u/ScratchAltruistic544

I want to install oil and transmission coolers into my IS500 but have heard not the best reviews for the RR Racing kit. Can folks point me in the direction of great coolers that I could DIY install myself?

After months of having them sit, I finally DIY installed the Lexus ISF front calipers. The install was much easier than expected and I will walk you through everything you need to do step by step.

1. Jack up the car on all 4 corners (you will need the anyway for bleeding the 4 corners)
2. Remove front two wheels
3. Unbolt two 17 millimeter caliper bolts and hang 4 piston caliper up with a hanger, don’t disconnect the brake line yet
4. Take pliers, bend the top portion of the dust shield back and pinch it so it folds tight. It is only the top portion of the heat shield that needs to be bent. You can bend or cut if you have the tool.
5. Bolt the 6 pot caliper on with the 17 millimeter bolts
6. Grease shim plate of new brake pads, install new pads and hardware. Go on YouTube to look at ISF front brake service to see exactly how to install the three pins and other hardware
7. Clamp your brake line, use 14mm socket to take off brake line from old caliper and put it on the new caliper. Make sure to thread it on properly. (I did this without a clamp and didn’t lose much brake fluid if you do it smoothly)
8. Repeat on the opposite side
9. Bleed well 4 corners from the farthest to the closest of the reservoir. DO NOT LET IT GO DRY (PR,DR,PF, DF) with Dot 3 or Dot 4 fluid. I did a full flush to Dot 4. (you can do a vacuum bleed, gravity bleed, or whatever technique you know. Pumping the brake pedal didn’t get all the air out the line for me, likely because I’m a novice lmao)
10. Put the wheels back on, drop that bad boi down, and go driving!

Has anyone done the direct & port injection upgrade + upgrading the fuel pump on their ITS? I heard it improves the reliability and longevity of the engine

1st wash day, can’t wait to put a graphene coating on 😍

Any recommendation for mods?! currently have otw:
- Uniden R4
- Gas pedal spacer
- Mudguards
- Tint
- Dashcam

This was the hardest mod I installed on the car just because of the tools I had but it was well worth it. With a pedal commander, it feels like this car HAULS ASS in a crazy way.

Not an immediate mod to do on your build, but definitely one that is worth while!

What I like:
Faster and smoother shifts
Improved throttle response
Driving feel (Ik it sounds crazy but everything seems lighter)

God is graceful and merciful on this long weekend!

2024 ITS, 17K miles, clean carfax and no accidents. Is this a good deal or should I keep aiming for $45K OTD?

I am doing an underglow kit install on my 23’ IS500 and I can’t figure out more to route the power and ground wires from under the car into the driver side interior where I have the wiretap ready to go.

Does anyone have a video or anything I can use for reference? I don’t even know if I need to take the undercarriage covers off

I have a 2014 Nissan Altima 3.5SL with 170K miles. I just got a P17F1 code and a host of suspension things that need replacing (both LCAs, tire rod, wheel bearing). I am experiencing some vibrations and nose and steering wheel shake when I am cruising without pressing the throttle and when slightly breaking. This stops when heavily accelerating and breaking.

It could be fixed by a cv axle replacement + drain & fill but I don’t see any of the cv axles leaking or looking abnormal. The right passenger cv axle has a little more give when shaking it than the driver side.

Is it worth the repair to do the drain & fill + passenger cv axle relevant or should I find a way to get rid of the car. It’s been in the family for 13 years

OP update here from previous post, for all the folks who didn’t believe in clogged ceramic coatings I believe I understand why. I was washing my car biweekly with ph neutral soap for the full 1.5 years the car had been coated with Adam’s graphene ceramic coating. The door panels started sheeting and I couldn’t figure out why.

Today, I restored the hydrophobic properties by using acidic cleaning products. I guess most people would just call that a dirty car and some call it clogged. But I:

1. ⁠Fully rinsed the car
2. ⁠Foam cannon with Adam strip wash, let dwell for 3 minutes, agitated door panels, and rinsed
3. ⁠Iron remover in the door panels and rear of the car, dwell for 3 minutes and rinsed thoroughly
4. ⁠Foam cannon with Adams car shampoo (ph neutral) and fully washed the entire car

This restored hydrophobic properties but I then decided to

5. Use adams graphene detail spray as a drying aide and towel dried the car.

Thank you everyone for your input and comments. And making the thread hilarious!

I’m pretty sure my ceramic coating is clogged. What’s the proper order to unclog it on a wash:

1. Adam’s PH neutral foam and rinse
2. Diluted Adam’s strip wash foam and contact wash
3. Adam’s Iron remover and rinse
4. Ceramic sealant spray and dry

Is this right?

Kachow

My daily needs a whole new suspension and cvt transmission, so I’m gonna scrap it but I need to know what’s the right choice to make for a daily.

I wanna get a used manual car I can put crazy miles on but I’m debating between the Integra A Spec w/Tech or the Integra Type S.

Anyone who drives either wanna weigh in their opinion on the vehicles? Will take all opinions and thoughts!