u/Voodoochild1974

Hi

I got the 65" C6 about 2 months ago (all up to date), and I am running into something that is very annoying.

Basically, if I use my PC and run it at 165 Hz, it messes with the other HDMI ports. So when I turn my PC off and switch over to the HDMI I run my Panasonic UB820 through, I get a black screen, but I get sound. The odd thing is, if I go back to the home screen and look at the "Recent" window, I can see my player working (showing the film), but when I click on it, it's a black screen again.

I TRIED

5 HDMI cables.

TV reset.

Player reset.

All the HDMI ports.

Running directly to the TV and trying to run it from the AV.

Many, many settings.

THE ONLY FIXES

Unplug the HDMI and move it to another HDMI port (every time this happens).

Unplug the TV for 10+ seconds.

Hold down the power button on the remote for about 15 seconds, then turn the TV back on.

Leave the TV off for at least one hour.

I would like to think it is software, but after looking online, this seems to have been an issue since the C4, and the word there was don't run 144Hz; use 120Hz.

Hi

So, I had the C9 years ago, and that was a good tier for its time; it just seemed to do everything and work as intended. I then moved on to a Samsung S95D, which was amazing for TV and movies, but with PC, it sucked. In the end, I gave in and went for th LG C6, and I was instanly happy I had gone back to them, it was just a better TV....until I hit this issue.

If I play on my PC and run it at 165 Hz (I have an RTX 5090), all is good, but when I turn my PC off and swap to HDMI 3 to watch a 4 K film, I get sound but no picture. If I go to the home screen, I can see in the bottom left "recent" screen that the film is playing, but if I then click on it, it's a black screen. (You can swap to TV to watch something and back again, but that does nothing; it's purely an HDMI issue)

The only things that fix this are swapping the HDMIs over (until the next time it happens) or unplugging the TV for 10 seconds and plugging it back in.

I did see someone online say the black screen issue has been around since the C4, and that if you run your PC above 120 Hz, it can happen.

Did anyone find a workaround?

Hi

I have had a few DualSense controllers, which I use on my PC, but this new one from Amazon has two things that stand out. One is that the board says "unknown" in tests, yet everything else works/looks as it should. The other is that the grip pattern does not look clear. It's not the best photos, but I don't know if it's just a drop in quality, legit, or yeah, they are not as clear as they should be.

https://preview.redd.it/yul5qpn5f48h1.jpg?width=2296&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a49cd3b5a11a4fa7a1db8390f1d7c5df0c8442dd

https://preview.redd.it/hma0xpn5f48h1.jpg?width=1716&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b8f3747ef21d67239ee45617ceef8467ad717cac

https://preview.redd.it/j995apn5f48h1.jpg?width=1428&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=57a54558b753056a83f57c02a3e8d19009159207

Hi. I got two Dualsense controllers last week from Amazon. I checked both boards online: one is B060, but the other says unknown. The code on the back starts with E6. Anyone got one?

Ok, this is probably pointless, but hey, sat at home and nothing else to do (as such)

Anyway, I hurt my arm at work lifting a box, which I have lifted a 1000 times before and was only around 12kg. It was a "oh that hurt" pain, but nothing to write home about. The same random pains you get now and then at my age (51)

Luckily, it was the end of my shift (I am a baker), so I went home and just thought it would right itself in a few days, probably just pulled something.

Short version is it got very painful indeed the next day, and I went to A&E. The Doc there said it was possible ligament damage, but to see my own Doc. After seeing my doc, he said a rotary tear, because it ticked all the boxes. Hard to move it/lift it/support weight/restricted movement.

A few weeks went by, and the pain dropped. I went back to see the Doc, and he was still thinking rotary tear, but the pain was dropping, and my arm in front of me (as long as I did not raise it) felt normal. The only issues were at shoulder height, and the more my arm moved out to my side, the worse it got.

A few more weeks later, I went back again (still off work) and explained that because I needed to do stuff around the house, I decided to vacuum, and when I went to pick it up (7kg), I could hardly lift it if my arm was slightly to the side, and definitely not if it's out by my side. One foot in the air was the max, and it did not tickle when I tried.

This time, he said maybe frozen shoulder, so I started moving it more, and sure enough, I got all my movement back, well, 95%. It's a bit uncomfortable, but I can now reach as I did...however, since then, the strength in my arm has dropped, and I cannot get that same vacuum two or three inches off the ground. (FYI, I did this just a few times, now stopped. I try; I normally use lower-weighted stuff to check if my arm is any better, around 2kg, and that's once or twice a week, but most of the time I just hold my arm out to see if that's even an issue)

I saw my Doc again, and I am now waiting on a scan, but my question after all this is, can it still be a rotator cuff tear if I have a full range of movement (with very little pain) but am unable to lift weighted items once my arm starts to move out to the side?

Thanks

Hi

I had the G7 Pro for months with zero issues on my PC, and when I saw the 8K, I had to have it 😄

The two issues I have with it are.

1. The dock never lights up. It will charge, but no matter what you do, it will not light up. (yes, tried every setting)

2. I get random lock-ups. Just playing a game, and the pad locks up, so I have to turn it off and on again.

I fully uninstalled the G7 Pro and Nexus and installed Connect for the
8K. All the firmware is up to date. The dock is V1.3.0, and the
controller is V2.1.0. Connect is V1.11.3. I also tried resetting it, but it's still the same.

Bit of a let down seeing as the G7 Pro was issue-free on my PC.