u/RandomQueefs

I want to transfer about $80,000 from my checking account to a relative who lives 100 miles away, but in the same state in the U.S. They also have their own personal checking account. I'd like the transfer to take no more than a couple days to fund. I don't mind paying a nominal fee of under $50 or so.

This amount is way above the max allowed by Zelle. And I heard a personal check may take up to 10 days to clear in cases like this.

I'm guessing a wire transfer may be the best way. If so, is getting a copy of a check from the recipient the best way to ensure that the recipient information is correct (recipient name, address, account number, routing number, etc.)?

Planning to buy a direct to consumer electric wheelchair that runs off of lithium batteries, most likely 24 volt and up to 12 Amp hours. The ones I'm looking at weigh between 28 pounds and 40 pounds (including batteries) and can fold up.

I have a couple questions:

1. Will the electric wheel chair be allowed onboard commercial flights (domestic U.S. and international) so long as it meets the physical dimension restrictions? Or are electric wheelchairs only allowed if they are named on some sort of pre-approved list the airlines keep?

2. My understading is that the Li-Ion batteries have to no greater than 300 Watt Hours. So a 12 Ah x 24 V battery (= 288 Watt Hour) should be OK. But what if the battery label only specifies "24 Volt" and "12 Amp Hour" but doesn't explicitly state the Watt Hours? Will the airline staff do the math to allow the battery, or does the label have to actually state the watt hours?

3. I will of course notify the airline days/weeks in advance of boarding. Is there anything else I should do?

Just started learning about these wheelchairs a couple days ago, and they seem powerful enough to go up 12 degree inclines and over grass, and gravel/dirt paths, which is something that's not practical with a manual wheelchair. Hoping we can finally travel abroad (I'm in the U.S.) and use the electric wheelchair on the rougher roads/sidewalks. The range seems to be between 12 and 15 miles on one charge.

Wife has siginificant degenerative spine disease issues the last 3 years. During that time, I pushed her in a manual wheelchair. She can walk for maybe 30 or 40 yards at time, but will have to sit or lay down for a while before she can do it again. Walking even a quarter mile in a day is out of the question. But she can sit up for several hours during the day, and she has spent two or three hours a day in a manual wheelchair.

tl;dr: when you reconnect a suspension air pump, the suspension's air pressure will always drop substantially because the air has now been released from the suspension cylinder and into the pump's hose before it it reaches the pressure gauge.

I'm new to EUCs, so ended up reviewing a bunch of videos on the V9. What surprised me was that a lot of these youtubers don't know how an air pump and pressure gauge work.

Using the V9 as an example, I'd see people in videos pump the suspension up to 140 psi (for example), disconnect the shock pump, then reconnect the pump to check the pressure again, only to find that the pressure now is effectively at zero. One youtuber even went so far as to try and compensate by pumpting to like 200+ PSI, thinking that when they disconnected, it'd drop down closer to 140 psi when the pump was removed. But that's not how it works. I've been riding bicycles and using precise air pressures for decades, so I thought I'd help clear this up.

When you pump up a shock and get a reading of 150 psi, that is the pressure in the suspension cylinder. But it's also the pressure of the air trapped in the hose that runs between the pump body and the schraeder valve. Just as you disconnect the pump, all air in the pump hose loses pressure; the hiss you hear is the air leaving the pump hose, not air leaving the suspension. But the pressure in the suspension cyclinder should normally still be at 150 psi if you did a clean disconnect of the pump hose from the schraeder valve.

But if you reconnect the pump 2 seconds or 2 days later, much of the air in the suspension will be lost because it'll rush into the pump hose because the hose has low pressure. This is why the gauge now reads closer to zero than 150 psi. It's not because the pressure was low before you reconnected the shock pump.

The takeaway is that the pressure reading you see on your pump will be the pressure in your suspension even after disconnecting the pump, unless you fumble the disconnect.

Received my Inmotion V9 a few days ago. Have never been on an EUC before that. My first practice session was yesterday and 60 minutes total; did it on grass to minimize scratching it up. This morning, did another hour; this time, most of it was on concrete.

Now I'm at a point where half the time, I can mount it, ride it for about a minte, and dismount without drama. But the other half of the time, I fumble the mount; or have to bail because of wobbles, or have to bail because I can't slow down smoothly enough. I'm fine doing this every day for the next week, trying to figure it out like a cave man. So far, I've been able to stay on my feet when I bail off of it.

Me: 60 years old and 190 pounds.

I was planning to keep grinding away over the next couple weeks, practicing about 30 to 60 minutes a day. But it's always better to work smarter, not harder. Are there any settings on the V9 app that would make learning easier? Here's my current setup:

• Tire pressure: 32 psi.
• Suspension pressure: 130 PSI on bottom and 45 psi on top.
• Power assist: On
• Accelleration assist and brake assist: each at 50%
• Drive mode: commuting
• Pedal Hardness: 50%
• Tilt back set speed: 20 mph

First off, I'm a complete newbie. On a whim, I ordered an Inmotion V9 after researching EUCs for only a couple days.

Received my V9 yesterday, and have a few questions/complaints about the included instructions.

1. Nowhere on the box or the owner's manual does it explicitly state that I must first download the Inmotion app to activate the V9. So I wasted about 20 minutes before finally downloading the app to get the V9 functional.

2. Tire and suspension pressures? The owner's manual booklet has a chart for the lower suspension pressure valve(s); and the video linked in the manual explains how to pump air into the lower chambers. But there is zero mention in the owner's manual or the Inmotion video about the upper chamber; yet there are a couple of videos explaining how to adjust air to the upper (rebound?) chamber. No mention anywhere about correct tire pressure. Any suggestions as to the correct upper chamber pressure or the tire pressure for my 190 pound weight?

tl;dr: Is it OK to wear a full-face downhill helmet without the cheek pads?

Just got my first EUC, a V9. Never wore a full-face helmet before. I've been buying and using lid-type road and mountain bike helmets for 35+ years. Got a big head and the pinch points are on the sizes of my head, so my head is much wider than heads that measure nominally the same.

I just put on the Leatt Gravity 1.0 full face helmet I ordered online. The second I had it fully on, it was still crushing my head. Despite mesuring "only" 60cm, my head is too wide to fit the size XL (fits 61-62 cm heads) Leatt Gravity 1.0.

But it fits well if I remove the two 1-inch thick cheek pads. Even with the cheek pads removed, my cheekbones and the sides of my cheek and lower jaw still make some light contact with the insides of the helmet. [edited the prior sentence after adjusting the helmet a few more times.] So even if they made thinner cheek pads, the pads would have to 1/4" thick or thinner to fit my head.

So, is it OK to use this helmet without the cheek pads?

If not, are there any specific models of full face helmets that are better for wider heads like mine. I wear glasses, so it should accomodate that. Good airflow and light weight are also plusses.

tl;dr: What full face helmet can I order online that'll fit my big and ROUND head? Despite mesuring "only" 60cm, my head is too wide to fit the size XL (fits 61-62 cm heads) Leatt helmet.

I've been buying and using lid-type road and mountain bike helmets for 35+ years. Got a big head and the pinch points are on the sizes of my head, so my head is much wider than heads that measure nominally the same.

I need a full face helmet for the electric unicycle I just bought, where a faceplant is much more likely. Went to two local bike shops and all they were one model in each store, each of which was over $300. So online is my only choice.

I just put on the Leatt Gravity 1 full face helmet I ordered online. Holy shit, I could barely fit it over my head. Specifically, the sides of the helmet were way too narrow for my round head. The second I had it fully on, it was still crushing my head so I knew 100 percent that it was way too small. When I tried to take it off, I was almost ready to freak out because it was so tight...but ended up getting it off in the end.

Anyways, are there any specific models of full face helmets that are better for wider heads. I wear glasses, so it should accomodate that. Good airflow and light weight are also plusses. Budget is $100 to $150, but can pay more if it's worth it.

New to EUCs. Ordering the V9 which will have a real world top crusing speed of 25mph. But I plan to be going 10 to 15mph 95 percent of the time.

I do expect to fall and hit my helmet a couple times. I'm used to bicycle helmets, that you pretty much should replace after a hit. What full face-type (or better yet, model name) helmet will be light yet robust enough to survive a few light hits without needing immediate replacement?

Would downhill mountain bike helmets be a good fit? I don't know anything about them.

Finally, I wear prescription eyeglasses, and some paintball helmets I've worn in the past don't work with glasses. Is this a concern for full face mountain bike helmets or other helmets used for EUCs.

I'll be ordering the Inmotion V9 some time in the next week, and have never ridden anything like this before. It'll mostly be to fart around and have fun in the neighborhood. But I will explore some mild unpaved trails and might go down a couple of stairs eventually. Don't expect to go more than 3 or 4 miles from home at first. Guessing my riding speed will be 10 to 15 mph, but I may get up to 20 mph once I'm confident.

About me: fit 60 year old who for the last 30 years as been riding several hours a week in traffic with a road bike, regularly at speeds over 30 mph on the downhills, and 20 mph on the flats. Zero experience on any personal powered wheels.

So I got a bunch of questions for all you V9 owners:

1. Power pads: Should I order them from Inmotion, because it'll be only $50 more? Or do you recommend aftermarket power pads...if so, which ones? When would power pads be helpful? Are they all easily removable each time, like with velcro or something?

2. Seat: Is this something that's usefull for a 30 minute ride, or will it just collect dust in my garage? If I get the seat from Inmotion V9, what happens to it when I use the trolley handle?

3. How often do you have to top off the air in the two suspension air chambers?

4. Aside from safety gear, anything else I should buy at this point to improve my learning experience?

5. Should I buy it off the inmotionworld.com website?]

I'm a fit 190 pound 60 year old who's never ridden an EUC. Just want one for shits and giggles to test the waters. Might go 3 or 4 miles away and fart around on some easy dirt paths. I posted previously here asking about the V8s, but am now focused on the V9 due to it's slightly higher top speed, suspension, and wider 3-inch tire. I expect to cruise at a max of 15 mph; but then again, I might get the bug and ride at 20mph or even faster.

1. Which manufacturers are considered the most reliable in terms of safety? I think there's always a risk of faceplanting with an EUC, but I'd pay top dollar to minimize the chances of it happening.

2. Which other models should I be looking at that would be good for a beginner? For now, I want to keep it under $1,000. There's a good chance I might try it a few times and simply decide it's not for me. If it turns out I stick with this, I'm fine paying $3,000+ later for a more powerful one.

Want to buy an EUC just for fun. Short trips around the residential neighborhood for now, and the occasional 3 or 4 mile trip to main commercial/shop areas. I'm a 190 pound fit 60 year old who rides road bikes in car traffic at least 5 hours a week. Would occasionally ride a skateboard badly as a teen, but that was 40 years ago.

Only started looking in to EUCs yesterday, so I have near zero knowledge about this stuff. For now, 20mph is plenty fast. I'm thinking about buying the $600 (on sale) Inmotion V8S because it seems like a good fit for a beginner; if I get serious or more passionate about this, I'm fine spending $2k or $3k down the line. But at this point, I realistically may try it out a half dozen times only for it to stay in my garage for the next 10 years, so I don't want to blow $1,000+ just right now.

So, aside from the Inmotion v8s, are there any other models out there that I should be looking at that are roughly in that price range?

I do plan to get a full face helmet, and guards for wrist, elbow, and knees. Any guidance on this stuff, or do I just use common sense?

Been thinking of buying an EUC just for fun. Retired early a couple years ago and am 60 years old now. Good physical shape and spend about 5+ hours each week riding my bicycle (used to road race). Rode skateboards as a teen (mediocre skills), but that was decades ago; I have hopped on skateboards briefly with my kids, but haven't done it in years. What I'm saying is that I'm in very good cardio shape and have good coordination "for my age."

Never could afford the cool toys as a kid or even when I was married and raising my kids. But now I can easily afford $500 or even $2,000 just to try this out. Would be nice to be able to make a small grocery/library run without having to drive my car or getting too sweaty biking. Yes, I plan to wear at least a full face helmet and wrist guards.

So, is getting something like the Inmotion V8S an idea that's not suicidal?

I know all of us have accepted being categorized middle aged. But "elderly" seems to hit a little harder.

Edit: Didn't expect this much pushback from calling 65 "elderly." I realize there is no official age cutoff for being called elderly, but to the extent that you base it on age, 65 is pretty much commonly accepted as when it starts. Just google it if you disagree.

My gaming experience started with pinball and pong in the 70s. We plugged the pong standalone console into the back of our Zenith console black and white TV through the antenna. Since then, multiple Atari, Nintendo, and Sony consoles, culminating in my current PS5 setup on 65" OLED and 5.2 sound system.

WBM is one of my all time favorite games. Beat the game with the bad ending, and just got the good ending on NG+; gonna start up NG++ soon.

But it was rough. Most of the tougher bosses took me 50+ tries. I was an average player on most video games through my life, so I'm guessing being age 60 on BMW is my main issue. Can any older gamers chime in?

As stated in the title, I beat Erlang and broken shell in NG+, so i finished it with the good ending. I'm toying with the idea of platinuming by continuing in NG+ to get some of the missing items.

I also want to try out NG++, but will doing that cancel my ability to continue with the NG+ existing game?

My thinking is that since I have a pension and will soon be getting SS, that takes care of the stability in portfolio. So I can be riskier by leaving my entire TSP (nearly $2 million) in C and I funds; I will reassess every few months, but the plan is to keep everything equities to prioritize growth.

In the last 30 years, I've gone through several drops in my C fund portfolio of 20 to 40 percent and always just rode them out without any reallocation. Figured I'll do the same over the next 30 years until I croak so my kids get more money.

Is this ill-advised?

[Edit: Looks like I generated a lot of questions, so here are some more details. I'm 60, married, and retired early with a pension and living in a very HCOL area. For the next several years I'll be in the 24 percent marginal federal tax with taxable income of just over $200k after deductions without ROTH conversion withdrawals. This is because I'll be making large gifts to my adult kids and spending a shitload of money on myself to make up for my ridiculously frugal lifestyle and childhood poverty the past 60 years. State marginal tax rate here is 9.3% for me, so total marginal fed+state tax rate is actually 33.3 percent. I'm exploring Roth conversions even at 24% (fed) because if I die, the combined tax rates for my surviving wife will be very high as a single filer.]

I've been looking into likely converting a couple hundred thousand each year from my traditional 401k to Roth to mitigate the amount of RMD I'll need to make in 15 years. Most of these discussions mention that it works best to use pre-existing cash holdings to pay this tax.

But I don't keep cash like that around. If I'm withdrawing an extra $200k, then all of it will be taxed at about 30% ($60k tax) state+fed, so I end up with about $140k going to Roth and $60k going to taxes. I'm fine with that.

Obviously, if I had $60k post-tax cash laying around, I could use that pay the taxes and my $200k conversion will result in $200k going into Roth. Or I could convert just $140k, pay the $42k tax with cash, and have $140k in Roth.

I get that paying income taxes with part of the 401k withdrawal means less going into Roth, but I don't consider that a "downside." What am I missing?

If I'm fighting a boss or mini boss, the game will occasionally apply the immobilizing spell when I'm doing light attacks. Is this normal? Or a glitch?

I'm playing on PS5 with default controller layout. So for immoblize it's R2 + the square button. Square button is also the light attack button. Maybe I'm inadvertantly pressing the R2 shoulder button when I'm doing light attacks. Or maybe my R2 button is triggering itself sometimes?

So you think it's me, a faulty controller, or a glitch?

I'm 60 and have been retired the last 2 years with a pension. $2 million in traditional 401k. Exempt from early withdrawal penalties. Have already been in the 24% marginal tax bracket the last 2 years. Trying to decide whether and how much to convert to Roth over the next few years. At this point, doesn't seem like I'll save any significant tax money by converting. But maybe I'm missing something.

Here's a couple of hypotheticals:

1. 73 year old with $5 million today: Let's pretend I turned 73 in 2025 and will have to make my first RMD in 2026 and it's roughly 4 percent. If I currently have $5 million in 401k, this comes out to only $200,000 rmd this first year (but RMD rate will rise every year of course). Adding in my pension and SS payments, I would still be well below the 32% marginal tax bracket of AGI of greater than $403,000.

2. 73 year old with $10 million today: But if I were 73 with $10 million today, then my first RMD would be about $400,000. Adding in my pension and SS, this would push me into the 32% marginal fed tax bracket. So in this situation, I clearly would have been better off converting a bunch of my 401k to Roth so that my traditional 401k would be substantiall lower at age 73. I get this.

I'm having difficulty properly articulating my question, so please bear with me. But what I'm trying to figure out is what my target traditional 401k holdings should be in 15 years to minimize the income taxes associated with RMD when I'm 75 in 15 years. I currently plan to withdraw roughly about $150k/year from my 401k for the next few years, and expect to have under $5 million (as an example) in 15 years (the first year I need to pay RMD). If I do end up having "only" $5 million in traditional 401k, it looks to me like there is zero need to do a roth conversion now to reduce that $5 million.

So is there some guideline I can follow to calculate a traditional 401k dollar amount at which there's no federal income tax advantage in doing a roth conversion? I know it also depends on my other income sources at age 75+.

Completed my first playthrough of BMW last week. I locked myself out of fighting/beating wandering wight, scorpion king, and a couple of minor side quests. Also got the bad ending because I didn't beat Erlang. So I started NG+ to beat Erlang to get the true ending, and also to complete the things I didn't finish before. Not sure if I want to platinum, but at least want to have all the bosses/characters in my journal.

But aside from beating the bosses needed to progress the game through to the end, is there any point in fighting/beating characters I previously beat in my original playthrough, or getting stuff I already previously got?