Lost my previous dyed premier DD1 and in the words of the local league director “lol good luck bro even if someone finds it you’re not getting that back because it’s a sick dye job”
So I bought another one 🤷🏼♂️
I picked up one of the C-line P4s and I love it. Going to purchase a second but figured I would switch up the color. Listed colors are “red” “blue” and “off color” but the photos only show reds and blues with varying stamps, and when you select “off color” it defaults back to the photo of a red/pink disc.
First things first: I have downloaded, saved, highlighted relevant information on my quote from the contractor and reached out to them to rectify the situation. I have faith in them making this right but I want to plan for the worst scenario in case this becomes my personal headache.
Contractor came to do air sealing and blown fiberglass to R-60 throughout my unfinished unconditioned attic. Attic has original gable vents, but soffits and box vents were installed when previous homeowner re-roofed and changed from shake wood shingle to asphalt shingle.
We discussed sealing off the gables and installing baffles running up from the soffits as is obviously necessary. It clearly states in the quote that I approved "install baffles where necessary to ensure proper attic ventilation" I even had the stack of baffles laying in the garage right near the attic access they used to do their work. I did not realize until they finished and sent their photos of the work that they installed zero baffles and now all of my soffits are blocked.
How difficult is this going to be to install them now that I have R-60 loose fiberglass throughout my entire attic? I'm not worried about suiting up in tyvek and wading through it but I have no idea how I will determine where rafters are to walk on in the case that the contractor bails and I end up having to do this myself...
Any advice appreciated
Went ahead and treated with some sulfur powder just to be safe. This guy sat indoors under lights all winter and I noticed this BEFORE I went to bring it outside to get acclimated to sun and warm temps
Attic fan removed before attic air sealing and insulating with fiberglass to R-60. Should I be adding any insulation in this cavity or any extra steps to prevent moisture/condensation issues? Contractors caulked/foamed the seams from top side before blowing fiberglass.
Removed our attic fan and had contractors seal it shut before adding blown-in insulation. Foam board on the framing around opening, plus R-60 fiberglass above. Trying to come up with a plan of action to fill this opening with drywall and blend it into the rest of the ceiling
Lovely GATC double triangle stamp 😄
I managed to find a gen3 zenith/3M made shell but please why on earth would somebody paint the underside 😭 (and yes I know the base doesn’t match)
Moved the dining room overhead light and had to patch the hole from previous location. I can't figure out if this ceiling texture is a paint additive or how to achieve a matching finish
I’m trying to make this patch in the ceiling drywall match the rest of the ceiling. Is this texture from an additive or just multiple coats with roller?
My kitchen has a cantilevered bump-out through which the sink drain pipe runs, we had issues last winter with the old galvanized steel corroding out and a freeze finally killing it. This spring I tore off the crappy rotted Masonite "sheathing" and replaced it with exterior rated OSB (edges sealed and spray foamed for air tightness). My question is how to best proceed finishing the air seal and insulation from the basement side of things. No ceiling so all joist bays are open and easily accessible. I'm using photo 2 as my guide but was curious whether it is necessary and how to properly seal at the circled locations. Planning to fill these 36" deep bays with mineral wool batts then seal them shut using rigid foam with spray foamed edges as indicated in the diagram. First photo shows the interior of joist bays where I adhered rigid foam along the band in each bay.
Moved a ceiling junction box and working to patch the hole from the old one. Not sure how to proceed with texturing, but I’d rather not have a sanded smooth spot on the textured ceiling!
I had to replace the sheathing on the bottom side of our kitchen cantilever. In the process while I was underneath I placed 1” foam board at the ends and spray foamed 3 sides as a step towards my overall goal of properly air sealing and insulation this part of the home. The joist bay is ~40” deep and I can’t reach it with my “pro” foam gun because too tall with the can on top. Any recommendations for getting back there to properly air seal the bottom sides of these pieces?