▲ 2 r/komoot

Komoot pop up remains active in iOS hours after the ride was ended on Garmin and saved

I’ve had a number of problems with Komoot (on the Premium thing just now to see how it goes). One in particular is so annoying (for me). See screenshot of the top of my iPhone screen added in post below.

Every time I start a ride using the Komoot ‘app’ on my Garmin, and then finish it in the same way, then saving it (then Garmin connect then doesn’t thing and distributes it to Strava etc), I’m left with Komoot constantly running in the background (it shows as a permanent banner at the top of the iPhone screen) Other than just finding my trial and deleting it, is there a known fix for this? Or is it a known bug?

For what it’s worth I’ve tried:
Reopening Komoot on the iPhone and force closing it. Made no difference.
Force closing it and then switching the phone off and on. Nope - it’s like Japanese knotweed - you can’t kill it.
Tried serious things like Bluetooth off and on, multiple phone off/on, even more Komoot shutdowns.

Notes
- during one of these I did get asked to fill in some info about the ride in the app. Weirdly way later than the ride had already propagated elsewhere. Did that. Thought that might ‘tick a box’ in the software but no - still have the pop ip.
- the Garmin has been switched off properly for a couple of hours now so it’s not connected to that anymore.

While I’m at it - I’ve been using it to follow other people’s routes and it’s been good for that compared to Garmin routing. Somehow the prompts are more intuitive for me. I like that you can download ‘areas’ of maps and then delete when you don’t need them anymore. I’ve found routing to be better that Strava though even Komoot still throws in funnies like insisting you go round three houses on a path when you’re in a 10 miles cycle path just because it’s found a bit of path it can call ‘gravel’.

So - overall it seems pretty good to me so far. I’m just worried about the software side of things. It feels like the Komoot ecosystem can’t handle its integrations. (There was another scenario as well a few days ago and I’ll try and remember what that was. That required an iOS app uninstall reinstall and authorisation again to Garmin. Was something to do with Komoot just being blank on the Garmin screens

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u/Warm-Marketing-8171 — 6 days ago

Loctite (Green) question

Hey. I have a carbon road frame with a three part metal ‘wedge’ system that’s used to tighten the wedge up against the seatpost and hold the seatpost in place.
My understanding is this is common for road bikes.
(Context is years if maintaining my own MTB’s, where I’ve never had cause to use Loctite (bolts that benefit from it often come with blue pre-dried on, and set post clamps are collars and I’ve never had a bolt ‘undo’)

So - after a few rides, every ride, then wedge bolt unwinds itself. If I’m out long enough I’ll eventually get seatpost movement. Often on shorter rides, the presence of friction paste and the wedge staying in place means no issue but the bolt is backed off.
Such a pain when I do get movement as it’s a carbon piston and it’s causing wear in the surface of the post where the wedge ‘indents’ (for want of a better word) are being rubbed back and forward on the post when the post rotates slightly.

Took it to shop as the whole wedge thing I didn’t know what to do with.
They left the wedge in place so as not to upset the current setup / saddle height etc and took the bolt out. Rather than trying to clean it they used a brand new bokt (fine by me) and applied green loctite to it (stronger then blue in the hope it would work).

If I read too much on the internet my bike will now melt, self
Destruct, delaminate and various other bad things.

Anyone got any specific knowledge about this stuff and whether I’ll have any issues taking the wedge and post out in future? Specifically whether that loctite will cause the wedge parts to jam together or bind to the slot in the frame the wedge sits in?

Ta.

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u/Warm-Marketing-8171 — 13 days ago

iPhone and 1040 (no PC) map issue

Ai summaries of questions about mapping suggest that Garmin haven’t allowed a link from iPhone to Garmin to upload the map for your region.

Some direct searches seem to throw up confusing posts about there being different Europe zones but I can only see one ‘Europe’ in System Map Manager (though weirdly
theres then another list of maps inside each activity profile which does talk about Western Europe)

Is there a simple way to get the Europe Topoactive map uploaded to a 1040 Solar?

1040 Solar tried itself for an hour over WiFi and then just hung/crashed. It gives me the option for Europe and in fact thats (all of Europe) is the only option available in Map Manager

Tried deleting the existing Europe map and starting again but that’s just left me with nothing in the UK now 🤣🥴

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u/Warm-Marketing-8171 — 19 days ago

Add new M.2 2280 SSD to Prime Z890-P

Hi.

PC upgrading question … used to be a bit of a builder 10 years ago but have stuck with builds from UK build companies in the last decade so a bit out of touch with the latest standards and drives.

I am going to add a second m.2 SSD to my motherboard.
I’m sitting with the manual, and have the Crucial P310 ready to go.

I’m just a bit hesitant right now with the manual which seems to be taking about “M.2 rubber”, Q latches, screws, and anchor pins. Single sided (or not). And Q-Release vs Q-Slide.

And the pictures in the manual don’t look at all like my SSD. Manual screenshot attached and mobo layout screenshot attached.

I thought I’d ask as this all seems a lot more complicated than simply throwing a SATA drive in and attaching power and data 🤣🤣

I’m currently sorely tempted to make a bunch of assumptions ..

  1. All the pictures are maybe assuming a heatsink but I won’t have one as this is a secondary drive and I didn’t buy a SSD with a heatsink. So I can ignore all that stuff.
  2. I think I can also ignore whatever the M.2 rubber is … can I? Not entirely why, or what its context is … I’ll be googling that soon

So - then 2 the question about where to put it. Can i just put it in an accessible slot (slot 3) rather than slot 2 (covered by the GPU) or should i remove the GPU and use slot 2? Are these huge GPU’s easy to remove and replace?

  1. Looking at the mobo I think I simply slide the ssd in to a slot at an angle like used to do with older components .. and I think use some screws that Scan sent me with the PC to ‘stand off’ the SSD and also to screw it down?

That was a long question for a simple SSD.

u/Warm-Marketing-8171 — 3 months ago