u/TriumphRider99 — reddlx

Anagram and Morningstar MC6 MkII - Help Please!

If any of you have gotten these two to work together, I would appreciate knowing what you are getting the MC to do and what code setup you are using to do that.

I think I am trying to do the impossible. I have 7 blocks in my only custom preset so far, and I only want to turn on/off three of them because I have no use for all three on at the same time.

These are block 3 - Room Reverb, block 4 - Mint Chocolate Chorus, and block 5 - Flamingo Flanger. I only ever use one at a time.

I don't want to have to bend over to turn them on/off manually.

The only other way I can think to do this is to set up 3 different presets with just one of those effects on each one. Not elegant.

Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions.

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u/TriumphRider99 — 4 days ago

▲ 3 r/Darkglass

Current Draw Issue

Hi -

I am an electronic technician (retired) who enjoys making gadgets for music-related activities. I play bass and have had an Anagram for many months now, not quite a year. I read that the Anagram needs at least a 1.7A power supply, and I am wondering why that is.

Several years ago, I built my own pedalboard power supply capable of delivering two amps, and has a volt- and ammeter on the top. I did that so I could see what each pedal was drawing, and it also helps to see if anything is starting to act up.

I stopped using that supply, the enclosure for which is a bit large, when I kept adding more pedals and started running out of real estate. The supply I was using sits under the board, so no voltmeter or ammeter.

With the Anagram becoming more useful, I have been able to eliminate essentially all my discrete pedals, which meant I had enough room to put the original large supply back on the board.

I notice that the Anagram only draws 0.64A, which is nothing remotely close to 1.7A. I am wondering if requiring a 1.7A supply is just DG being conservative or what?

Rather than have a bunch of folks guess, I would prefer to hear from someone from DG to answer this one.

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u/TriumphRider99 — 5 days ago

▲ 65 r/diypedals

Why Not Build Your Own Pedalboard Power Supply?

I am amazed at how many people spend so much money on power supplies. I got some components from Aliexpress: a 9V 3A power supply ($10), a power supply filter board ($3), an on/off switch and some wire. Took about an hour, and now my pedalboard, including Anagram, Shure wireless receiver, Peterson tuner, and Morningstar Midi, are all fed from my hidden power supply that cost under $15 and an hour of my time. Power supplies are very simple devices and not costly to make. Seems to me that companies that make them are greedy and depend on the ignorance of their customers.

I've been in electronics for over 60 years, starting when I was 16. I am now a retired electronics tech who discovered pedal building about 3 years ago. I was in a duo with a guitarist. He only played rhythm so I started playing a lot of leads, and wanted to fill out our our sound, so gradually I added a few pedals.

Then I decided to start building them myself, and built most of the pedals that I have now replaced with the Anagram. I also built my own supply which lived on the board. But now, with the Anagram taking up room and my wanting to put more stuff on the board, I thought I would move the power supply to underneath the board.

At first, I was concerned that my current supply didn't have enough capacity, so I opened it up and found it could deliver 3A. The Anagram only needs 2A and everything else draws way less than an amp, so my 3A does the job. All I did was remove it from the case, and mount it underneath. Used double-sided tape and a sheet metal screw to mount the power supply itself. Used wire ties to secure the wiring, and added an inexpensive on-off switch. Didn't take an hour.

For goodness sake, if you have enough skills to make your own pedals, you have way more knowledge and ability to "build" (more like assemble than build) your own supply and save hundreds of dollars by doing so.

u/TriumphRider99 — 13 days ago

▲ 6 r/amplifiers+1 crossposts

Help Wanted - Basic Op-Amp Test Circuit

I use NJM4250d (a single audio amp) through-hole op amps to build bass preamps. I've built over 100 without a single failure. Recently, I had to change suppliers. I did the research, they had the certifications, and I bought 60 of them. Then I ordered circuit boards from an offshore supplier. You can see where this is heading.

I built 12 preamps over the course of 3 days. None of them work. Signal arrives at pin 2, pin 3 gets half of Vcc. Runs on 9V. Nothing comes out on pin 6. The gain is supposed to be around unity.

This has never even come close to happening before. The circuit hasn't changed and the components I use haven't changed since the last dozen I built. The only thing that has changed is the source of the chips and the source of the circuit boards.

I build and repair, but I do not design. It would be great to have a simple circuit to test the op-amps. I have breadboard equipment and vero, not that I use either very often, but I do know how to use them. The simpler the circuit the better.

Help would be very much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

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u/TriumphRider99 — 20 days ago

▲ 88 r/BassGuitar

NBD My First Schecter - Corsair 4 String

I recently bought a 4 string Schecter Corsair semi-hollow. Got a super deal from GC of all places! I'd never even picked up a Schecter before. Bought it before playing it entirely due to a LowEndLobster review. I've never been a fan of EMG pickups, but the TB (Thunderbird) soapbars really sound nice, along with the EMG electronics. I gave it the all black "murdered" look. Plays great, nice weight, nice neck.

I put DR Black Beauties on it, and it plays and sounds very well indeed.

I was going to put Hipshot licensed Ultralites on it, but the price has gone WAY up since the last time I bought a set, so I went a different way. The bass has no neck dive, so I bought a set of Guyker ultralight lookalikes. One Hipshot licensed Ultralite cost more than entire set of four Guykers, which feel and work just fine.

The bridge and tailpiece were another story completely. I could not find a black bass Tune O Matic, so I had mine powder coated which worked just fine and probably cost less than a black bridge/tailpiece if I could ever find one.

Black Dunlop Straploks of course.

This is also the first all black bass I've owned. I've defretted and upgraded SBMM Ray4s and 5s before and always gave them the murdered look before selling them, but never kept any of them. This one is definitely a keeper.

In the past, I've had several Jack Casady Signatures, but as much as I loved them, they just weren't that versatile. It does one thing very well, but the Corsair has a very wide tone palette and does a lot of things well, albeit a few hundred dollars more than the JCS.

My rig is a Trickfish Bullhead 1K into two Schroeder 1-12s and a 2-10 (not pictured). The board is simple - Shure wireless, Petersen strobe tuner, Darkglass Anagram, DIY power supply (two isolated outputs, 2A each). I just got the Anagram expression pedal and Behringer volume pedal, hence not hooked up yet.

The monitors are JBL 4312s. Those were found in almost every professional recording studio from the late 60s on. They are still making them today - the 4312G. A mere $2600/pair. I found my pair about 20 years ago for $800/pair. Speaking of keepers...

u/TriumphRider99 — 2 months ago