u/Tricky_Tourist5691

So while a FD-7 has a CR2025 as it's clock battery, I just got a FD85, but I can't find any separate clock battery on it. Does it just run off the main battery, and resets if the main battery is taken out? Or is there some trickery to it?

I do like how snappy the 85 is, writes and reads the floppy much faster than the FD7. The light prism for the LCD is a nice bonus too. Though, the 1.2mpx sensor is kinda "too good" quality? The video quality is hilariously chunky though. It just feels more like a modern device, than this goofy "prototype device" that the 1st gen Mavicas feel like. FD-7 has it's own charm to it.

So I never thought I'd need a Mavica. I did see one a few times when I was in my teens, and pretty sure one of my classmates had a FD5 or FD7.

Just recently someone asked "so what kind of camera is a mavica?" and I was like, "uhh.. they're quirky? kinda fun? (from old memory)"

Then we were like, "how much do these even cost?" and I find that for an european I could just import one from japan for 40euros, so uhh... There we go, I have one now.

Having rummaged through my floppy stash, found a very fitting sacrificial disk for it.

So I guess there's one more GCVideo clone on the market now, or at least I haven't noticed it before.

Anyone got around trying it?

So I happened to notice Giltesa having USB-C mods for SNES, but the site states that it works with standard, non PD power supply, supplying 5V.

But isn't the SNES a 9V system?

Anyone got any experience on these USB-C mods?

So go figure the touch pads are extremely fragile, and when trying to move them apart, they pretty much disintegrated.

But found out that local hardware store sells some copper tape, for out of all things, to repel slugs in the garden. The tape seems identical to what the hispeedido kit has, so I slapped some of that inside the WSC. I did trim them smaller from what they were in that picture, and end result was slightly better than previously. Previously it had stopped responding completely to adjustments, would only bring up the OSD and nothing else. Now I can do the adjustments, but its clear one of the pads is still getting some interference from somewhere and when the OSD is open, it slowly scrolls through the adjustment.

The Hispeedido board has solder pads for Select, L and R buttons, as like some other consoles have for button control. But at least when I tried to wire them up to buttons, there was no response. Who knows if I was just using too heavy gauge wire and the wire ate the signal.

TLDR: Gardening equipment works for console repair.

Have I put them too close to each other? as theyre not that great in response and when I get the OSD open, I can only adjust brightness. Previously could move around in OSD but it recently stopped responding to other than up and down in brightness.

I assume these are measuring capacitance? Would there be any practical way to hook them up for button combinations for navigating?

So is this another vintage console disease to be documented?

I mentioned this already in an earlier post, but thought of taking a closer photo of the lens. Maybe to raise awareness to the issue and possible solutions to it.

I know, there are repro lenses, but I personally havent found their print quality to be accurate to the original.

I've never seen any other handheld have this kind of issue. Wonder what Bandai coated the lens with for this to happen?

I could only think of some anti-glare or oleophobic coating. Or even scratch resistance? The mild pink/purple hue of the still intact coating would hint towards anti-glare.

I will get around trying some polishing compounds on the lens when I find time.

An orange arrived today. To match with the IPS modded blue.

The screen is surprisingly legible, for a WSC. Though, the screen lens has that odd crusty surface. Doesn't seem like dirt, but like some odd plastic degradation?

Makes me wonder if they applied some sort of anti-glare coating on it back in the day? Anyone else have noticed this?