Anybody know what's in Rubio Raw Wood Cleaner product? Rubio strongly recommends it prior to applying 2C oil but it's almost 4 times the cost of acetone from the hardware store. Acetone doesn't raise the grain, removes anything oily or waxy from the wood surface and dries very quickly. Any reason to spend the extra money on the Rubio wood cleaner?
I'm renovating a kitchen and will be installing an over-the-range microwave. It's on an inside wall so the easiest and shortest path would be straight up through the attic and out through a roof vent. My plan is to put a 3 1/4x10 to 6" round adapter in the cabinet above the microwave, then straight up into the attic space with a solid 6" round pipe (not flex), then out to a roof vent.
But I live in a place with very cold winters (occasionally down to -35C). My concern is condensation occurring inside the pipe running right back down into the microwave. I will install insulation on the pipe, but not sure if that will be sufficient to prevent condensation when it's that cold? Pipe wrap insulation can't be more than R5-R8 right? Doesn't seem like it would be enough to prevent condensation when venting moist, room temperature air into a frozen attic space. Maybe I'm overthinking it?
I could avoid the whole issue by going out sideways through the cabinetry and venting out the wall, but a 6" round pipe takes up a lot of space in the upper cabinets which are already small. Thanks for any thoughts on this.
I'm renovating a kitchen and will be installing an over-the-range microwave. It's on an inside wall so the easiest and shortest path would be straight up through the attic and out through a roof vent. My plan is to put a 3 1/4x10 to 6" round adapter in the cabinet above the microwave, then straight up into the attic space with a solid 6" round pipe (not flex), then out to a roof vent.
But I live in a place with very cold winters (occasionally down to -35C). My concern is condensation occurring inside the pipe running right back down into the microwave. I will install insulation on the pipe, but not sure if that will be sufficient to prevent condensation when it's that cold? Pipe wrap insulation can't be more than R5-R8 right? Doesn't seem like it would be enough to prevent condensation when venting moist, room temperature air into a frozen attic space. Maybe I'm overthinking it?
I could avoid the whole issue by going out sideways through the cabinetry and venting out the wall, but a 6" round pipe takes up a lot of space in the upper cabinets which are already small. Thanks for any thoughts on this.
I'm having my maple hardwood floors sanded down and refinished. The flooring contractor uses Bona products which I believe are water based. He says to wait 24 hours before putting my furniture back in place which is fine. But about a week after that, I have painters and kitchen cabinet guys coming in and I'm concerned about them scratching the new floors.
I was going to cover the new floor with that Ram board paper stuff, but my painter recommended a plastic weave product which is waterproof with a thin foam backer for impact resistance. Is it a bad idea to cover up newly refinished floors ie. will it interfere with it drying/curing properly?
Building a new kitchen out of 3/4" birch plywood. Doors and drawer fronts will be made out of rift sawn white oak so I'll cover the exposed edges with 1mm white oak edge banding. I wasn't planning to edge band the gable bottoms because they won't be seen, but now I'm re-thinking that. The edges of veneered plywood seem somewhat fragile because the veneer layer on modern plywood is so thin. Do cabinet shops normally edge band the gable bottoms?
Are stone countertops placed directly on top of base cabinets, or does there need to be a layer of plywood or other sheet material installed first? My countertops will be 2cm thick.
For frameless drawer cabinets, is it necessary to have separator strips to cover the small gaps between the drawers? My current kitchen has an edge banded strip of plywood to cover the space between the drawers but I'm not sure that I need to put them in my new cabinet boxes. Doors and drawer fronts are full overlay and the reveals are pretty tight so not really sure if they are worth the extra work. Thoughts from the cabinet pros?
I'm in the process of sourcing materials for a new kitchen build. I want to use 3/4" pre-finished maple for my cabinet boxes with rift sawn white oak for the doors and drawer fronts. My supplier says prefinished maple is not available right now but he can get prefinished birch. Would you consider them interchangeable or should I look elsewhere for maple?
Edit: thanks for all the replies folks. I ended up finding some ElementPly 3/4" pre-finished birch. ElementPly is imported from Europe and appears to be a nice product so I think it will work well for my kitchen.
I've seen a number of frameless kitchens where end panels are being used to create the illusion of inset doors (when they're actually full overlay doors). Instead of being flush with the front of the gable, the end panel is positioned forward by 3/4" to cover the edge of the door and make it look like an inset door. I assume the back edge of the end panel is scribed to the wall. Is this the recommended way to do it these days?
Building a frameless kitchen which requires an angled upper corner cabinet. Gables will be 12" deep to match the cabinets on both sides. But I'm unsure of how to do the angled bit on the front of the bottom and top panels to ensure that the doors line up properly. I'm making the doors myself so I can make the stiles slightly narrower to create the correct reveal. But I want to make sure the front of the door lines up with the fronts of the doors on the adjacent cabinets. I've seen some where the angled door doesn't sit flush (either too recessed, or sticks out too far).
The linked screenshot shows one way of doing it. It shows the front edge of the gables beveled back at 45 degrees and a 90 degree support structure added to the inside edges. I've seen others where the gable fronts are just cut square and the inside edges line up exactly with the angled front surface of the top/bottom panels. Seems like it would work well, but wanted to check with the pros before proceeding.
Edit: couldn't get the screenshot to attach so used an Imgur link instead.
Building a frameless kitchen which requires an angled upper corner cabinet. Gables will be 12" deep to match the cabinets on both sides. But I'm unsure of how to do the angled bit on the front of the bottom and top panels to ensure that the doors line up properly. I'm making the doors myself so I can make the stiles slightly narrower to create the correct reveal. But I want to make sure the front of the door lines up with the fronts of the doors on the adjacent cabinets. I've seen some where the angled door doesn't sit flush (either too recessed, or sticks out too far).
The attached screenshot shows one way of doing it. It shows the front edge of the gables beveled back at 45 degrees and a 90 degree support structure added to the inside edges. I've seen others where the gable fronts are just cut square and the inside edges line up exactly with the angled front surface of the top/bottom panels. Seems like it would work well, but wanted to check with the pros before proceeding.
I see most people go with cabinets at least 24" deep over the fridge. The front of my fridge is 33" from the wall (not including handles) so I was thinking about going 28-29" deep to make the front of the cabinet as accessible as possible. There will be a full height/depth end panel on the left to support the cabinet and a wall on the right side. I have to cut the wall back so the right hand fridge door can open fully so I'll cut it back to the same depth as the end panel on the left side. I drew it up in CAD and it looks ok to me, but wondering if there are any gotchas to doing a cabinet this deep. I was thinking I could bring the back panel in to make the cabinet interior 24" deep.
Edit: thanks for all the great tips on this - much appreciated.
I'm working on cabinet designs for my kitchen and I'm at the point of sourcing hinges and drawer slide hardware. I've used Blum soft close hinges before but the mounting plates are typically intended for mounting with #8 wood screws. I'd like to install my plates using the 5mm system holes. I've done this before using standard Blum hinges but had to drill out the mounting holes to accept the larger screws.
What would be the best Blum clip-on hinge for full overlay doors which would allow mounting to 5mm system holes without modification? Any opening angle between 105-120 would work fine. I also like the Inserta feature for screwless mounting to the doors. Thank you.