I have a feeling mine arent doing so well. The truck feels like it has more in it but its just not getting there. They are original cats at 400k km.
To preface, there are no codes. Is it safe to rely on "If there arent codes, then it cant be THAT bad". Or is there a chance they are still fairly backed up?
Hey there, been trying my best to get some shurtrim peel and stick vinyl baseboard layed down. No matter what I do, it will.not hold. I have added no more nails, contact cement. Used a heat gun to help mold it but it just refuses to stay. Stick to shape properly. If it kinda sticks it gets a wavy skirt no matter how much I press and spread.
Im am absolute newbie to this, so any tips are welcome.
I posted on another forum, was recommended the relay from 4R customs. Being me, I just bought instantly and thought nothing of it. Big mistake. 25 shipping and 30 Tariff fee's later, I have a DRL vehicle that can't use the relay.
What are my options? I bought the runner with a custom front bumper, I guess I could swap the tiny bulb for non LED but I dont think it would be visable at that point.
So, yesterday I went through a 1 foot puddle at about 50km/hr. Immedietly after the vehicle felt a bit week and "aery" on the acceleration and sound.
I parked, checked air filter (bone dry) and no signs of water in engine. As far as today, she drives and has power if I hit the pedal harder or manually select gears. But something feels off.
It has a highflow CAT. But never sounded like it before, now it sounds like it. I wonder if it was blowed a bit and I somehow dislodged. This I have no idea on, or what I can do to test if this is all in my head or not.
Cope -> Just exaust, she sounds louder but my brain thinks more sound and im not going any faster.
Reality -> Did I crack my exaust manifold with the flash of cold water? Blow seals in exaust?
Any input appreciated! Below is a video of revving after I got to work. I am also highly paranoid currently as I previously got a lemon vehicle in desperation and it was neverending issues and breakdowns.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-TEXjtaOTEc
More towards the end the sound becomes more clear (with higher revs).
To preface, I messed up. Was I driving drunk? No. But watching over the vehicle in the passenger seat was against the law, I didnt know and broke it. I accept the device. That is not the issue.
I could write a book, but long story short I have had 2 vehicles put out of comission in 1 month by Smart Start. Now, I have to wait a week for a "troubleshoot" appointment, after they killed my new vehicle yesterday. Turned around went back to the shop right after installation because it wasnt working. They refused to touch it and said make an appointment.
Has ANYONE, been able to work with this scam company? Has anyone fought back and won? Has anyone made any ground? They are the sole provider, by my questionable goverment in my province. There simply is no other options. It is ridiculous. It has taken everything in me not to completely lose my mind in the last month dealing with this. I need to drive for work, I started to program FOR this job. The economy is in the pits. I cannot lose this job. But the soonest they can do is a week out after bricking my vehicle.
The more I work with them, the more I want a drink after 2 years of sobriety. I cannot handle this level of abuse. It truly feels like it is the goverment itself doing the abuse, considering Smart Start is the sole provider put in by my provincial goverment.
As with my other post, I am a new owner of an 03 SR5.
It came with an aftermaket high clearance front bumper. The signal light is wired to small led's on each side, and on the main headlight fixture there is nothing for signal lights (I know, they are part of the bumper that was removed). The area I live in, I highly expect a police office to pull me over for that being my only "signal light". I wonder if I can get something larger and put same wiring through?
Or, even better. Wire it so the vehicle thinks there is all signal lights wired and working, so they do not blink super fast signalling cops to think I have a light out.
As always, any help or comments appreciated!
Just purchased an 03. It came with some decent stuff. Mod front bumper, Blistein suspension. No preformance mods but thats okay. Give me some stuff to do.
I am a little paranoid, before this I got an Xterra and it was a lemon. So much hidden wrong with it (I was definitely played in a desperate moment). I THINK the engine sounds good, my father also scoped the vehicle out before I purchased and approved but Id like to check now with a group of people that know their stuff.
https://youtube.com/shorts/ISOtar9zONM?si=--Btcm6yZM2InCSv
I hear a small ticking while the engine is running, is this normal? Does she sound good?
-IF the engine checks out (transmission is golden. smooth as butter, perfect fluid after 20k, will be drop and filling anyways).
-What else would you reccomend? I want to get the differentials done.
-The interior isnt in the best shape, I will do seat covers. I want to replace some center console stuff, and last owner broke a couple clips when trying to get to repairing the rear sub.
So, ever since I replaced my tranmission solenoids the vehicle has ran better... HOWEVER.
If I give heavier gas, say medium pedal press, release, then give light gas sometimes the shift will delay. I do not believe my RPM jumps during it, but it feels kind of like a slip.
I could be over worried about the transmission, thinking its failing. Mainly because if it goes, the fix is worth more than the whole Xterra at this current point. I just wanted to get some input, maybe I am confusing the chips and it doesnt know what gear to use due to eradic driving.
I also have gotten P0507 and P0171 codes since cleaning the throttle body. Which I did right after I fixed the transmission. I wonder if the throttle being off a bit is also affecting the shifting. I have also done the pedal dance to recalibrate, and even with the codes my idle is back down to 600RPM. Previously 1k pre cleaning, and 1200 post cleaning.
Thanks ahead of time for any input!
So, I went to remove my AC clutch. It doesnt kick in when AC turned on, magnet dead or some what. There is resistance, lightly however on the front plate when hand spinning so I assumed the compressor was not seized.
I believe the socket is 10mm. I think I get it on, and go to spin and my socket just spins, I dont think the bolt is spinning at all, it feels locked in there to the touch. But the front plate doesnt move with it, and I assume my socket is not on? Or im crazy? Or my IQ is lower than the amount of Xterra's with less that 30k Miles on them.
Any advice appreciated. My last guess is the bolt is completely threaded, and I need a new compressor.
Hey all, I ordered an oil pressure sensor online. It came, and when I went under to plug in the electrical side was perfect, but the thread was too large to go into the engine.
I found out after the fact, theres a "sensor" and a "switch" for the oil pressure. I am trying to do the one that feeds to the gauge on the dash... so was I replacing the wrong sensor, or did I order the wrong part?
There was no SMOD! I had error P1759. Full limp mode. I am hurting financially right now after a swan dive into bigger things. So my only choice was to order the fastest arriving solonoids, and try the service myself. It actually went fairly well, except I didnt line up the manual arm properly. I will be dropping it again tonight to rectify and hope all is well.
The real reason im making the post, is when I dropped it everything looked brand-spanking-new. Spotless inside, valve body, transmission, gears. The oil was rough but even the magnets just had some sludge, no solids. I have hope that if I did the solenoid properly, and I get that arm set properly this evening... This Xterra May have a decently long future ahead of it.
Maybe its affirmation of hope for the future im looking for, but if she runs I am now debating (with a little more confidence) purchasing a full new Valve body, TCM + solenoids to plop in. I was not expecting the transmission to be in that nice of condition. (of course when funds allow).
Also, I know I am long winded, have terrible pacing and grammar. My apologies for it. In person I have 0 people to talk to about the Xterra, or any work being done.
EDIT: After redoing the control arm, (and deeper inspection of TCM). She is running better than ever! Night and day difference. Feels good to have my first transmission maitenence be done, and succesful. Thank you all for the positive support!
This is an extension of a past post of mine. I am not a security tech exc, I am a building operator looking into an issue we have been having and have been tossed around on for years (I recently took over the property).
Our car 1 works normally, but our car 2 Has intermittent bit mismatch errors. It has gotten worse, and now has unknown errors. I was with our elevator tech recently and had access to our box's so I took some quick pics of the wiring to check for shielding/grounding.
From my limited knowledge, it looks like our S2 box in the elevator room does have the wiring compatability to switch to OSDP although we would need an adapter/new fin?
Someone else also mentioned using a splitter OTPW-100 to solve the issue. That I dont know much about, but any info would be great before asking for a quote/suggesting to my superior.
I had posted to another forum, sadly no responses. Any input is welcome!
As the title states, there is a clunk when slowing down. At first I thought it was my breaks, and or suspension. Did breaks and one of the clunks left but... the other remained. If I go into neutral when slowing down it does not happen. This did lead me to believe it was the transmission. Although upon learning further this doesnt eliminate other sources (mounts, drivetrain exc) Otherwise it shifts and drives smooth.
Im praying someone has tips, or checks I can do to figure out what it may be. Of course, I pray its something simple that I can do myself... and doesnt end up being a new transmission/Full rebuild. From what I have read its only the clutch being worn that would cause a full rebuild while other pieces can be changed from under if needed.
Last time I checked, I felt like the fluid was too high. (After purchase) but I didnt cycle the gears, and also it was a strange dipstick to read. I will be doing another check here after I am off work in 100% proper way. I dont know if too much fluid could cause this issue.... but im basically just stressing here and getting in my own head.
After writing above and posting, The truck got a check engine and limp mode. I ran a code scanner, (with access to drivetrain exc) and it came up as break solinoid(I just redid the breaks, all were kosher except drivers side front had a seized pin. I got it moving but its not moving best. Will be fully replacing calipers soon), nothing on the transmission. Although I could audibly HEAR the fluid basically boiling when I went under. I immedietly did a drain and fill. The fluid was rough. Dark dark red, luckily no solids in it or chunks. I am not reddit savvy but image link:
https://www.thenewx.org/attachments/oldtranfluid-jpg.175630/?auto=webp&fit=bounds&format=pjgp&height=1920&optimize=high&width=1920
After changing the fluid, she ripped. Felt like driving a tiny car with the pickup off 0 and speed.
As of this morning drive to work, there was no clunk on slowdown but im not going to eliminate it as "stopped". It was a chili morning and every was cold on the vehicle for the drive.
While I do fear SMOD, I have not seen any signs of it. The rad is clean, fluid showed no signs exc. Although it is not the original radiator the man that sold it to me said it was taken in on recall for the service to fix it. I could have been lied to, but did message him last night. I prefaced im not mad or angry and just looking for any info on issues if there werent disclosed in the sale. I understood I bought it quickly and in desperation. I just want to fix it up now instead of having as a temporary vehicle.
Thank you again! I know its a book, and I suck at pacing and communication. Any input would be great!
My buddy got his license and his father is giving him his old cadillac. Everything is done over, but his dad is very safety oriented which, fair enough.
The LAST thing before he says road worthy, is he doesnt like the amount of free play there is on the break.
Now I am not a mechanic, but I seem to remember that these bad boys have an adjustable freeplay with a long AF bolt on her, and I found said bolt but... where do you adjust? Or am I just completely trippin on this.
Looking for advice from access-control/security techs.
We have a LenelS2/S2 system with elevator cab readers. One elevator intermittently fails fob reads and S2 logs bit mismatch. Programming appears to match the working elevator reader, and both elevator reader setups look the same in S2.
Important detail: the physical reader on this elevator was replaced about 2 years ago, but it did not solve the issue. So I’m leaning away from the reader itself being the root cause, unless the replacement was configured the same way or the issue is damaging/corrupting readers over time.
Using S2 Card Decoder on the same known-good fob, I saw:
So the same credential is not consistently reporting the same bit length or card number.
The issue happens randomly, sometimes while the elevator is moving and sometimes while stationary. The elevator also appears to do frequent reference/learning runs between the bottom and top landing.
My suspicion is not card-format programming or the reader itself, but Wiegand signal integrity somewhere between the cab reader and S2: D0/D1 wiring, reader voltage drop, ground/shield issue, travelling cable noise, S2 reader port/blade, elevator interface wiring, or electrical noise from the elevator equipment.
What would you check first?
I’m building operations, not the security contractor. I’m trying to collect better evidence so we can push the right vendor: elevator contractor vs security/access contractor/save time if we have to have both on site to have this issue resolved. It is an 11 year old issue and I have recently taken over operations of the building.
Edit: Thank you all so far for the advice. Of all the communitys, this one has been the most receptive to questions! My job isnt a "perfect all", we are just always around, try to fix if we can (withing limits) and hire trades as needed from there out. I always try and learn and apply before straight calling out. So thank you all !
https://youtube.com/shorts/wwiDElCy8QA?si=JmbrzQp4onVyYBRq
I replaced serpentine, and changed power steering fluid. The sound was much worse before and would just happen while idling. Now it is only after revving and getting RPM up. I am at a loss.
O ring? Power steering pump? Tension pulley? Idle pulley? Any help appreciated!
Edit: After posting and listening again, there is a strange air sound happing pre rev and trickles after.... could that have something to do with it?
I was going to swap it after a year for a 4Runner, But I feel like if I get it running well I may just chill with it and pump money into it passively. They are pretty cool.
Power Steering squeels, after running for a while and if I turn the wheels hard in one direction. I HAVE purchased a serpentine belt. If anyone knows of ways to narrow it down to pump, or tensioner(name escapes me) I will order those also.
Oil Pressure gauge is broken, Oil level is perfect but its always maxed out. That or theres something very, very wrong.
When I slow down in it, theres a clunk. Sounds like back right side. Im PRAYING its the suspension, as the suspension is basically non existant. But Theres probably much worse things it could be.
Theres a rattle sometimes, but the exaust is loose. That's a fix I can do, and if that doesnt fix it then its a much worse problem.
Brake pads are cooked, squeelin hard. Easy fix, already have pads.
Any guidance for checks, exc is appreciated. I really want to narrow down the power steering, so I can order whats needed before the weekend. But if I cannot ill just change the belt and go from there.
Also I can smell burning coolant, but theres no leak I can find? Could the serpentine be too loose and causing power steering/water pump issues?
I know my grammar sucks, and pacing... I basically just suck at communicating. I full expect some flaming.
Operator here, Recently took over a property with 2 elevators that have been having "Issues".
Car 1: Door sometimes thinks its jammed, its not. Pretty easy fix not the biggest deal and fairly common. (I wish Schindler could just dial it in although. 1-2 entrapments a month and the tech just saying it "works fine" and leaving is pretty annoying. Considering we get billed either way.
Car 2: The big problem. There were some issues with the car far before my time. These guys are about 11 years old now. When I took over, I was told it just doesnt listen to commands, wont accept fob reads and people cant call to floors. I was informed that Schindler says its the security companys fault, security says its Schindlers fault. They have reprogrammed the car twice and changed the reader.
Now, initially one would think its the moving cables that are the problem. EXCEPT, after tracking it for about 2 months now... I think otherwise. This car after every run, say goes from 1st, to 3rd, to 11th, back to 1st, then does a calibration run. 1st->7th Floor (door will not open), back to 1st. Will not accept floor calls, fob reader wont read and appears on system as bit mismatch. This checks out to me considering calibration has highest priority and the fob reader would get an error sending data, then giving me a bit mismatch.
My main curiosity here, It is NOT normal for an elevator to calibrate after every trip correct? I am not crazy? This has been escalated now that a law firms client wandered onto the elevator, and it started its calibration cycle. Her thinking she was trapped, had a full panic attack screaming bloody murder and freaking out half the building thinking someone was being attacked. I fail to see how after 2 reprogrammings nothing has been solved, the issue is worse (not to mention, the elevator refuses to take more than 2 floors qued no matter what the weight on the elevator is) That we would have to pay out at full to have them program again to try and fix what the last fixes made worse.
I should clarify, the initial reprograming was for an "issue" of the elevator not listening to commands. It was just an owner of multiple floors staff being annoyed they cant take an up elevator 1 floor down and it wouldnt listen to their fob.
Sorry for the long read, if I get any info id be more than estatic. I probably just need some affirmation before I call in. And if I am in the wrong, I fully accept that and learned something.
