyone, I’ve got an Ender 3 V3 KE—about a year old, not super used, but more frequent usage in the past few months.

I’m seeing a really strange issue: the auto-leveling sequence runs perfectly every time—my printer’s auto-leveling values look normal, both in the printer display and when measured manually. But after it finishes auto-leveling, when it starts printing, the nozzle is just 1–2 mm above the bed—basically printing in thin air. This started today when I tried a new TPU spool along with the generic TPU Orca slicer profile. The symptoms persisted even after I switched back to my old PETG spool—same issue, even with an old file that used to work fine less than 18 hours ago. Both TPU and PETG are from MasterPrint, so I don’t think it’s a brand difference. Even after cleaning the nozzle (it was a bit dirty — something you can also note in the video), the problem still happens. I’m really stumped—does anyone have any ideas?