u/Peldin83

I have MC (F/M), Minsc, Jaheira, Aerie, Yoshimo, and Nalia right now.

I’d like to do as many companion quests as possible. But I don’t want my party members falling behind on exp because they’re constantly being dropped for that 6th slot.

I’m thinking of just going without Nalia and having a core 5. Even though Aerie is also a multi-class mage, she’ll have to suffice as my main backline caster until I get Imoen back. Any suggestions on this?

Gonna type a lot here, so I’ll start off with a TLDR: BHD becomes better than GComp earlier than I expected.

So with a comparison like this, it’s never as simple as it first seems. Context matters because everyone’s tower is different. But that being said, I think this mainly applies to eHP players who have been playing for less than 2 years without much money invested.

As for my tower, I have been extremely active from the start. And I’ve been farming as eHP the whole time. I unlocked the Wall right around the time SF came out and it’s the only armor mod I’ve used since then. And ever since PCol came out, it’s been the only core mod I’ve used for farming. And up until yesterday, GComp has been my only generator mod for farming. Those mods are all ancestral.

Some more context: Ultimate Weapons

I’ve been investing pretty heavily in to GT and DW cooldowns lately. And I finally got them to 110 seconds each. I’ve mainly followed Eff Paths suggestions for Econ upgrades so I have 3 spotlights and a decent bit in to GT bonus/duration, DW quantity, and SL angle.

As for gold bot, I have 17560 event medals invested in to it.

With GComp, I was making just under 150T coins/hr on Tier 12 getting to about 10.2k waves. And now I’ve swapped to BHD and I’m making over 180T coins/hr.

But it wasn’t just a simple mod swap. A few key things.

1. I needed to maintain pBH, otherwise I’d lose a bunch of waves. So in order to do that, I had to increase my BH duration a bit and reroll my 5th and 6th slots on PCol to get BH duration and cooldown.

2. I had to sync gold bot with my UWs. And since I had already done 10 lab levels in gold bot cooldown, gold bot base cooldown was 110 seconds. I originally had wanted to do this test at 120 seconds GT/DW but realized my Gbot lab was already fucked for that. So 110s is the soonest I could do this.

3. Sync Summon Guardian cooldown. Why not?

So let’s talk a bit about MVN. Now I’ve tried out MVN with GComp. The coin income was worse than PCol although not that far behind. The problem with MVN is that not only do you lose pBH, which is a huge amount of waves lost, but you also lose the 90% damage reduction which is even more waves lost. On top of that, you lose BH coverage going from 3 to 2.

Now BH coverage can be fixed with just bigger BH size. But the loss of damage reduction and allowing non-elites to do damage to your tower is hard to overcome. What I’ve realized is that MVN gets better as your GT and DW get better. Mainly GT bonus, GT duration, and DW quantity. I’m not sure where that tipping point is.

I want to test MVN with my new BHD but it is a bit complicated because if MVN is still worse than PCol, I want to be able to go back to using PCol. The thing is, my UW cooldowns with MVN are 79 seconds. Each upgrade in gold bot cooldown is 3 seconds. So I could bring gold bot cooldown to 80 seconds, but then I’d need to reroll one of the sub effects on my MVN in order to get my UWs to be exactly 80 seconds.

So maybe I’ll have enough reroll shards by the end of the next event and be able to give it a try.

Anyway, hope this is useful for those of you PCol users that are using GComp to get pBH while farming. BHD can be a nice upgrade.

I have a 2022 Toyota Tacoma where the front left turn signal stopped working. Started hyper flashing. Back light was working just fine. I diagnosed the issue and ended up replacing the 3-pin pigtail that connects to the bulb housing on the front left. This was in January.

Fast forward to last week. Turn signal stopped working again. Did some more diagnosis. Ground wire is still good. Power wire voltage is degraded. I tried to prove further back on the wire to pinpoint where it was degrading. The wire routes along my driver side fender wall until it joins other wires and then that bundle of wires joins up with a large wiring harness. I didn’t feel comfortable cutting that open.

So instead, I thought I could just run a bypass wire from my fuse box (the engine bay fuse box). I found which wire came out of the fuse box and spliced in my bypass wire. Ran the bypass wire up to the 3-pin pigtail and spliced it in. Cut the hazards on and it worked!

BUT, then I cut on my left turn signal and it was still hyper flashing because now my REAR left turn signal wasn’t lighting up. I realized the wire I spliced in to was powering BOTH front and rear left turn signals.

So at this point, I’ve spent all the time I can on this problem. I feel like an idiot for not being more diligent with the wiring diagram. I just want to take it in and get it professionally taken care of. I currently have the front 3-pin connector disconnected so that my rear turn signal will hyper flash.

So should I take it to a Toyota dealership since they work with them every day and will now exactly how to get my wiring back to factory? Or is this an easy enough fix that any automotive shop should be able to fix easily? Also, before I take it in, should I go ahead and remove my bypass wire so that they don’t charge me the labor to remove it themselves?

I had a 2013 SR5 that I loved. Lost it in a wreck. Now I have a 2022 SR5.

First thing I noticed. It doesn’t look quite as good. Lot of people say to remove the air dam. That helps. But I think it’s the longer hood that I don’t like as much. Still good looking truck. Just not as much.

Secondly, it doesn’t drive as smoothly. I’ve read about the OTT tune. I’m considering it but not sure I can justify the cost. If there is a way I could try it out and feel the difference for myself before deciding, please let me know.

Third, and biggest gripe: replacing the oil filter is messier and WAY less convenient.

I used to be able to set a Gatorade bottle under the 2nd gen filter (convenient bracket for the bottle to sit on) and unscrew the canister from the top. Put the old canister in. Take out my Gatorade bottle. Done.

Now? I have to unscrew the plug in the middle (with a 3/8” drive extension), screw in this plastic nozzle to let it drain. Then take off the filter housing (with a 1/2” drive extension connected to an oil filter cap wrench). Then replace two different o-rings. Pull the oil-covered filter off the housing (wearing gloves). Replace. Swap to clean set of gloves. Screw filter housing back on. Swap wrenches to screw the plug back in. Wipe oil off the brackets it dripped on. Much bigger pain in the ass.

I will say that I do like that they went to connecting the backup camera to the touch screen instead of the rear view mirror. Huge upgrade there. I also get better mileage. I think like 20-22 mpg with my 2013? Getting 23-26 mpg with my 2022. There may be more that I’m just forgetting about.

I’m not regretting my purchase really. Just mostly venting after this most recent oil change. Fuck this filter! 😝