u/Sir_Maxelot

A little update on my Begadi Pit Viper trigger project.
In my previous post I showed how I reduced the hammer hook engagement from roughly 1.5 mm to 1.0 mm using small brass shims as a sear stop. The original sear engagement angles were left unchanged.
That pretty much eliminated the noticeable creep, which was already a massive improvement. However, the trigger still didn’t feel quite right.
There was about 1 mm of take up before reaching the wall, but the movement felt slightly gritty and uneven. Not exactly scratching or binding, more like a series of tiny bumps in the trigger pull. The break was good now, but getting there wasn’t as smooth as I wanted.
So I took the entire trigger mechanism apart again.
This time I polished the trigger bow to an almost mirror finish using a Dremel, a felt wheel and Autosol.
I then gave the contact areas of the leaf sear spring a similar treatment.
After thoroughly cleaning everything, I reassembled the mechanism with a very thin film of LS differential oil, which I’ve been experimenting with as a lubricant.
And wow, what a difference.
The trigger pull is now incredibly smooth and consistent. Almost all of those little bumps have disappeared. There’s still a noticeable first stage, followed by a fairly distinct wall and an extremely crisp break with no perceptible creep.
I honestly didn’t expect polishing these relatively simple contact surfaces to make such a dramatic difference.

It’s getting remarkably close to the match trigger feel I was hoping for when I started this project.
Still, the difference in trigger feel is pretty remarkable, especially considering that the polishing work didn’t require any expensive aftermarket parts. I didn’t even touch the sear geometry or adjust the leaf spring (yet).

The video shows the trigger pull from start to finish in 240 fps. I applied steadily rising pressure until the hammer falls. It shows the well defined wall and very clean break with minimal overtravel

Part 1:
I’ve always been a sucker for a really crisp trigger. Minimal take up, a well defined wall and a clean break with as little creep as possible.
I recently got myself a Begadi Army Armament Pit Viper and while I’m pretty impressed with the gun overall, I wasn’t entirely happy with the trigger.
The hammer hook measured about 1.5 mm in depth, which seemed excessive to me. The trigger wasn’t terrible by airsoft standards, but there was definitely some noticeable creep before the hammer dropped.
So I started playing around with the hammer and sear geometry to see what I could improve.
Rather than shortening the hooks or messing with the actual engagement surfaces, I decided to try something different. I cut two tiny strips of brass and glued them onto the hammer just below the hook, essentially acting as a stop for the sear.
This reduced the effective engagement from roughly 1.5 mm to 1.0 mm without changing the geometry of the contact surfaces themselves.
And honestly, the difference is pretty remarkable.
The creep is virtually gone. There’s a nice, defined wall and the trigger breaks incredibly cleanly now. It’s actually pretty close to what I was hoping to achieve.
I find it fascinating how such a tiny change in geometry can make such a noticeable difference in trigger feel.
Obviously, this is still experimental. I have no idea how well the glued brass pieces will hold up over time, and I still need to make sure the reduced engagement doesn’t cause any reliability issues or hammer follow.
The last picture shows the modification under magnification.
I’m curious if anyone here has experimented with Hi Capa hammer and sear geometry. I’d love to hear about your experiences, especially if you’ve managed to get a genuinely crisp, almost match grade trigger out of one of these things.

I am checking qc pics out of interest and sometimes you‘ll catch curiosity’s here and there.
I like current VSF GMT‘s, however the cyclops has always bothered me. The are over polished around the edges and distort a lot what’s underneath them. Once the white of the date disc touches the edge of the cyclops they would develop a white „smear“ that just looks so much worse than a gen crystal. The second pic shows this type of crystal.
Today I stumbled over a qc pic from a stock VSF (1st pic here) that is just perfection. It’s optically identical to genuine, it’s not over polished and maybe the ar coating has a slightly different hue to other VSF crystals. The glue seam (important detail) looks good as well. This is the very first time I saw that and I am as excited as it gets.
We have always agreed on VSF making the best rep crystals, but there was still plenty of room for improvement. This new crystal completely eliminates the need to spend 400-500 € and install a genuine crystal. Ironically this watch is a 6W0 serial, which I thought was superseded by 6X0, however it’s in Pingfan‘s current qc gallery, so it’s an up to date batch from VSF.
I found this very interesting and wanted to share it with you ✌🏻

Full rebuild coming soon. Forcing 3.75 bar boost in a stock engine maybe wasn’t my smartest ever idea 😂

Is everyone excited for the weekend?

I‘m printing for almost 10 years now and have had several different printers. I have never given up on a filament, but I am very close to.

I bought several Kg of Sunlu PA6-GF25 and all parts literally look like crap. I‘ve tried:

-drying the absolute hell out of it
-running almost every calibration (flow ratio, max flow, temp, pa, retraction, etc.)
-resetting printer and software to factory spec
-trying different spools

The parts always turn out as in the picture. For a sanity test, I swapped my good old PA6-CF in place with the exact same gcode file and the result was perfect immediately.

Is there anyone who had success with a similar filament?

Printer: K2 Plus
Slicer: Creality print
Filament: Sunlu PA6-GF25
Nozzle: 0.4 mm Obxidian @305°C

The current batch of VSF GMT Masters II comes with flawed bezels that have 6 and 18 mixed up. I wish that was a shit post 😅

Please be aware and spread this information, because this will potentially cause a lot of trouble