First time rappelling... Am I doing this right??
My trad daddy said this was the only way to do it
My trad daddy said this was the only way to do it
Howdy y'all! Longtime(ish) grower here and never seen this before... Only 1 of 6 exhibiting these symptoms. 2nd photo shows a different plant doing completely fine right next to it. I can't find any pests and literally deep cleaned the whole tent before this grow. Anybody know what this might be?
Info:
HSC Hella Jelly
Fox Farms soil
3gal fabric Autopots
82F / 55RH
4 weeks or so of flower
Seems to be affecting new growth?
Transplanted into the autopots with plenty of fresh soil and amendments.
Should I just chop this one before she gets too nasty or starts getting other plants sick?
Thanks in advance!
Arrow didn't set on the launcher correctly while drawing. I was waiting out some wind before taking this 2nd shot and now thinking maybe it pushed my arrow hard into the riser? I might upgrade to the over-molded launcher now 😅 My first shot was perfect so that's why I'm so confused when it happens haha. Can't wait for TAC next week!
No questions from me this time I just want everyone to admire my new bow with me! :)
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Dream build:
Cyan string/cable
Yellow serving/peep
White d loop
Yellow sling
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Had an issue with the draw stop slipping past the cable if I pulled a little hard into the back wall. The shop just said don't do that haha. Might reach out to PSE. They also added a few twists to the cable to get the timing right. I was getting a crazy high bare shaft flight that I couldn't seem to fix. Hoping this timing issue gets it settled. Otherwise extremely happy with it! Cheers!
Howdy again! Last question for a while I promise...
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There's a shop in my area selling the 2024 Lazer for 500 USD. The new X is 900 USD. The X has the upgraded EZ.220 cam spacer system and a fancier modular grip. But once my bow is tuned the EZ.220 is essentially useless right? And I guess the grip options might be nice?
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The only downside to the 2024 Lazer is that it's a 50# DW and not the 60#. I'm currently pulling just under 50 but am still relatively new so I figured I could hit 60 with ease in due time. (I'm a fairly strong rock climber. Pulling 60 should be no problem once my tendons and ligaments adapt.)
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What would you advise between the two bows? Is the X really worth 400 more? Would I regret getting the 50# instead of a 60#? Shooting outdoor target and 3D if that matters.
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Thanks in advance!
Hello all!
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Back with another question... I'm shooting some cheap, thick Blackout X5/X3's that have been beat to hell. Out of 2 dozen total I have 8 left. And out of those 7 of them have hit grass. From friends learning, tuning my bow, setting up new sight, then forgetting to adjust the new sight for a new distance, etc. these arrows have seen some shit.
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My question is, how much of a difference would I notice buying nice Avance arrows? My local shop has the regular Avance (0.0025" tolerance) available in my 400 spine and debating if it's worth grabbing and building those versus buying the already fletched Blackout MX3's (0.003" tolerance)? Would I notice any real difference between the two? I like to think I'm pretty intermediate at this point and shooting relatively well. But even still, would I notice? I'm wanting to go to a 4.2mm ID arrow and these seem like my best options.
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The Avance are about 40 dollars more with my current build for a dozen. I'm also worried that if I up my DW (currently 47lbs but could see going up to 60) in the future then I would need a stronger arrow and would have to buy more anyways. Should I just stick to cheap X5's until I'm all settled with upgrades and changes? Maybe I only buy 6 Avance arrows for paper shooting? I'm also debating buying a new target bow (Lazer X) and unsure how that will affect my DW and such. If the cams are as nice as everyone says maybe 60 will feel like my 47? Then I'll need a 350 spine instead of 400... Lots to think about so any insight is welcomed!
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My goal is to shoot at TAC at some point in the (near) future. I've been eyeing up the Durango shoot next month and would like to be all dialed in beforehand!
Again, anyone who thought it was a form issue is asinine. Hamskea replied saying that there might be an issue with the launcher not engaging or not engaging fully. Well lo and behold, when I got home I made my same minor adjustment and the launcher failed to engage entirely... I'm unsure how I didn't notice this before but I will blame a lack of sleep and a bit of rushing. But the launcher was completely stuck until about 3 seconds of me holding at full draw before it finally snapped up into place. After snapping up like that it seems to have dug a deep enough groove in the riser to allow it to come up every time now. But I was able to recreate the issue making the same minor (1mm) adjustment. Wasn't a timing issue like I initially thought but here we are. Rest is working perfectly and shooting bullets! Hope this helps someone in the future!
Howdy y'all! I just got a Hamskea Primer and set it up real quick. Honestly amazing how easy it is to set up. I was doing my paper tune afterwards, pretty standard shots. After my 3rd shot I noticed the nock was very slightly left. So I moved my rest over literally 1-2mm to compensate and then started shooting with the nock extremely high. See 4th and 5th shot. Then moved it every so slightly back and shot a bullet hole with shot 6. My question is, what the hell is happening to the 4th and 5th shot after slightly moving the rest? Is the rest not dropping away fast enough? How is that possible with such a small adjustment? The tension on the string was very taught. Literally zero play in the rest at rest. So what could cause this??
Image 1: First shots at 25 yards dialing in my 5 pin sight. Would've technically been a bullseye if the 25y pin was sighted already... Still taking it and keeping it. I physically can't pull them apart.
Image 2: proud little archer.
Image 3: Recorded a video of me shooting 3 shots at 30 yards. This was the result of those 3 shots. Will upload the video too as I think it looks cool :)
Image 4/5: 40 yard grouping while sighting in my last pin. The wind was pretty nasty. Sometimes standing still and other times with gusts up to 20-25mph. Pretty happy with the groups.
PSE Stinger ATK all stock except a Kill Shot whisker biscuit. My peep sight broke and had to make due with a d loop twisted like crazy to compensate. Have since upgraded the drop away rest, adjustable sight, front/back stabilizers, peep, etc. Love this bow!
Well my peep broke where the cable stretched it out forward. Probably my fault as I had to retie it one time to the cable and probably tied it too short? But as I'm looking at my peep sight more I'm noticing some weird issues. My bowstring is all black but this area has some white to it. I'm assuming that's to show the strands evenly for setting the peep? So I should have even amounts of white on one side as I do black on the other? I've read this can cause peep twist which I'm now also dealing with. I have a cheap Amazon porta-press that I'm hoping to use to remove just the tiniest amount of tension to fix the issue. Maybe adding a twist to the string for peep alignment to my bottom (single) cam.
Also the little fraying on the cables is negligible at this point but don't want it getting worse, correct? Happened from setting the sight and then it moving constantly since it never held until I wrapped it with serving... I have this same fraying on my buss cables but I just bought a roller guide off Amazon so those should be better. Debating on serving those as well. And those cables were dry as shit so I just started waxing them after like 500 shots... That's my bad. All in all I appreciate any insight! I already bought a replacement peep but just wanted to replace it the right way as this does not look right at all. Thanks!
Hey y'all! Made the post the other day about tuning, pin drop and basic upgrades. A lot of folks suggested working on and keeping good form. Here's my current form. Also my pin seems to be holding steadier as I shoot more. Pretty happy with it right now honestly.
My draw weight is low for me but just working on strengthening tendons, keeping consistent form, and I had a bit of forearm pain when drawing the bow early on. But I also rock climb a ton and it's likely just overuse along with new muscles/tendons being used to push with the bow hand rather than my usual pulling from climbing.
Anyways, any tips or suggestions are always appreciated! Just trying to learn as much as I can while still shooting my best. Here's 11/15 points. Not as good as my last post but still happy with it especially being nervous on camera 🤙 Cheers!
Shot about 20 years ago as a child and just picked up a PSE Stinger ATK package. I'm pretty much addicted and shoot every day. This is one of my best volleys today at 20yards after getting my paper tuner today and dialing in a bit. (I did reshoot the middle shot for transparency. 5/6 bullseyes). But can't seem to get it dialed perfectly and I just have a few questions with nobody to ask so I'm wondering if anyone could help and have some discussion. 90%+ of my shooting is outdoors and at 20 yards.
First, I'm trying to tune and yes doing it outside with the wind. I have seen Bow Only's YouTube video and understand the implications but don't think it should affect my nock low issue. My question is, when I *sit down* about 6ft from my tuner with the target another ~6ft behind, I can get a near perfect bullet hole shooting level. See 2nd photo. But as soon as I stand up and/or move back at all (and shooting slightly down as my target is about hip high) I keep getting nock low. Should I ignore the sitting bullet hole and focus more on what the hole looks like standing? When I'm that close to the tuner/target the angle is downwards about 10-20° but when moving back it levels out a bit and I still get nock low. I've bottomed out my rest so I will have to move my d-loop and I'm a bit timid about that one. I am also aware of tuning with a bare shaft and was wondering if I can just rip off the fletching from a cheap arrow and use that?
Second, my bow naturally dips when trying to lock in on target. I try to pull a little extra into the back wall to compensate but wondering if a rear stabilizer would be beneficial? Or I've seen people adding what appears to be weights to the limb? Unsure exactly what that's for but curious if it'll help.
Third, what are some of the best upgrades for the cost? Should I look into a thumb trigger? Stabilizers? Drop away rest? I had the cheap stock whisker biscuit that was fraying bad causing crazy inconsistencies and just got the TR kill shot and noticed an immediate difference. Would I notice that same feeling going to a drop away rest or thumb trigger?
Otherwise incredibly happy with my progression and just elated to be able to shoot! I do have an archery shop about 30 minutes away from me and I'm debating on going there and talking shop with the people. Hopefully I can watch someone fix the d-loop in person rather than just online videos with the lighter technique and such. Thanks in advance if you've got this far and appreciate any input!
Gonna take it easy today and build back up to eventually send the pink one in the corner!!1!💪💪