u/TheLastRole

Almost three half empty boxes to send something that would perfectly fit in one of them.

• En 2025, cada persona que realizó horas extra no pagadas trabajó 5,6 horas semanales de media sin remuneración. Esto supone un coste laboral no abonado de 141 euros semanales, equivalente a 7.355 euros anuales entre salarios y cotizaciones.
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Fuente: CCOO

I’m chasing a high idle / hissing issue and I’m out of ideas.

Warm idle sits around 1200–1400 rpm, even with the idle screw fully closed. If I blip the throttle, it often hangs at about 1400. Throttle cable/linkage doesn’t seem to be sticking.

There’s a loud hiss/whistle. I first thought it was around the throttle body/AAV area, but it seems loudest around the airbox.

So far I’ve tried:

- smoke test and no obvious leak

- spray test without clear rpm change

- new 12 mm AAV hose

- pinching some AAV/vacuum hoses: no obvious result

- ignition timing roughly set to Euro spec, 10° BTDC with vacuum disconnected

The engine starts and runs, but idle/mixture adjustment is a mess because I can’t get the idle down. Also, the fuel distributor is a replacement unit, so mixture is definitely not factory-set anymore, although I did a basic CIS reset following the manual.

And this is what some people consider radical-left…

I'm rebuilding the head on my ’79 924 NA. The head had new valve guides installed and the valves/seats were refurbished at a machine shop. I’ve also installed new tappets and a used camshaft that appears to be in very good condition.

The problem is that I’m nowhere near the valve clearances specified in the manual, even with the adjuster screws backed out as far as I think is safe.

Current cold clearances:

L1 Intake: 0.05 mm

L2 Exhaust: 0.13 mm

L3 Intake: 0.00 mm

L4 Exhaust: 0.13 mm

L5 Intake: 0.00 mm

L6 Exhaust: 0.00 mm

L7 Intake: 0.00 mm

L8 Exhaust: 0.30 mm

My first question is about the adjuster screw position. Right now I have the screws adjusted so they engage the second threaded section inside the tappet (roughly one turn into the second thread). See photo 1. Does the adjuster screw need to engage both threaded sections, or is it acceptable to run it like photo 2, where it only engages the first threaded section?

My second question is about machining the adjuster screws. The screws have become very expensive and one of mine is already the thinnest version (no marks), while two others are the next size up. Even so, several valves are still effectively at zero clearance.

Has anyone successfully machined/grinding the adjuster screws to recover clearance after valve seat or guide work? If so, how much material were you able to remove safely?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Diferente agenda...

Quick update from my previous post: first of all, thanks to everyone who commented last time. I followed some of your advice and used a grinding stone (400), making crossed and lubricated passes with no pressure.

I tested the flatness with a straight edge (DIN 874), and it's perfectly flat on all measured points (<0.04mm / 0,001 inches).

None of these marks catches a nail, and it feels kind of rough to the touch.

I'm also attaching a picture of the head gasket the car uses.

I'm still worried about the black zones and some of the marks around the Cylinder 1 edge.

What should I do next? Send it or keep lapping?