A few days ago I pedalled and suddenly found that my bike wasn’t moving.
I think something has broken on the cassette. Could someone please advise what to do? It’s a 5 speed cassette, of which I’ve found another online. (Make and model on the inner ring at the start).
I’m unsure how to replace as I can’t get the remaining part off the wheel.
Been trying for hours to remove these forks from this bike. Got it on marketplace and want to completely redo the frame color and I just can’t figure out why this won’t come off. Any tips?
So, i found a deal on FB marketplace, the listing does not state that it is an aluminum frame, but it looks like it is.
The question is - is it worth it to buy a bike in this condition, and does it need repairing to do some casual riding on weekends.
The price listed is 550€, i have no idea of the precise model of the bike, but the listing states that it has hydraulic brakes and shimano tiagra shifters.
I fell, my seat is kimda messed up Any ideas how to fix it would be appreciated
Sorry for my ugly feet.
I got this crackling noise coming out of my crankset.
I greased pedals, pulled crank left arm and greased it, same as all 4 chainring bolts. Last thing is Bottom Bracket?? I ordered parts to remove it but maybe there is a smaller fix that actually could work. Maybe it’s not BB.
That sound was very rare before last weekend. I cycled and I got caught up in rain, after that sound has increased by a lot.
Appreciate help in advance!
I’ve recently brought a boardman slr 8.6 road bike and it’s stuck in gear there’s less tension in the right shifter compared to the left , changes through the gears on the left fine just not on the right any ideas what kinda repair I’m looking at
Hello everyone,
I need some help setting up my hydraulic Shimano XT brake (2-piston system). My current problem is that I cannot get the wheel (with the brake rotor) back into the frame/fork because the brake pads are sitting too close together.
How it happened: My brake was rubbing slightly, and I wanted to adjust it. Unfortunately, I accidentally loosened the wrong bolts on the brake caliper. As a result, a large amount of mineral oil leaked out, and I suspect some of it might have contaminated the brake pads (though I'm not entirely sure).
Afterward, I refilled the system with mineral oil because the bite point was completely gone. While refilling/testing, I pulled the brake lever as a test—however, the wheel was out at that moment. It seems the brake pistons extended way too far and are now stuck in that position.
My questions for you:
Thanks a lot for your help!
Setting up my son's first bike (never had one myself).
The right side of the back break seems to be stuck against the wheel. When I manage to give it space, adjust the wire and tighten it back in place, it looks fine but once you break, the same side gets stuck against the wheel again and I can't seem to stop it from getting stuck without the break failing.
Any suggestions?
Hi,
There is a slight play in my aerobars, as you can see in the video. I just added pieces of tire inside the shims to protect the aluminum. However, even when tightening harder, I still have this issue. What should I do?
I am really to good at this... LOL
It's locked in super hard, I can't hammer it or use my force.
The only last thing is cheater bar on the 36mm wrench now. :(
It could be permanent? :(
AND YES,,, There was play between the crank and washers, the Crank arm can rotate, it wasn't pressed up against the washers... Have to clear this up or Mr 20 years experience will have a field day on me for this one. LOL
But this washer hack is WAYYY to good.
I used the crank ring of the bike to clamp the washers to hold the 36mm wrench in place. HEHE /chefskiss
This cost 1$, 50C each washer. LOL
This is WAY to much fun.
I'm sorry this is some Sheldon Brown 2.0
So 36 mm wrench and pin span couldn't turn either.
All other parts were VERY VERY easy to remove, crank arms, ring, bolt nuts etc.
I sprayed W-D40 into top bottom left right teeth, banged on it in all directions with socket wrench to ding it up to try and loosen it.
And it seems REALLY REALLY locked in. not a movement with so much pressure, the pin spammer was bending, so can only go so hard with it, and tons of my weight on the 36 mm wrench.
How bad can this be? (Is the frame toast if I lose the cup and cones, bearings over time?)
Is there ways to get these out? like machine them out with metal cutting, how expensive?
Or is this just maybe locked up hard and needs just a little more pressure, like hammer on the 36mm wrench just to edge it? Just that little bit to get the rotation started? (smack a hammer on the 36mm wrench)
Worried this will end the frame after the cup and cone and or bearings go over time.
The crank arms are showing a LITTLE play, not a lot, but I just discovered this play and wanted to lube and tighten, then discovered this issue.
Let me know what you think, options etc.
Thank you.
I don't know how to find the right replacement part, or how to do the replacement. If I know the part, I can probably find a YouTube video on how to do it. I learn well by watching. I got it used and don't know much about bike repair but am open to learning.
Update: I ended up getting another bike that was nearly brand new, and my parents bought my kids new bikes so I didn't have to worry about fixing up ones for them lol. My father also helped me with the repairs because my right hand is very weak ATM from a torn ligament a few months ago so I couldn't do jack lol.
Hey everyone,
My Maven ultimate caliper is leaking brake fluid and I’m trying to figure out what’s causing it. The leak seems to be coming from the caliper itself, not the hose connection. I already checked and tightened all the bolts/screws, but it’s still leaking. Braking power also feels weaker after riding for a bit.
Has anyone had this happen before with Maven brakes? Could it be a piston seal issue, a cracked caliper, or something else? And what’s the best fix — rebuild, new seals, warranty, or replacing the caliper entirely?
Any help is appreciated.
Was going to pump my bike, and one of the valves wouldnt take air. Screwed the top completely off to see what was up, and as soon as I touched the tip of the valve it blew off, emptying the tyre.
Tried to press/rotate it in, but theres no tread or anything. Is it possible to stick it back on? or do I have to replace the entire inner tubing?
Chain is wrapped through frame after jump…
So lets have experience/knowledge sharing about what works best with wheel building lubricates/locking spokes and nubs.
I read you can use White grease, oil, purple lockite, and Boiled Linseed Oil.
My goal is to make nubs easy to turn for putting the spokes back, then to lock up so they don't vibrate lose over time riding. but obviously not tight where they are hard to turn to tru again if there is an issue moving forward.
What is not only going to do that, but is also simple?
Is purple lockite the best, seems the simplest, you buy spread, build and it stiffens and your GTG for a good while???
Oil grease stay slippery, and Boiled Linseed Oil takes lots of unnecessary work and dangerous from the flammable issues with rags. Where purple lockite has no overhead.
Lockite I can do in my room if I wanted, Boiled Linseed Oil needs a garage with fresh air and boiling apparatus.
And maybe use oil with Q-tip on the nubs to rims so they are easy to start off and the oil will evaporate pretty fast, like on a few rides? this with the main option also?
What you say?
Any ideas what this noise is coming from rear wheel? The hub is tight no wobble on the rear wheel, don’t think it’s coming from the bottom bracket, it seems to be random when it comes on and goes away?
I purchased this bike from amazon. The wheel hits the pedal and makes turning physically impossible. Did I build it wrong? Did they send wrong parts? I am new to this so I don’t know what to do!
Solved: they shipped it with the fork backwards. Thanks y’all!
