u/Unable-Alfalfa-2124

Does anybody have any experience with a 110-120 hp ecu flash on the spark trixx 900 ace? I have a 200 hp model that has 185 psi if comp, and it’s in rlly good condition, I have a stainless wearing and new impeller, but wondering if it is actually worth it and a noticeable difference, I mostly do wave jumping and wheelies and tricks, not as much too speed, but looking for holeshot. TIA!

Looking into custom fabbing modular adjustable sponsons for a spark or just any jetskis in general. Not gonna show the designs or the mounting setup yet, but do you guys think that there is a market for this. Ik it’s niche, but so is trim X and they are doing alright😂. Ideally it’s quick connect and then you can change them to do fast or quick or sharp turning or skipping. Thanks!

So I have the wowgo 2s max with the 120mm cloud wheels and they are awesome, but my board is on stock battery and motor and esc and remote and I have 3500miles on it, it’s a lil clapped, and one of the hub motors won’t spin but will get power once the board gets going. This is the hub model. The wheels only have 500 miles on them are are in great shape, so like I want to buy a new board but keep the wheels, is there any chance I can do that with another wowgo board that is ideally updated. If not I’ll just buy another 2s max but like I want a better one ideally. Thanks!

I'm 17 in highschool, I got around 100k saved but like only 10ish is liquid, rest is tied up in stocks, not daddy money, I save and am cheap and made good money during covid on stocks and work 40 a week. I am mechanically inclined and very hands-on, and I'm looking to buy a house to flip, but what's the smartest way to do that, besides car insurance, and gas, and phone bill, I only spend 50 a week, that covers food w friends (Costco food ct cuz im cheap and somehow got a membership) and cloths and toiletries and personal stuff.I bring in around 900 a week while also in highschool, and will be getting a credit card the minute I turn 18, and just put a 15 a month I have on their to “speed run” my credit score. Car is an oldish Accord paid cash and I don't have any loans or anything. But I wanna get a house soon, like one to flip, Ideally around 200, dump 50-70 into it, and keep profit. What's a good way to do that without getting shafted by a loan and stuff. Also I would do all labor and construction and remodeling and plumbing and electrical myself. I am aware that I am new and that it might be best to ask others for help to show me how to do stuff and that will also cost money for a general contractor, I might go to collage and get a degree from cc for 2 years then go to a uni, I have good grades and got a scholarship so tuition at a uni would like 4 a year or sum actually insane cheap to live on campus. Wondering the best way to do this. Thank you for the help! Also I prolly might hopefully have salary job of like 85+ lined up with a shop after uni if I can get a 4 year, so like thats also somthing to factor of why I am going to college. TIA!

edit im 17m in the Midwest of America for location purposes, also it’s not daddy’s money I mowed lawns 8+ a week in middle school w a push mower to get money and took a gamble on carvana stock in mid 22 and it payed off, if your gonna talk abt daddy’s money imagine im 30 with the same skill set and worked at a gas station and lived w my parents until now, im looking for advice not people dissing on me for not being broke like most high schoolers. Im asking for help on the subject rather that people hating. Thank you for your time

Final question: what is the best way to go abt buying a house and then selling it? I imagine I would want a loan on the house while still being able to dump liquid into immediate supplies for the house. I’m fine with selling stocks out of my brokerage, but u refuse to touch my Roth, and i don’t have a 401k cuz I’m a minor I just still want a decent cushion for right now. Timeline is like around next 2 years and hoping to take about 1-2 years for a flip. But ik the sooner the better for loan numbers and interest.
Breakdown of my finances
10 in car and 90s jetski and 90s snowmobile
10 liquid aka SPAXX
34 ish Roth
55ish in FZROX but that fluctuated ofc

Thoughts on a Spark Trixx 90 hp with the following mods. It currently is 1 owner and has 180 Hrs. I was thinking of doing the mods when I replace spark plugs and oil change as the hull will be split.

- 110hp ECU flash
- Trim X
- Intake grate
- Free flow exhaust thru hull

so i have a 787, i bought it with a locked motor, a bolt fell down the carb throat and it pinned the bolt against the crankcase, it didn't split it at all tho. i pulled the engine, tore it down, and then i removed the bolt it spun free after that, i replaced the battery and starter and it spun freely, i still had to tune it, and when i did, it ran, after that, there were air in the gas lines, i pulled the fuel filter, new gasket, cleaned it, and it fixed my issue, along with all new fuel line clamps. the engine is brand new 2 hours on it from the prev owner, so i also ran 50:1 in the gas premix along with the oil pump, good idea i found out, as the prev owner didn't hook up the coupler for the oil pump, once i got it hooked up and the coupler installed, and got the old gas out and brand new rec gas in, new plugs, and carbs and oil pump all in factory spec. it still wont start, seems like its flooded with oil, so i pulled the plugs and fired her for a few min, until all the oil i could get was out, but it still wont start. it will crank, catch, the puff smoke out the exhaust then die. anybody know my issue, is there anything i need to do, i use NGK solid cap plugs, i use BR8ES plugs, brand new, the plugs seem wet, but not entirely oily, low speed idle is 1 and 1/4 out, high speed screw is flush, and the idle screw is flush then 1 1/4 turn in, and oil pump is lined up to its idle tick perfect. any advice? its got strong spark, new starter xps 2t pwc oil, fresh rec gas, cleaned carbs with all new gaskets, new battery, all new top end and bottem end gaskets, new exhaust gaskets, and new rotary disc, any help would be greatly appreaciated. also i got the ski for 700 so not too bad of a deal. TIA it has 152 psi and 151 psi of comp in the cylinders, and strong spark!

The new spark x 1000ace is 110hp, will there be a flash aftermarket to unlock 120-140hp? Just in theory? Wondering if I should buy the X or just tune my spark trixx?

Looking fir a single curved monitor, and j will have one also vertical for text and other stuff. Looking for a curved 34 inch, ideally non oled due to price, and then over 120hz, and ideally 1440 or similar higher resolution. Budget is 350-400. Ideally I want the 34 for more real estate for parts and such. Thanks!

Looking fir a single curved monitor, and j will have one also vertical for text and other stuff. Looking for a curved 34 inch, ideally non oled due to price, and then over 120hz, and ideally 1440 or similar higher resolution. Budget is 350-400. Ideally I want the 34 for more real estate for parts and such. Thanks!

GPU: AMD RADEON 7900Xt

CPU: Intel Core Ultra 7 265KF

MEM: corsair vengance 32gb 6000mhz

Cooler: ARCTIC Liquid Freezer III Pro 360 77 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler

MOBO:Gigabyte Z890 EAGLE WIFI7 PLUS ATX LGA1851 Motherboard

PSU: Montech CENTURY II 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply

Storage: 2 TB samsung SSD,

CASE: Montech TG3 ATX Mid Tower Case

i am getting all of this for 1800, its for beam solidwokrs, fanuc, and running very basic local llm.

all for 1800 bucks, is this a good deal. the guy is building it for me and benchmarking it all. is this a good deal? On pcpartpicker it was 2600, wondering if it’s good?

GPU: AMD RADEON 7900Xt

CPU: Intel Core Ultra 7 265KF

MEM: corsair vengance 32gb 6000mhz

Cooler: ARCTIC Liquid Freezer III Pro 360 77 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler

MOBO:Gigabyte Z890 EAGLE WIFI7 PLUS ATX LGA1851 Motherboard

PSU: Montech CENTURY II 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply

Storage: 2 TB samsung SSD,

CASE: Montech TG3 ATX Mid Tower Case

i am getting all of this for 1800, its for beam solidwokrs, fanuc, and running very basic local llm.

all for 1800 bucks, is this a good deal. the guy is building it for me and benchmarking it all. is this a good deal? On pcpartpicker it’s 2600 so is 1800 a good deal?

GPU: AMD RADEON 7900Xt

CPU: Intel Core Ultra 7 265KF

MEM: corsair vengance 32gb 6000mhz

Cooler: ARCTIC Liquid Freezer III Pro 360 77 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler

MOBO:Gigabyte Z890 EAGLE WIFI7 PLUS ATX LGA1851 Motherboard

PSU: Montech CENTURY II 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply

Storage: 2 TB samsung SSD,

CASE: Montech TG3 ATX Mid Tower Case

i am getting all of this for 1800, its for beam solidwokrs, fanuc, and running very basic local llm.

all for 1800 bucks, is this a good deal. the guy is building it for me and benchmarking it all. is this a good deal? On pcpartpicker it’s 2600 so wondering if it’s a good deal? Thanks!

So I have 96 Spx 717, I was up north on a lake, left for the weekend, and didn’t come back for 2 days, left my ski floating anchored in front of our cottage. Came back 2 days later, and ski was completely sunk, once I retrieved it, the vts boot had failed, and water was up to the top of the seat line in the hull. Pulled plugs, drained water, new battery, siphoned old gas and put new j there, new plugs, and fire right back to life. Threw some marvels mystery oils in there and seasfoam, and put abt 15 hrs in it in the past week, did a compression reading, and was reading 150 both cylinders! 717 on top! So reliable! These things are truly beasts! I left the seat cover off it and it’s been drying out the entirety of last week in the sun! But these things are so durable. I am just personally shocked how there were no electrical issues yet😂. I’m sure there will be some, but it’s so far been insane! Any other experience like this with others?

Hello everybody, so I have a 1995 seadoo xp 717. It’s in very good shape mechanically, good comp, bearings are all good, wear ring is good, carbs are clean. But I have a problem, no spark. And also it won’t crank. It also has a bad ground somewhere, when I use the multimeter, I had a -.8v loss from my battery to the ground, and because of that, it is throwing the ski into security mode, so then no crank and no spark, even when I jump the solenoid. I have replaced a lot of components trying to find out what it the issue, I have replaced the following, mpem, ignition coil, plugs, boots, wires, starter solenoid, rectifier, stator, temp sensor, battery, main ground to block, and scuffed up all terminals. And still I am at a loss of why I have a bad ground, I feel like the ground is causing my mpem to freak into security mode, and then it doesn’t wanna work, cuz my ski died in the middle of LM, when I was at WOT, and the battery was fine, I replaced the stator, and the old one was good. What should I check, I don’t even know what I should be checking for rn, even when I hooked up a ground from my battery to my main ground in the electrical box, it still wouldn’t work, it would just beep louder, it’s 3 beeps when I press the safety tether in, an the it beeps when I crank it, and then when I stop it beeps 2 times after. Any help would be appreciated, thank you!

Ski ran fine, then died in the middle of Lake Michigan, battery was fine, but no spark, replaced rectifier, mpem, ignition coil, wires, plugs, boots, and start stop button, and safety tether kill switch. Still no spark, but cranked just fine. Decided I was done w it so I pulled the engine and replaced the stator, stator looked in pretty good condition, but it was the oem one that came original in 95. Threw everything back together, and now it won’t crank. Battery hooks up good, no sparking there, dash lights up, and speaker beeps forever when plugged in, when I try to crank it, the speaker stops beeping, and the area between the electrical box and the starter, so the port side of the ski, makes a little click/thunk sound when I press the starter, figured it was the battery, so I tried to jump it, same thing, tried a new battery, also same thing, then I checked all grounds, battery to block; good. Starter lead;good, mpem lead; good. Idfk what it would be? I hope it’s not the starter solenoid, buts because when I pulled it it would crank for hours if I needed it, it wood crank for over 15 sec if I needed it to, but the ski almost always started after sub 2 sec of cranking. What should I check? Continuity between everything? Voltage going to starter? Plz help. TIA!

hey guys, i have a 95 xp 717, and it has no spark, i bought it and another 96 spx for 2k this winter w a trailer, and the spx is running perfect, so now ofc mine has to have problems, there is no spark. Comp is 145 and 147 in the cylibnders, so pretty good, vts works, all guages work, carbs i removed and cleaned, when i had her wide open on lake michigan on glass i was doin 52 my gts said, so it runs good, and i also replaced wearing and impeller, re greased driveshaft, got a rebuild kit for it, replace most gaskets for top end, like water jacket seals/rings and exhaust manifold stuff, all new fuel and oil lines, cleaned fuel tank, I only run rec gas, and I upgraded to iridium plugs. but now there is no spark, i grounded the plugs, and still nothing, cleaned all contacts for ground to the block, and all the terminals. i replaced the rectifier, ignition coil, plugs, boots, wires, and the entire MPEM, and still no spark, i also unplugged the start stop button yellow and black wire to see if that was the case, and still nothing. I am guessing i will have to replace the stator, but my question is, before i pull the engine and shi, is there anything other i have to try, i also cleaned and replaced the poin connector for the stator big 4 pin plug, and that was good also. i dont wanna pull the engine, but i also want to get it running as soon as possible. thanks!