u/TheSnotHog

1964/5 house build. Just moved in and doing some remodeling work. Until now I’ve always thought my wall insulation was a little suspect but had no easy way to confirm. This past weekend I pulled down some Sheetrock and this is what I found. I did some googling and cant find much info other than this looks hopelessly under whelming for a 2x4 wall.

What options have I got? The house has brick on the outside so can’t easily rip it off to do something, so everything needs to happen from the inside. Besides ripping all the interior sheetrock off and putting in R19 or rockwool, what other options do I have?

I thought about cutting a hole in each stud bay and blowing in insulation but that’s a lot of holes to cut, blow in, and patch again.

What’s your thoughts?

I’m no expert, but apparently the guys that did the install year ago are. Both lines sets in a single piece of insulation?

Doesn’t that kind of defeat the purpose. 😅

And it’s all getting new insulation as soon as I get a gap next week. Well, the cooling line will get insulated.

1965 house that has had some funky repairs done in its life. This is the floor joists under the kitchen. 2x8 spanning 14 feet. Originally I was planning to sister in new joists but I’m thinking it may be easier and better to just remove the old joists and put in new joists. I’ll be putting in 2x10 that I’ll notch on the ends to fit into the existing locations.

The reason I’m thinking to replace the joists instead of jack up and sister in joists is that the current joists are so warped that trying to straighten them out in place may take too long and more effort than it’s worth.

The main question I have is around securing a new joist if I remove the old joist. There is no rim joist on this house as you can see in picture 5. That black piece looks and feels almost like a felt type material on the back of the wall sheathing. I could be wrong and happy for more experienced input. Once I remove the old floor joist, how would I go about connecting it to the current wall sheathing? I have brick on the outside so unable to get it from that side.

Do I just toe nail it to the sill plate and call it good? Some kind of bracket?

1965 house that has had some funky repairs done in its life. This is the floor joists under the kitchen. 2x8 spanning 14 feet. Originally I was planning to sister in new joists but I’m thinking it may be easier and better to just remove the old joists and put in new joists. I’ll be putting in 2x10 that I’ll notch on the ends to fit into the existing locations.

The reason I’m thinking to replace the joists instead of jack up and sister in joists is that the current joists are so warped that trying to straighten them out in place may take too long and more effort than it’s worth.

The main question I have is around securing a new joist if I remove the old joist. There is no rim joist on this house as you can see in picture 5. That black piece looks and feels almost like a felt type material on the back of the wall sheathing. I could be wrong and happy for more experienced input. Once I remove the old floor joist, how would I go about connecting it to the current wall sheathing? I have brick on the outside so unable to get it from that side.

Do I just toe nail it to the sill plate and call it good? Some kind of bracket?

1965 house that has had some funky repairs done in its life. This is the floor joists under the kitchen. 2x8 spanning 14 feet. Originally I was planning to sister in new joists but I’m thinking it may be easier and better to just remove the old joists and put in new joists. I’ll be putting in 2x10 that I’ll notch on the ends to fit into the existing locations.

The reason I’m thinking to replace the joists instead of jack up and sister in joists is that the current joists are so warped that trying to straighten them out in place may take too long and more effort than it’s worth.

The main question I have is around securing a new joist if I remove the old joist. There is no rim joist on this house as you can see in picture 5. That black piece looks and feels almost like a felt type material on the back of the wall sheathing. I could be wrong and happy for more experienced input. Once I remove the old floor joist, how would I go about connecting it to the current wall sheathing? I have brick on the outside so unable to get it from that side.

Do I just toe nail it to the sill plate and call it good? Some kind of bracket?

1965 house that has had some funky repairs done in its life. This is the floor joists under the kitchen. 2x8 spanning 14 feet. Originally I was planning to sister in new joists but I’m thinking it may be easier and better to just remove the old joists and put in new joists. I’ll be putting in 2x10 that I’ll notch on the ends to fit into the existing locations.

The reason I’m thinking to replace the joists instead of jack up and sister in joists is that the current joists are so warped that trying to straighten them out in place may take too long and more effort than it’s worth.

The main question I have is around securing a new joist if I remove the old joist. There is no rim joist on this house as you can see in picture 5. That black piece looks and feels almost like a felt type material on the back of the wall sheathing. I could be wrong and happy for more experienced input. Once I remove the old floor joist, how would I go about connecting it to the current wall sheathing? I have brick on the outside so unable to get it from that side.

Do I just toe nail it to the sill plate and call it good? Some kind of bracket?

I’m about to start a project at home to fix some floor joists that were previously repaired in a really bad way. I’ve read so many posts here of people saying don’t buy lumber from HD or Lowe’s and go to a lumber yard. Well… I’ve called a few today… and either they have little interest in helping me or their prices are 15-25% higher than HD. I need about 20 2x10-16 and 2 x 1-3/4x9.5”-20 LVL. The LVL that HD quoted me is cheaper from HD than directly from the lumber yard.

I’m all for supporting local and not big box stores but what am I missing? Why should I pay higher prices for more inconvenience and needing to drive 20 miles instead of 4.

I’m in the process of planning for a remodel on a new to me home. Was built in 1964, single story ranch style home with walk out absement, to code that was hopefully right back in the day. The floor joists are 2x8 with some spanning 15 feet… we are removing a wall, indicated on the sketch, and will install an LVL which will be supporting the rim joist as well as the steel I beam that runs the length of the home, although offset - again it’s indicated on the image.

My plan is to sister the floor joists that are currently 2x8 spanning about 15’. They bounce bad but have also sagged. It’s going to be a pain as the basement is finished so I need to rip out the ceiling in the basement first. Fun!

Option 1:

Purchase 2x10 and sister them over the full length of the existing floor joists. I’ll jack the existing joists up a first to try and level the floor the best I can without breaking other things, and then sister the joists. I’ll have to cut the ends of the 2x10 to be able to sister in at the ends. I’ll attached with construction adhesive and nails

Option 2:

Sister the existing floor joists with 2x8 using construction adhesive and nails. Again, existing will be jacked up to try level the floor as best we can.

My question is, if I do the sistering with the 2x10, will be stronger/worth it considering I need to cut the ends down to 2x8 sizing anyways to make it fit along the rim joist and steel i beam?

Either way I will be adding blocking once the sistering and jacking up is done. The blocking will be added through the entire house and both sides of the steel i beam.

Open to other suggestions as well. Let me have it.