r/Nissan

Currently driving a 2010 Nissan Pixo and was wondering the most cost effective way to give a cleaner look on my wheels underneath the trims? Not the best picture but all 4 wheels look relatively the same. This is an old car and will only keep for another year or two therefore trying to keep costs low. Also planning to clean up and purchase some tyre shine as well as clearing up my headlights.

Also don’t worry, tyres have been inflated today

Made with pencils and markers on A3 paper size
Took me about 30 hours of work to make it

This car looks absolutely fantastic, but the only thing missing is a boosted engine and hp trim. like imagine an option for a 250-300hp turbo like how they offer in the civics??

I have been thinking about buying an oldtimer ever since I got my drivers license. Because it is so much cheaper (no roadtax and much cheaper insurance) and more unique and fun. Now I finally got one! A 1986 Nissan Micra k10!

Is it the cheapest car? No

Is it the most reliable car? No

Is it the most efficient car? No

Is it the most practical car? No

Is it the most comfortable car? No

Is it the safest car? No no no

Is it a fast car? No

Is it a very fun car? Yes!

And even all those things I mentioned it isn't actually that bad at. It wasn't that expensive. It is a Nissan, so decently reliable. It is actually pretty efficient (1L on 20km). It is surprisingly spacious on the inside. The seats are actually really nice and eventhough it only has 4 gears, it isn't even that loud on the highway. It isn't fast, but 50hp on 670kg is not very slow either.

It is pretty unsafe... the only safety feature is seatbelts...

It is also extremely well maintained. It has been stored indoors for most it's life. It had a rust prevention treatment from new. And as I said, it has been looked after really well. The previous owner planned on driving this car for the rest of his life, but do to situations, he realistically wouldn't drive it for the next 5-10 years. So he sold it.

The previous owner bought a donor car in the past and I could take all the parts from it with the purchase. We sadly couldn't take everything since we don't have any place to store it all. But still we filled up 2 cars with parts. I got another full engine, 5 wheels, doors, bumpers, windows, drivetrain parts, electronic parts, interior parts... I now have basically 1,5 Micra's.

Funny enough, we could fit more in the Micra, then in the 2020 Hyundai Kona.

Also, fun fact, here in the netherlands are only 72 Micra K10s still registered. So it is pretty rare.

My Nissan key (photo) doesn’t have a hole punched through for a keyring, so I can’t attach it to my remote fob. It’s just a solid metal blade with the broken plastic head.

I don’t want to pay a locksmith a ton of money just for this. Has anyone drilled a hole into their key themselves? What’s the safest spot to drill so I do not want to break it any further. Any recommended drill bit size, or is there a cheaper/easier fix than drilling (like a key ring adapter clip that clamps on instead)?

Budget-friendly suggestions welcome — trying to avoid a $20+ locksmith visit for something this small.

Just started doing this today and noticed that the shifts are very idle and when trying to accelerate is very sluggish has anyone had experience with this type of issue?

I need help figuring out wtf is wrong with my car.
I’ll attach what’s been going on the past 2 weeks and I’m running out of options 💔
I called my local Nissan Dealership because I had a friend say that my car needs reprogrammed.
This is my first big girl car from a dealership and I’ve never had problems like this

Greetings fellow Z heads. Sharing progress here so far of my second Z build, this time a Performance 6MT. Nearing planned finish line (hopefully) with just a few more mods remaining on my list to get done.

Wheels/Tires

• NISMO LM-RS1 (front: 9.5"x19" -22mm offset / rear: 10.5"x19" -12mm offset)
• Continental ExtremeContact Sport 02 tires (front: 275/35/R19 / rear: 305/30/R19)
• Cosmis forged floating seat lug nuts w/ aluminum sealing caps

Suspension

• Silver's NEOMAX coilovers w/ Swift springs
• Z1 adjustable suspension kit (forged UCAs, camber arms, toe arms, traction arms)
• Z1 front and rear sway bars

Performance

• CZP heat exchanger
• CZP high-capacity aluminum oil pan w/ magnetic drain plug
• AMS 80mm air intakes
• B6A 3" catless/resonated lower downpipes
• AWE 3" exhaust system (touring) w/ 5" chrome double-wall slash tips
• Sonictuned/EcuTek custom tune (three maps)

Exterior

• Axis carbon fiber mirror housings
• Axis carbon fiber katana blades
• Axis carbon fiber license plate frame
• LED auxiliary driving lights
• CZP aluminum undershroud
• Z1 tow strap

Interior

• 3M ceramic tint (15% windshield strip and doors, 5% quarter windows and hatch)
• B6A carbon fiber trim kit (matte, post photos)
• B6A carbon fiber steering wheel (matte, post photos)
• LED strut crossbar illumination
• LED map and cargo illumination

Audio

• Screen ProTech matte/non-glare/non-fingerprint film kit
• Apple CarPlay OEM interface
• JL Audio DRC-205 multi-function twin-rotary remote control
• JL Audio VX800/8i 8-channel, 800W DSP/power amplifier
• JL Audio VX1000/1i 1-channel, 1,000W DSP/power amplifier
• Audiofrog GB10 1.00" high-frequency drivers (2)
• Audiofrog GB25 2.50" mid-frequency drivers (4)
• Focal K2 Power ES 165 KX2E 6.50" low-frequency drivers (2)
• JL Audio 10TW3-D8 10.00" sub-frequency drivers (2)
• Custom air-suspension subwoofer enclosure/equipment rack
• Custom anodized aluminum articulation tweeter pods
• SoundShield/Vibrofltr/Resonix acoustic treatments
• Six custom DSP tuning profiles:
  1. Driver position optimized for SQ with windows closed
  2. Driver position optimized for SQL with windows closed
  3. Driver position optimized for SQL with windows open
  4. Passenger position optimized for SQ with windows closed
  5. Driver and Passenger positions compromised for SQ with windows closed
  6. Driver and Passenger positions compromised for SQL with windows open

Still to come once I settle on the right pieces...

• Carbon fiber front lip
• Carbon fiber side skirts
• Carbon fiber rear spolier
• Carbon fiber diffuser
• Weighted shift knob
• Short-throw shifter kit
• High-performance brake discs and pads
• High-performance clutch and flywheel
• Oil catch can

PS: For some reason there appears to be a limit on number of photos that can be posted in OP, so posted the rest below.

On a scale of 1- absolutely screwed where am
I?

I just bought this car. 😭 a week ago.

Did a mini trip to my dad’s so he could tint my altima since it came with 70% or “transparent” lamination and after 3 hours in the highway with cruse control and ofc a bit of stop and go traffic because its florida and I averaged a nice 45.6mpg on my trip back and when I got to him i got 42mpg after same stop and go traffic im surprised how fuel efficient this car is and also A FULL TANK IS 559 miles WTF i never had a such great miles per gallon in a car my 2015 veloster turbo ultimate (6speed) used to get 29mpg on a GOOD DAY and it was PREMIUM and 19mpg everyday. This is such an upgrade my first week and already put 1,500miles cvt fluid is getting changed next week :)!

While I was replacing the alternator, I accidentally bumped the small plastic that the hose was connected to and it broke off inside of it. I can’t clamp the hose any further because the plastic broke off without any base really left. Any tips for fixing this without needing a whole new radiator?

somebody please tell me what this noise is!!!!! I’ve gotten it looked at FOUR times and the dealership can’t give me any answers