Out of all the compass and Patriots ive ever seen parked or at the pick and pull; Ive never seen this ever in my 4 years of owning a patriot. A factory option cupholder ash tray and 12v Lighter made for the patriot platform. Such an awesome find. Gonna use the hell out of this Lol.
Saw this parked up when I was driving through town a few days ago. Thinking I've seen this one around town but not parked up yet. Of course I had to take a picture of them together!
Both GX models. Or I assume this one I spotted was a base model. was an automatic, no steering wheel function or cruise control. This one had the radio replaced with a typical pioneer double din. Missing a few stock pieces around like the antenna.
Nice to see another one around town. Thought I was the only one! Lol!
I bought a blank flip key fob online with what is supposedly the proper d chip for my Mazda's fob signal; in hopes of programming the lock and unlock functions to work on my car, maybe get the key cut and programmed later on.
I have 2 keys but they do not have fobs with remote entry.
I am wondering if anyone in here has bought a blank fob like I described and has successfully programmed the unlock and lock functions on the fob to work with their Mazda 2.
I also thought about getting a fob from a junkyard and trying to program it to my car, but have seen online that if it is already a programmed fob it will not work.
Anyone with experience on this matter that can leave some feedback. Let me know your thoughts.
It may not be very often you see a Mazda 2.. but to see 2 of them in the exact same colour right next to eachother; how often do you get to see that!?!?
I got out my car so fast before he could drive off 🤣🤣 had to get a picture!
Very similar spec - his was an automatic unfortunately
Certainly both could agree it's one of the cheapest and most reliable cars you could ever have!
2 proud Mazda owners in one pic 😎
I have a 2015 patriot sport 4x4 2.4L Engine and 6 Speed Automatic. Ive had an issue for quite a while with what I'm assuming is vibrations from the engine bay going into my dash and cabin.
I have noticed the most common experiences of vibrations have been when I am starting up the car in colder weather, when I am in city traffic, or when I am stuck at a stop for periods of time.
If I am in drive and am stuck at a red light. I will start to have a noticable amount of vibration going into my steering wheel and sometimes even vibrating the hood. It essentially vibrates anytime it's in drive and I have my foot on the brake or am not rolling.
My issue is always when the car is in drive. The vibration goes away when I have the car in neutral or park. I have always put the car into neutral when I am at a stop light to cut the vibration out. But don't want to keep doing that anymore and hoping to actually fix the issue.
Since I shift it the neutral to keep the car from vibrating; I am assuming it is an issue with my transmission motor mounts and/or my engine motor mounts.
Curious what everyone else thinks I'm here. If you have had similar experience or had vibrations in front of car and can help diagnose. Please leave your thoughts. Hoping maybe someone in here has or had relatively similar symptoms I described and can point me in the right direction of what the issue might be. All feedback is appreciated.
Contemplating replacing my factory radio with a 7" touchscreen radio. Preferably something name brand. Want to be able to use steering wheel controls (↑ and ↓ function) with Bluetooth or Apple carplay on the aftermarket radio. Is this possible?
I know the steering wheel functions to change between stations and tracks is for cd and radio only. But I want to be able to change my music via Bluetooth or aux. But is it even possible with any aftermarket head unit?
Worried about spending the money on a nice head unit with the wiring + hardware, I install it, and still can't use the steering wheel functionality to change songs on android auto or Apple carplay. If I'm not able to get steering wheel controls to change music on Bluetooth or Apple carplay after the install; then I am totally okay with keeping my factory radio.
Let me know if you've had the same issue or were able to figure out a solution.
I've been looking for some new rims and tires for my 2012 2 GX. I've always had aluminum rims on all my other cars. Besides hatchback cars. Not a fan of the stock steel rims and hubcaps. Since I'm keeping this car, I've decided it would be a good idea to get some nice wheels for them and use my steel rims for winter setup.
Trying to replace the steel 15" rims with some 15" or 14" aluminum rims or something stylish.
I've always really liked the style of the NB Miata rims, even before I had a Mazda. Love the simplicity And style. It reminds me of the 2000s tri spoke antera rims. After doing some shopping; I found some cheap prices NB rims with tires in my local area and thinking of scooping them for my mazda2.
After doing some research, I came across an old post from Facebook forum or a Mazda forum with a post of someone who paired the NB Miata rims with their blue DE Mazda2. I think it looks awesome from the pictures! They are the 14" NB aluminum rims if I'm not mistaken.
Curious what yall in the sub think about changing from steel wheels to these NB Miata ones? Would it look good? Should I stay with the steelies?
I think it looks pretty clean! maybe even better with a gray coloured DE Mazda2.
Let me know your thoughts.
Also If you have a tire suggestion for these 14" rims shoot it down below! Would love something that favours handling and or gas mileage. Currently have stock Yokohama tires that came on the car originally in 2012. But if there's better tires than what factory provided let me know.
Just got this a few days ago. 2012 mazda2 with the 5 Speed Manual Transmission. Sitting at just 27,550 kilometres, it has quite the story to tell.. story is; old lady (quite lonely I assume) that lived in farmland southern Ontario, bought this mazda2 new @186km and had it delivered by Probert Mazda in 2013, drove it for about 10 years, until she started to develop a bad case of dementia, which caused her to lose her license, the keys, the ownership (I'm sure you get the gist of what I'm trying to get at if you understand how dementia works) and the car eventually ended up sitting sadly in a barn or driveway for quite a while. I want to say at least 1-2 years. I also think she either left the windows rolled down or cracked and didn't realize it. I guess the old lady's house was just an absolute disaster because she couldn't take care of herself, the people I got it from said they had to tow it and had no shot of finding the keys or anything. Not sure what the circumstance was exactly as I didn't ask the person I bought it from. Like if the lady was found in the house and it was Estate sale or evicted/condemned home. Or like a family member checked on her one day. I didn't want to ask too many questions. But for how the car ended up with the first owner is quite an unfortunate story. But I think every car has its own story, right?
Anywho! I'll get to what I know the people are reading for.
A lot of work was done to put this back on the road; it obviously had new keys reprogrammed, new battery, new tires, transmission serviced, about $6500 worth of work done to it to keep it alive. I just got it certified here in Ontario Canada. Clean Carfax Record. Hoping to continue this Mazdas legacy and take it to see many different places.
It's not in the greatest cosmetic condition; but it's quite preserved in its mileage and mechanical condition for the age of the vehicle.
I've driven it about 500km so far, and I've just been having an absolute blast tooting around in this thing. Shifter feels like this gated, and shifts like a dream. Love the placement as well, very similar to a Honda element, Pontiac vibe, or a jeep patriot. Only con is the no sunroof and the armrest in the interior. I used to have a Toyota Yaris, those get a lot of love; but this Mazda2 best the Toyota Yaris by a mile in every way.
Very happy to be part of the Mazda and low miles no miles family. I'll probably end up getting the exterior flaws fixed up and cleaning up the interior. But it was otherwise an awesome purchase for where the car market and economy stands currently. One of the long forgotten but highly appreciated hatchbacks of its time.
I have a 2016 patriot north sport with 280,000km. 6 speed automatic. I've owned it since November 2022 with about 190,000km. Over the years and getting up into the high mileage. I've definitely noticed there being many issues in my suspension as I've gotten closer to 300,000; alignment, improper steering, etc. Ive also had a 4wd warning light that comes on every single time I drive the car. The vehicle has slowly become a screaming nightmare for me to want to deal with.
I also live in the rust belt, so the rust has done inconceivable amounts of damage to the suspension parts and bushings. Salt and weather rusts and damages the parts in every way.
I noticed the issues with my suspension around 260-265,000km. I kind of ignored the suspension stuff but kept up with other maintenance like brakes, tires, and oil changes. Transmission fluid too.
After doing some inspections myself, I noticed that the sway bar links and outer tie rods had so much play I could move them around with my pointer finger. Inspecting got more rough as I looked. It's obviously gotten so bad that I'm concerned my car actually might fall apart on the rear end.
The engine runs great, but the suspension is just shot. I've made considerations to let the car go.... But I feel my car deserves another chance at moving forward.
ANYWAY .....
I've made the consideration of replacing all of my front and rear suspension components down to every last bolt for my jeep patriot. I'll probably have to replace a few sensors and maybe a brake caliper here and there during the job, but it is to be expected at that mileage and with the presumably insane amount of wear and tear.
I'm curious to know the cost of this job and what price or amount of money I should expect to be spending for front and rear suspension work labour costs.
Parts for front and rear suspension is about $1020 CAD dollars with taxes included (20 piece kit with bolts) it includes front and rear struts too. Detroit axel Brand and a few moog I was told to get.
what amount of $$ or amount of labour hours I should be expecting a job like this to take?
My budget is about $2400 Canadian. So as long as my labour isn't over $1500 or 15-20 work hours. I may consider getting the work done. BUT FOR THE PRICE... IS IT WORTH PUTTING THE MONEY INTO THE CAR??? to get maybe 60-80,000km more out of it? Not including other work that may need to be done in the future?
I'm the end after all is said and done. I know the car will drive like new. I just don't want to spend too much money on the car to the point where I'm way over my head on something that actually isn't worth it.
But I am coming here to get everyone's thoughts. So let me know what you think its going to cost me to get my entire front and rear suspension rebuilt for this 2016 jeep patriot. Whether it is worth it or not. Cheers.
Unsure what year the matts are, I assume they are from a 2008-2016. Not too sure. But I saw this in someone's car and thought it was pretty cool. Looks like the front and rear fit snug on the Jeep Patriot. Just in case someone needs some rubber to protect their carpet. Can find an 8th gen accord with rubber floor Matt's.
Curious was the safest and ideal way to store for the long term. Am I okay to leave them in a closet? Fridge ideal? Let me know your opinions!
Looking to replace my crankshaft and camshaft position sensors on my 2015 patriot. I was looking to go the OEM route, but the Mopar sensors seem to be outrageously expensive compared to the non OEM sensors out there such as Walker. Ex. $120 Mopar sensors vs $30-60 walker non OEM sensors.
coming here for advice before I consider purchasing anything.
Looking for anyone that has replaced their camshaft position sensor or their crankshaft position sensor in recent time that can give me advice. I am curious whether I am able to use a non OEM sensor like bosch brand without having codes or errors, or if it is a definite requirement to use Mopar OEM sensor for a successful replacement. Anyone that has had theirs replaced or has done a replacement and can give me some guidance on this, all help us appreciated!