r/Airsoft3DPrinting

I’m making an upper receiver for my beloved AAP-01, along with a custom lower receiver designed for Specna X-Series mid-cap magazines. The trickiest part is creating a 3D-printed HPA adapter, but I think I’ve figured out a solution. I’ll be printing it soon and will show you how it’s done.

Need to re-work stock hinge (a little bit too wobbly), add buttpad and cheek rest. Also need to get inner barrel and test the power.

Couple small things I need to adjust but generally for the very first print of this gun, its been insanely successful.

It was made two years ago, so I’m going to update and modernize it in a few places

i feel like there isnt enough of a contact surface for the hammer/knocker?
should there be more or will this be enough?

Cross section attached. This is the custom dump valve for the D8PA, my open source printable HPA engine. The current engine uses a modified commercial QEV as the back housing. This part would replace it with a single printed body that integrates the plenum, the valve and the pilot solenoid.

A lot of what is drawn here came out of the last round of comments on this sub, so thanks. The plenum between the supply line and the valve inlet, the pilot vent sizing and dropping the idea of resin for anything holding pressure all came from people here.

How it works:

1. Supply air (HPA line in) fills the plenum.
2. A restricted passage bleeds air into the chamber behind the diaphragm. Back pressure plus the spring hold it on the seat.
3. The solenoid vents the back chamber. The differential snaps the diaphragm open and the plenum dumps straight into the nozzle.
4. Solenoid closes, back chamber refills through the bleed, valve reseats. One FCU pulse, one shot, so semi and full auto are firmware timing only.

Printing questions I want opinions on:

1. The fill path is currently drawn as a 0.1mm clearance around the solenoid bore. I do not believe FDM holds that, and an annular gap is bigger than it looks (0.1mm around a 6mm bore is roughly 1.9mm², larger than the 1.2mm hole I drill in my current diaphragm). Plan is to o-ring the bore and drill a calibrated fill hole instead. Anyone got a printed part actually holding a controlled clearance that small?
2. Print orientation. The pressure boundary wants layers perpendicular to hoop stress, the seat wants a clean flat face. Those two fight each other. How are you orienting your pressure parts?
3. Material. PETG has been fine for me up to 120 psi on tube sections, but this part has a thin wall around the solenoid pocket. PC, PA6-CF or send it to MJF?
4. Seat face. Printed land sealing against the rubber, or a machined or turned insert bonded in?
5. Anyone printing rolling diaphragm retainers, or is everyone still clamping flat sheet?

Working range is 70 to 120 psi. Every printed pressure part gets hydro tested before it sees air.

I did this side project: GL40-2 Grenade/Rocket launcher. I am searching for beta testers (my airsoft team and teams nearby don't allow grenade/rocket launchers in almost all games so I cannot use this in-game), files are free for now, if someone want's to donate I would be Happy :).

It uses a double trigger, It has a double barrel, it's easy to assemble, only needs some M3 Bolts/Nuts and four M5 springs.

trying to design a hammer/knocker design and i cant figure out if the travel is going to be too far and could cause damage?

the hammer needs to travel about 50 deg before it hits the knocker and then 25 more deg while touching the knocker?

my worry is there is going to be too much energy in the hammer and it could cause damage to the knocker? i added a notch on the hammer to give the knocker more impact area but im not sure that will help?

Here It Is, I wanted a super cheap solution for who wants a diy night vision instead of buying some NVG that give almost the same results but cost 5/10 times more.

I made It with 75€ (83/85usd?).

I designed and 3d printed all the enclosure and various parts, as the wilcox mounting. What I bought are an IMX sensor from ali (40€), a cheap lcd from an old camera (you can get It for 15/20€ from ali), a plexiglass lens protector from ali (5€) and a 3x zoom Lens from ali (8€).

The weight of this Is under 250grams and It uses a 11.1v lipo/lion battery, the length Is 180mm with the eye gasket on, 145mm with the eye gasket off.

It works with analogic signals so it has an almost inexistant input lag (10ms).

It handles well little light and clear night sky conditions, so I suggest an IR 940 Torch (20€) so you can see in total dark conditions too.

This Is a pretty nice experiment that can be upgraded to Thermal Imaging in less than a hour, so with a Total of 200/300€ you can compete with way more expensive solutions like some analogic NVG's without breaking the bank.

It took a lot of effort so I hope you enjoy this summer project :)

Started this project months ago but I finished It lately :) It used a 20mm picatinny adapter and can hold a lipo Stick battery up to 121mm and some small electronics. The stock is rectractable so you can decide its length, no hardware Is needed except M3 Bolts/Nuts to fix the picatinny to the rifle.

Receiver and hand guard look great.

Also I put a ton of effort into a custom motor grip only to find out that a regular motor grip fits. So thats a thing.

I installed a Novritch SSQ4 HPA conversion kit in my Well Pro MK18 (which is way cheaper than the SSQ4).

I designed and 3D printed the mags because they are out of stock and expensive.
If you are interested in doing the same as me, the files are on cult3d.

The regular MX Lower uses custom designed and printed mags which can be finicky. After a few people who asked I decided to design an M4 Mag accepting lower for the MX.

It definitely looks different lol but I don't entirely hate it.

I also improved the pistol grip by changing where the door for the motor is retained.

I am also working on a new system for the selector to make it easier and more reliable to use.

Both of these upgrades will be passed on to the more traditional MX lower as soon as the M4 Mag lower is complete.

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Tons more work done on the arka. Finally got a fake bolt and cocking handle working without compromising strength. The cocking handle does look a little awkward but it is what it is i guess, Function over form. Motor grip is almost complete, i just need to add some vent holes in the base.

I think its finally time to start printing and testing fitment.

I can’t finish my tarkov scav Airsoft kit without it Ik there are other guns out there but it’s not the same